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I am new to the "slot car" obsession. I just finished an 8X16-4 track sport layout. I am looking for the best way to secure the track on the plywood without damaging the track. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your help
Chris
 

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DT
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Hi Chris, welcome to the Forum.

Check out this thread and see how I started out.

I'm going to use a bit of silicone out of a tube to stick some sections that won't lay flat. You can pull the plastic off the plywood once dried later if you want.
 

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Chris,

Welcome! I began by using caulk as well, but switched to hot glue around the mid-way point of being done. I'm talking the kind that comes out of a craft-type hot glue gun. I found it setup quick and was easy to manipulate.

Have fun!
 

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Never having done it, I am interested in the hot glue method. I would imagine it to be more effective in pinning track down quickly and evenly. But if you do decide on a change later, how easy is it to peel off again?
 

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Brian Ferguson
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Some thoughts on:

Hot Glue: There are different types of hot glue sticks. Use the general purpose type (common craft sticks). Some other types can be very hard to remove (impossible from wood) and may etch into the edges of the plastic track. The general purpose variety will just peel away if you tear up all or part of track later, although it may still be impossible to remove from bare wood. Hot glue is a simple, and very fast method. Oh... and keep the gun tip away from the plastic - it is hot enough to melt it - don't ask how I know...


Silicone: Most, but not all, silicones will easily peel away from plastic once it is cured. Secure glued sections with weight until the silicone sets up. Allow it to cure for 24 hours before doing further work around the glued areas. Clear silicone is my choice - even if you tear up the track and a little remains on the edges, you won't see it. Silicone has the advantage that it remains flexible and will allow the track to expand and contract a little with temperature/humidity changes.

With either method it is always best to experiment on a scrap/spare piece of track first.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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Just to add a bit: the hot glue will be much more easily removed from a wood base if you paint the wood first. Then, at the worst, it will pull off the paint during removal rather than the surface fibres of the wood. Depending on the specifics of the glue, you may just be able to peel the glue off with no damage or residue at all!

I'm not trying to sway anyone either way - just point out that there are advantages and disadvantages to both methods.

Or... (where's the tongue in cheek icon?)... go out and buy a good router...
... speaking of which, sounds like Inte is catching the bug...
 

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I'm blaming Grah1, Mickl and Mr Slottech himself. oh and junior racer!


now, how to scav a good peice of wood and not be noticed.. hmm theres enough lead and wood in the garage at the mo.. with a bathroom suite as well but nevermind that.. use the bath as a water splash! way hey!

Rob.
 

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How come nobody mentioned those clips scaley sells for attaching sport to a table?
That was supposed to be one of the improvements, sport vs classic, ease of attaching to a board for a permenant layout.
 

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DT
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QUOTE (VOA @ 1 Jan 2004, 08:55 PM)How come nobody mentioned those clips scaley sells for attaching sport to a table?
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In the link to the other thread above, I explain how I used the clips.

I still will silicone the track in places as the clips are only 70% OK. The plastic has a way of working itself out of those clips. They are good for getting everything to line up properly in the fist place.

 

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Using hot glue on a painted board gives you plenty of opportunity to change your layout, its cheap, keeps the rattle noise down, and secures the track (Scaley Sport, don't know about the others.....) fairly well
happy racing
 
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