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Hi guys, this is probably gonna sound really stupid to a lot of you. How do you transfer the decals onto the car body? The sheet is from a Hornby static model kit and the instructions says soak for 30 secs before placement. Isn't it gonna be soaking wet when the decals go onto the body? How does it actually stick to the body, I mean is it glued already? Finally, would it look good? (comparing to stickers) Thanks a million!!!!
 

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Cut one decal at a time from the sheet (decaland backing paper) and place into the water (use a saucer or somthing shallow).

The water releases the decal from the backing paper, you then place the wet transfer where you want it and smooth it down. When the water all disperses/evaporates, the decal is stuck to the surface.

It effectively is a sticker of sorts, the benefit being that it has virtually no depth so isn't raised above the surface it is stuck onto.

For a handy tip, add a couple of drops of washing-up liquid into the water. This gives you a bit more time to reposition the decal and smooth it out
 

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I havent tried these decals on slotcars yet, but i remember as i kid making airplanemodels, that you really need pinchers (im not sure if thats the right word - its the thing women uses to pluck their eyebrowse
) to apply them on the surface! Especially if the decals are small.

Morten
 

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And another tip!
Use tweezers, take them out of the water after only a few seconds and let them sit on some tissue paper for another half minute. That absorbs all the excess water, at the same time letting the moisture soak right through the backing paper, so that the decal doesn't float around when you're trying to locate it on the body. Much easier to handle them that way. Use a small, wet brush to guide them into final exact position.

Then there's Micro Sol and Micro Set and all that gubbins. But I expect you're bored now. I am.
 

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Clearcoating is the final step. So you should put the waterslides on before that.
An also very useful trick to get the decals set very well even in really fine recessed areas like
panel lines at doors etc is to use Johnson´s Kleer floor polish or the US pendant FUTURE.
You wipe off the adhesive from the rear side of the watered decal - I do it on the back of my hand -
and put a small spot of Kleer or Future where the decal will be placed in finally. Press it on gently
with a Q-tip or anything else fine and soaky to get possible air bubbles out. Then let it dry for a few minutes.
Take a brush and put a really thin coat of Kleer/Future over the decalled area then oce more. Not too much.
Let it dry overnight.
DON´T BE SHOCKED BY THE WRINKLING PROCESS YOU WILL SEE DURING THE FIRST HOURS ! This is normal and
will disappear, leaving an absolute even decal that follows almost any recess or excess on the body.
I prefer Kleer because it contains more ammonium, which works perfectly as a softener.
Btw. - I also use Kleer or Future in an airbrush for final clear and high glossy coats. Both products are based on
acrylics, i.e. you give your model a layer of "plexiglas(perspex?" at the end.

Schackel
 
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