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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please guys!!!

Can someone help me??

Last thuesday I bought a Fly Viper Final Edition (y'all know, the white one with the green stripes on). This evening I went to tDI' place, and, after a couple of laps... my 'crowngear' (?don't know the exact name in English?) just broke. The driveshaft didn't reach for the gearing anymore, the whole rear axle was 'clean' of any teeth...

Anyone who had the same problem???
Anyone?????



651rA
 

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YES! I have, but on a FLY Zakspeed Capri - similar front engine setup. Did the propshaft bearing pop out too, because that would soon give the crownwheel a good seeing to!!


Ask Aaron (Gaugemaster Controls) for some advice. I think you should be able to return the car to where you bought it and get a replacement. After all it is a slot car which was not fit for its purpose.


Mark.
 

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QUOTE After all it is a slot car which was not fit for its purpose.

Not quite true actually, it was fit before it broke. One of two reasons would cause this problem:

1] the driveshaft has popped out of its retaining clip, and then connected with the crwonwheel at a mis-aligned angle, or

2] and this is the usual one, you have used the car on a track that has not been set up properly, eg there are either a lot of bumps or, if the track is the usual plexitrack, then the connections where the electrical metal tags are have become bent up. This means that because the Viper is so low to the ground it catches on these, bringing the car to a dead stop for a fraction of a second but the motor keeps turning for that fraction, and so will eventually put so much strain on the crwon it will strip the teeth. You can easily tell if the second is the problem - turn the car over and look at the magnet housing - if it is scratched, then you have problem 2.

Unfortunately, these are not problems which your retailer is responsible for - especially the second instance, as it is 'your' track that has caused the problem.

Aaron
 

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Aaron,

The Viper broke down on my track last night during an Endurace Race... and I can ensure you that there haven't been less bumps on my track then yesterday... this weekend I bought an extension kit to replace some of the older track pieces... The track was so flat as it is ment to be...

The track was in fact so good... most of my cars broke their own lap records...
So I don't think that was the problem...

I think the problem was that shaft popped up... but not out of the clip... and ate the teeth on the crowngear in the next lap...

G.
 

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QUOTE (Gaugemaster Controls @ 30 Mar 2004, 09:26)1] the driveshaft has popped out of its retaining clip, and then connected with the crwonwheel at a mis-aligned angle, or
Indeed this is what happened to my own brand-new Viper at Phoenix on Sat night after running perhaps 4 or 5 laps. Metal pinion hits plastic contrate at misaligned angle - stripped three teeth off.

I should have learned from the Fly Panoz I had where the magnet left its position and locked onto the shaft at it's first run. (Learnt to check first, or learnt to stay away? Opinions may vary...
)

Coop
 

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I must say that I have not had any problems with any of my Fly cars that I use to race. I have approximately a dozen that I race with, in all three configurations and they have all run perfectly. This is after many hundreds of laps each around my 95ft plexytrack in my loft.
It always pays to tape the motors in, and possibly glue the bearings which hold the drive shafts in place, before racing with them.

M
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yep, bearings were glued, the track was perfectly flat and the magnet isn't scratched at all...

Big troubles with a beautiful car.... it's like driving an Italian car in real life...

651rA
 

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QUOTE QUOTE After all it is a slot car which was not fit for its purpose.Not quite true actually, it was fit before it broke.
Thank god for a sense of humour!
This sounds like Irish logic!


There is more than one way in which any product can be genuinely described as not fit for its purpose.
Bad design, bad materials and bad assembly are among them.
This crown stripping problem is particularly common in slot cars of a certain transmission layout - common enough to suggest that one of those three possibilities is the culprit.
Now which could it be . . .
 

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Both of my Fly Vipers have suffered this problem. The interesting thing is on both occasions the cars were running on Ninco track.

When running on SPORT track at home they seem OK. The additional downforce combined with the grippy surface that Ninco track has may well put extra load on the Viper transmission.

I suspect the Viper of Coopdevil also suffered at the hands of a Ninco circuit.

From my perspective the moral of this tale is don't run your Viper on Ninco track if you want the gears to last more than 10 laps!


Moped
 

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Previous to running on Ninco we ran on Classic. Same problems as highlighted. It`s a bad design, lets face it. The strain placed upon small diddy components is too much, they are not manufactured to a high enough quality and need improving. You could take the view that as they are meant to run on tracks they should perform this function without tweeks and tuning but the preparation points we all are aware of are necessary to make this and similar cars work.
 

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I was going to add that the Viper design precedes SPORT track and so it was developed in the days of Classic, SCX and Ninco track. SPORT track has rails that are flush unlike the other 3 mentioned so the magnetic forces on the Viper are going to be less on SPORT circuits.

Ninco track probably has the greatest downforce potential of all but then Ninco cars have lower power magnets broadly speaking to compensate.

Not an issue with Carrera track due to its inherent lower magnetic attraction and no doubt not one Fly Viper has ever suffered in the hands of a Carrera track owner. I was going to say that Carrera track owners possibly don't buy Fly cars anyway but then we have the Americans!


Getting back to 651ra and his Viper what track were you running it on when the disaster happened?

Cheers
Moped
 

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Well, this will out the cat among the pidgeons! When my Zakspeed ate its crownwheel I was running on Slot Tech raceway - routed wooden track with steel braid. The car had never been run on any other track, and I bought it new from e-bay from a reputable seller (It might have been jamesytrainsy who have a high street shop).

Mark.
 

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This very common problem has absolutely nothing to do with the type of track and absolutely everything to do with the design and/or materials and/or assembly of the car. As has been pointed out, it can happen on ANY track -
if the prop shaft pops, then its curtains for the contrate.
I would unhesitatingly take it or send it back.
 

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QUOTE (moped rider @ 30 Mar 2004, 21:58)Getting back to 651ra and his Viper what track were you running it on when the disaster happened?
The track is a normal Ninco track (
) and at home I race on a Carrera track...LOL

But the problem is: the car came right out of the box, on the Ninco track AND it lasted for about 12 - 13 laps.... laps at about 6.0 / sec.
 

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I have to admit that the design of the Viper has always been called into question, as it does have a habit of breaking crownwheels. I have contacted Fly in the past over this problem, and they have been good enough to send me some replacement axles for customers who have had the problem. I will contact them again and try and get some more, and if I can I will send those of you that have had problems a new unit.

Watch this space for news.

Aaron
 

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I too, have seen this on the Fly viper. I remedied the set-up by gluing the driveshaft bushing down. Problem solved. Now if I can find the proper shimstock to keep the tires off the body of my Fly porsches.......
 

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To glue the driveshaft bush in is one solution as suggested but some of us may not like gluing things in as it can then be difficult to remove said glued item in the future without damage to the bush mounts.

Another solution is to cut a section of sprue from a plastic kit and fix it to the underside of the driver tray in such a way that it locks the driveshaft bush in place when the car is screwed back together. Fly could easily have changed the driver pan to accomodate such a locking piece.

This issue also arrises on my Fly Capri and this has less downforce. It has never happened on the MRRC Cobra or any of the Scalextric front engined propshaft cars that I have so it appears to be a Fly issue.

So in the words of Corporal Jones "Don't panic! Don't panic!". Most front engined cars are sound on this issue.

Cheers
Moped
 
G

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Seems to me this is a well none issue with front engine cars for people in the know, my MRRC Cobra popped the rear drive shaft along with Fly; Viper, Marcos, Capri. The problem solved by gluing the drive shaft bearing in with just a small drop under the bearing, makes it easier to pop it out when needed. (never had to after mod)

Could be a good idea when shops, outlets are selling front engine cars is to advise people to do this mod, even if it is the track, car to low or any other reason.

Another tip is to use nail varnish instead of Glue, yes it does look nice with a shiny clear coating!! but it sets quickly and can be removed it with Nail Varnish Remover. Good for axle bearings stops them rotating and motor mounts
 
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