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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So?

What do you use?

Specifically, what do you grease your gears with?
 

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Brian Ferguson
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KY jelly!
Just kidding!


Actually, I don't grease them at all. I use a very, very small amount of oil, 10W30 normally, and it lasts a long time before I add another very tiny drop. I use a syringe as an applicator and use the same oil for motor and axle bearings too. I used some special HO oil for my F1 proxy car, but think I'll go back to regular old motor oil in the future as I found the stuff to be a bit too thick.

I don't use grease because it is too thick and imparts too much friction.
 

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I use a very thin coat of Break-Free CLP. After applying the oil I then touch a paper towel to it to wick off the excess. This oil is used for three reasons, 1) There is a case of it sitting here
2) It is thin but clingy without attracting dust 3) It lasts.

I'm always open to suggestions for new lubes though. Unlike Fergy, I occasionally use a VERY thin layer of grease on gears. This is for cars I rarely take apart, like box stock race cars or generic track cars. It is usually a Lithium based grease.

Many swear by synthetic motor oils, like Mobil One. I use it in my real car but not my slot cars.
 

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After years of trying about everything, I now have settled on these:



"GLIDEX" BALL & BRONZE BEARING SUPERIOR AEROSPACE (Mil Spec) LUBRICANT.
This synthetic lube willnot dry in your car's bearings and cause dirt build-up while reducing friction in extreme heat and difficult circumstances. A must for any electric model car enthusiast!

"VOODOO" COMMUTATOR DROPS AND BRAID ANTI-BURN TREATMENT. This
extraordinary lubricant has multiple uses:
-A drop on a motor's commutator gives new power to failing motors.
-A drop between chassis components improves their handling and performance.
-Use for lubricating plastic and metal parts.

I was convinced after we actually did some comparison tests and this stuff made a REAL difference.

Dok
 

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Thanks Mooster!

I see they are 'slick 7' products - which I think I have seen some heated controversy about? Is there a fuss and issues over these products?

or (as is equally possible) am I just getting mixed up?
 

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QUOTE (astro @ 16 Nov 2004, 13:48)I see they are 'slick 7' products - which I think I have seen some heated controversy about? Is there a fuss and issues over these products?
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

There shouldn't be. Rudy Garriga's Slick 7 product line is absolutely the best in the business for the 1/24 commercial racer. I couldn't be without his chassis tongues, machined bronze bushings, and various other bits. Everything he makes is top rate.

http://www.slick7.com/

He has entered the 1/32 arena in the last year or so, one of the few 1/24-focused suppliers to do so. I'm betting his 1/32 bits are as fine as his 1/24 stuff.

I still prefer my combination of 0W20 Mobil1 and Tufoil to his Glidex oil for bushing use, simply because I did have problems with the original thin Glidex formulation when I used it with bushings in severe service. The thicker Glidex II is probably fine, but I'll stick with what works for me.

In regards to lubricating gears, correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't most plastic gears these days molded from self-lubricating plastics?
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Astro, without defaming anyone or company or product or planet or... could you hint at what you mean there?

Are these brews highly toxic? Are they made by orphans in sweat shops deemed unsuitable by Gap or Nike? Or is the theory that they are just WD-40 repackaged?
 

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3in1 with a bit of petrol to thin it down.

I know Parma makes some type stuff which we call "cancer juice" becaue it's pretty fatal if you ingest it, get it in your eyes, breath the fumes... or get it on your skin. Nice... Is this the stuff you were thinking of astro?

McLaren
 

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QUOTE (McLaren @ 16 Nov 2004, 20:57)I know Parma makes some type stuff which we call "cancer juice" becaue it's pretty fatal if you ingest it, get it in your eyes, breath the fumes... or get it on your skin. Nice... Is this the stuff you were thinking of astro?
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am unaware that Parma makes any product that would fit your description. Care to identify just which Parma product you believe has these characteristics?
 

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The name slick7 rang a bell in my head, and I honestly couldn't remember if it was a product some people had reported a dislike for; looks like there is only good thinkgs about this company. I wasn't trying to defame it.

cheers

Dave
 

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I'm almost certain that it's Parma Tyre Goop.

Maybe I exaggerated a tad, but it is carcenagenic (sic?) and advises you to wash off skin immediatly and consult a doctor if ingested.

I'll double check tomorrow evening.

McLaren
 

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Russell Sheldon
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I highly recommend Slick 7 products. Slick 7 Glidex lubricant is great for ball bearings and Slick 7 Voodoo is excellent on braids. I personally never use lubricants on the commutator.

For bronze oilite motor and axle bearings, I recommend Active8, which is also available from AB Slotsport. For gears, you need something with 'anti-throw' properties, like a light grease.

Personally, I use Mura Tiger Milk to lubricate everything!

Kind regards

Russell
 

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hi slotracers new to forum but have just went through reading about grease and oil products, ive used slick7 products for a long time now and have no complaints the glidex is brilliant for bronze bearings but for ballraces i use a mixture of half glidex and half active8 and find this helps a lot as it smooths the oil out and i use it less and voodoo man this stuff is good and ive used it ever since it came out , for my braids and i use it when bulding my motors, when i true my brushes in a turtle i have a small amount in an old tyre tube and put them in it to clean them and then dry them, i also sometimes use a synthetic grease on my gears i cant remember the company name but was purchased for the purpose of lubricating slip joints that need to be dismantled and rebuild as to use.
 
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