[X2slotbob]

I am still waiting to see how the lower, "good" terminal track works on it's own. Maybe Jana can help...? 👩‍💻

 

[cbwho]

These posts remind me of the Mash episode where they must disarm a bomb by cutting the red wire... No wait the blue wire!!

 

[cbwho]

Wiring diagrams won't help...

Let's go to basics. The green is the common that goes to both lanes.
The red is lane 1.
The purple is lane 2.

What want to do is isolation and the common needs to be reworked.

 

[cbwho]

The horizontal red line needs to be cut.
The red jump needs to be popped free with black tape as an insulator.

Above, the red lines need to be snipped.

On the top track in your photo, you'll have to solder in a new wire or buy more track.

 

[Willynjana]

Sorry for delay, working through the first scenario.

The first one isolated power correctly.

lane one powered only lane one
lane two only powered lane two

however lane one was powering the car backwards.

Two steps forward, one step back.

Again, your patience is a virtue gentlemen!

 

[Willynjana]

Also during all this i looked for another 15 inch terminal track which i thought i had.
I have one and it has not been altered. If needed I could work with that one if we wanted to.

Jana enjoyed your support! As a nurse manager of 60 nurses right now she might enjoy the change of pace!

 

[Wicker Bill]

I looked at what you did and at a terminal strip picture on the net. It should work. Apparently it now does.
Switch the two wires at your power supply on the lane that is going “backwards”.

 

[X2slotbob]

"lane one powered only lane one
lane two only powered lane two"--WnJ

Great! Did the "problem" ever make itself clear to you?

 

[Willynjana]

In the end both lanes still power each other. So I'm thinking i try using the terminal track that I have and make the snips recommended above.

Before i do that I just want to confirm: On the cuts that cbwho notes in his photo - in essence those would be the cuts to be made for the top track in my photo and leave the bottom track alone?

 

[X2slotbob]

Have you ever removed the top terminal track to see what happens to the "inside" lane (ie, the bottom terminal track) when run by itself, please?

IF that works you could make a second identical piece and flip it around to power the other lane.

BUT, so far, your stuff looks like it should work and I do not understand why it does not. None of the posts give me a clear shot at why, or what else to do.

However, I confuse easy.

 

[model murdering]

Did you follow the instructions in post 20?

 

[Willynjana]

I removed the top 15 inch section and replaced it with a 15 inch non terminal track.

the inside lane is powered, by itself. As soon as i put the car on the track it is powered even with no controller trigger pulled. If i pull the controller out of the socket the car is not powered.

 

[cbwho]

In the end both lanes still power each other. So I'm thinking i try using the terminal track that I have and make the snips recommended above.

Before i do that I just want to confirm: On the cuts that cbwho notes in his photo - in essence those would be the cuts to be made for the top track in my photo and leave the bottom track alone?

Correct.

 

[X2slotbob]

Are we all to assume that your power supply is wired into the same two terminals as the original power pack?

Just because there may be too few inputs for Willy...have we checked across the controller terminals with an ohm meter to make sure they are not shorted full time?

 

[model murdering]

The power and controller can be interchanged if desired.

To change the car's direction of travel, reverse the power input.

 

[X2slotbob]

MMs diagram is the same as the above. And he is correct, reverse the power to the bottom two pins and the direction of travel will reverse.

The deal is...the controller resistor goes between the pins denoted by the red arrows and should complete the circuit ONLY when you squeeze the trigger. It should have NO continuity--and NO power-- when the controller is released, and increase in power as you squeeze the trigger and resistance drops until you reach wide open, when it is close to nothing.

If the car is wide open when you plug in the controller, for some reason, the controller may be completing the circuit. Have you checked across the controller pins with the trigger released with an ohm meter (set to "ohms") to see if you have continuity? Seems like you do, and you shouldn't.

This is a set controller and has only two wires, correct?

 

[X2slotbob]

ps-"The power and controller can be interchanged if desired."--MM

That also is correct, of course, but nonetheless, the conclusions in post 36 remain the same.

Willy, please check the controller at your convenience & get back.

 

[Willynjana]

Ok so when i use a different controller the automatic power situation stops.
So in essence that controller is "completing the circuit" i believe. I will stop using that one as we proceed.
If we're all down for it how about i snip the last terminal track I have to match the diagram drawing.

 

[X2slotbob]

YAY!

Essentially make your new one match your existing terminal track in post #36.

Snip with confidence, sir! ✂✂✂

 

[X2slotbob]

ps--for giggles, before you make the new one you could test your "good" controller(s) with your earlier attempt, making sure that the strips do not contact the rails that they pass over (cardboard underneath?).