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Graham Windle
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built this on the kitchen table this afternoon as an experiment .
It fits a ninco calibre shell and was constructed with a small 20 watt soldering iron a stanley knife and a hand drill



 

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Graham Windle
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Havent tried it yet John I only did it to show Difflock it was do able I might get him to race it at the club tommorow if Im fit enought to go(got a shocking cough at the moment)
 

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Oi John, I'll have you know that the bus is quite sprightly with its twin motors


Thanks for the offer Graham, I'd love to race it. Might see you Thursday night all being well.



Mark.
 

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Grah1 the simplicity of that would lead me to think I could even manage something like that, any chance you would give detailed instructions including which parts you used.

Looking a some of the scratch cars on here make me drool I would love to give something simple a go.

 

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Graham Windle
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Its as simple as it looks the chassis itself is single side srbp circuit board from maplins its like a resin comosite material cut by scoring both sides with a knife then snapping it off ,the axle brackets are made from the same and soldered into slots then glued on the side where there is no copper ,the axle suports are braced against side impact by puttting a tube between them .you do not need to sink the motor into the chassis as I have the chassis will be stronger if you dont ,I had to add some brass rod round the rear end to make sure it doesnt break,the guide holder is screwed and glued .The body is mounted by wood blocks glued into the shell.
There is no black art to making a scratch built chassis and there are many mediums to work in ,take a look on my web sites they include articles on all types of construction.Pc board is an easy medium to use as is styrene(one of my last yrs alms cars was styrene)
Give it a shot we need more builders


bottomview styrene chassis


top view


finished car with chassis sprayed



finished car in action 2003 ALMS

I.ll have to post a plan
 

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Alan Tadd
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Well Thank you very much Graham!....You've now talked me into spending more of my hard earned cash......

I've ordered the PCB from Maplins and even bought a new soldering iron...!

Next I'm off to the loft to search out some old X-frames and where can I get Foam tyres from?......I haven't bought any of those since 1970....

Good grief, the next thing you know I could be building a Proxy car!....What is the world coming to?...


Regards

Alan
 

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Graham Windle
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4,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
wired and working now its a bit light but some weight behind the guide and in front of the rear wheels will sort that out .
Initial test laps were around 5.6 sec for my 50ft test track on proslot rubber with a standard mabuchi geared 10 -36 so theres a lot of potential .
Come on Beejay youve got till march to enter plenty of time left.
For spongies try SCD Chas will make them to the sizes you require.
I have now used a scaley calibre as a shell on this one as I had a spare but the ninco one looks better
 

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Graham Windle
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4,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Trued up the front tyres(cos they touch and roll on this one) fitted some spongies and the lap times drop to 5.3 .The total weight of the car is curently 89 g I think the gear ratio is the main problem with this car at the moment as it is peaking out to early I will change to a 12 t pinion ,it should improve things. It is not yet on the pace of my world proxy calibre but with a bit of development should do .
 

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Grah1

Thanx for all the information, now I have no excuse I am definitely going to give a scratch build a go.

Thanx again
 

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Alan Tadd
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Well I'm going to have a go at this Proxy thing, so before I start I've got a few questions.

1) I'm going to use printed circuit board for the main chassis.....What solder works best?

2) I haven't got a clue about what type of chassis works best on any of the circuits involved, (but that I guess is part of the fun!). Should I be aiming for a gear ratio of about 3:1 using a 25K Slotit motor and gears?.

3) Any chance of using a Plymouth Superbird body?, or one of the Revell/Hornby kits?

4) Do the front wheels have to be in contact with the track?

5) Can I use the deep TSRF Scalex/fly replacement guide for routed tracks?

Regards

Alan
 

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Graham Windle
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4,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Alan ,ordinary multi core solder will work fine but glue the sides wich arnt copper clad to strengthen the joint

For the first race a t chris's 10-36 will be about right also for the ausi races , for the uk races 11-36 or 12 -36 depending on the weight of your finished car.

Run with the wheels on the deck for Chris's Tripod for ours Ausi about 5 thou clear,

The revell bodys are fine but check the list for others

And the tsrf Guide is ok too ,but I think a jet flag is cheaper and better

Good luck
 

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Please tell me where I can get a leading flag guide in the UK.
Is a jet flag a leading flag guide? Does it have the screw nut, to secure it to the chassis?
Also, I always have a problem, mounting the rear axel to thee chassis? What method do you use and do you have any close up pics?

Thanks,

Lotus
 

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Graham Windle
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Lotus the jet flag is a leading guide and is secured by a 3/16 nut run down the thread ,Chas at scd can supply as can andy at AB slot sports.
Cant do any close ups tonight but the rear axle is located in pillow blocks soldered inti the chassis Take a look on Chris Briggs site he gives a good description on how to do ithttp://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/

I'llpost a close up soon
 

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Graham Windle
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4,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
QUOTE Initial test laps were around 5.6 sec for my 50ft test track

now its down to 4.9 ,I added a little weight behind the front wheels , a little in front of the rear wheels and a touch in the centre all up weight is about 100g now any more and the times start increasing as there isnt really enough power in the scaley motor to propell it with a lot of weight The car really handles well and is well suited to the twists and turns of the tight in field section of my track but is just a bit lacking in straight line performance ,next stage will be to up the motor to something a bit more lively.
 

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Graham Windle
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4,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I need to get this on the club track to get a true picture of its performance
I have lightened the body by grinding the inside as thin as posible.I am still hoping to get a bit more performance before I change the motor but I think it is nearing the optimum set up now,Ill post some pics soon
 
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