[model murdering]

Ya got both feeders on the same side (lane).

One needs to be outside and one needs to be inside.

Both common shunts must be snipped. The feeders must be opposed to separate the supplies.

 

[model murdering]

Thats a confusing mess.

Take the tape off.

#1, Both terminal tracks must look like the one at the bottom of the first photo.

Get that far please.

Standing by ...

 

[model murdering]

No sworries Ken. Bob and I have been through this a number of times over the years.

Slotbob:

As I suspected, the terminal in question, no longer hidden by tape, is not snipped the same as the other, ergo you cant use our mirror image terminal trick to simply power each lane.

We gotta add lib here, in order to get Wiliy going! Im pretty sure I'm on it, but a dyslexia check on me sure wouldnt hurt.

***

To fix:

Number pin sets pictured 1-6, top to bottom.

#1 gets power supply
#2 is not used
#3 gets a controller
#4 is not used
#5 gets a power supply
#6 gets a controller

Note: Ordinarily the common shunts are cut between the inside and outside lanes. We do this so we dont have an open shunt flapping around underneath, requiring insulation, and less intuitive wiring to be sorted. Spot welded shunts are more reliable when they are short/firm.

Please let us know how you progress Willy

 

[model murdering]

Did you follow the instructions in post 20?

 

[model murdering]

The power and controller can be interchanged if desired.

To change the car's direction of travel, reverse the power input.

 

[model murdering]

The first gen Aurora and AFX Russkit style controllers feature screws too Bob. A hair smaller in stature than the conventional Parma wand, but the same shape/profile. Blues were 80 ohms. Yellows were 60.

Like any vintage piece you have to hunt and peck, but they're still out there.

Taking the Eli Whitney out of components began the mechanical devolution. First the controllers, then the cars (MG+). We'll be dropping that little finger off soon.

Viva "Takeapartable"!