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Traction magnets for440x2

7.1K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  model murdering  
#1 ·
I have mostly 440x2's running on my old Tyco Pro track I brought back to life. I have a few cars who struggle mightily staying on track in one particular curved section. Trying to figure out what the issue is, track design, the car, combination, etc. I have changed up and put new tires on but still coming into the same situation. I almost have to come to a complete stop on that section (and it's only happening in one on the lanes). So, my next try was to look at the magnets. Are there are any out there that are more powerful than the factory issued ones in there already? Or any other suggestions.

As I mentioned, it is only happening in one of the two lanes. I have replaced some of the track pieces there thinking that possibly there was something wrong with a track section, but still am having the same issue. So, I thought I would try working on the car side of it, which is why I replaced the tires and am looking at maybe getting stronger traction magnets if that is possible.

Thanks.

Mike
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
Do they spin out? Roll over? Jump the pin out and follow it?

What kind of tires did you put on and what is their diameter?

Are there some body styles that "make it" while others do not? If so, if you switch the bodies does that "fix" the problem?

When you run your finger over the rails at the connections, are they smooth? In particular is the "second" piece higher than the first?

Do all drivers have the same issue?

Now, the reason I ask is that stronger magnets will very likely give the cars that have them an advantage over the others, and also very likely wear out the armatures sooner. Additionally, as they will require more amperage, if you are running one stock power pack they could cause the "remaining-car-flys-off-after-the-other-deslots" issue to become worse. And of course there is the expense...

Maybe we can find the solution without resorting to magnet changes.
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
It would be better to know what the cars are doing in that curved section. Does the front end come out or does the car want to hang out the tail?

Polymer traction magnets are available for these cars from Scale Auto/BSRT and Viper Scale Racing. In my experience if you put polymer magnets in a Tyco 440X-2 the car bogs down and the motor gets hot. The car would be much easier to drive, but the lap times would probably go up unless the track was nearly all corners.

You mentioned that you had changed tires, what tires did you use?

With cars that use magnetic downforce you can increase that by using smaller diameter front and rear tires. Since the amount of downforce is proportional to the square of the distance between the magnets and the track rails even a small change will have a greater effect than you would expect. You would want to get the car as low as possible without actually touching the rails.

There is a trick that you can try, the downward travel of the pickup shoes can be restricted so that they do not drop lower than the bottom of the tires when you lift the front of the car off of the track. That is done by bending the front end of the shoes backward at the top of the windows. If the front end of the car starts to come out of the slot in a corner the shoes will lose contact with the rails slowing the car enough to save you much of the time.

If you do try stronger traction magnets there are two grades available, go for the weaker grade magnets. Grade 10 magnets are the stronger ones.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
"There is a trick that you can try, the downward travel of the pickup shoes can be restricted so that they do not drop lower than the bottom of the tires when you lift the front of the car off of the track. That is done by bending the front end of the shoes backward at the top of the windows. "--Rich D

Yep, that is a good trick indeed. I have done it so long I forgot about it! In fact, it very well may take care of your problem itself.
 
#5 ·
Any luck Mike? I always love the Magic Eightball diagnosis game!

When the obvious is exhausted ...

As the problem seems centered around a particular chassis, I'd check the guide wear on that chassis, as well as the slot on the end of the section before the offender section. Also check that the slot depth is consistent through the entire area in question, to determine that the guide isnt bottoming out and fractionally lofting the chassis. Sectional track shrinks and warps in the weirdest places. Sometimes the quirky issues are a combination of things.

Pull the pinion gear on that chassis, so you can finger roll the chassis through the problem area. By removing the armature clunking around, it will help get your fingertips some added feel as your fishing around for a glitch.

Aside from the obvious and the not so obvious, I've always found the 440's to have some excessive overbite on the shoe geometry. How about a pic of the offender chassis' bottom?

Bill
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
As Mr. Bill mentions: "Sectional track shrinks and warps in the weirdest places. Sometimes the quirky issues are a combination of things...[for instance, check to see if] the slot depth is consistent through the entire area in question, to determine that the guide isn't bottoming out and fractionally lofting the chassis."

Have also come across this problem along the way. Usually sliding a folded piece of sandpaper across the bottom of the groove between sections will provide the fix. Care needs to be taken to keep the sides of the slot crisp and perpendicular to the track surface. Along the way have used jeweler files, razor knives, even a soldering gun tip to convince the track to do what I want it to.

The nice thing about slot car racing is that although electric, it is one of the few things left that is not electronic. So you can typically find and fix the "problem", as opposed to the mysteries of failed computer powered anything, including 1:1 cars.