[ss67]

I need to re-lay some of my digital track and would like to do a better job of levelling the Scalextric sport track with the digital sections.
There is about 2mm difference in the thickness of these sections so I need some kind of packing/mat that is 2mm thick.

As I would like to do the whole track (over time) I will need quite a large amount so if anyone can recommend a suitable and cost effective material readily available in the UK I would be most grateful.

I have also decided that while I'm at it I'm going to do the laborious job of soldering wires across every track joint for bulletproof connectivity.
So if anyone else has done this and can give me tips they would be appreciated.

Cheers!

 

[Mr Modifier]

Hi Simon,

Are you permanently fixing down the track (sounds like it if you are soldering across track pieces).

If so - are you laying on MDF? If you are you could rout out a 2mm deep slot for the digital track piece. Saves having to put something under every other track piece.

I think that's what I will do with mine - hadn't considered that until you mentioned it - good shout!

Richard

 

[MrFlippant]

I used the paperboard from the back of notepads to pack up my analog pieces, but only right next to digital ones, and the borders on digital pieces. It wasn't enough of a difference to do the entire track, but those spots where short and tall meet up were necessary.

As for soldering the jumpers, I plan to do the same thing soon. I've done it on a set of R2 banks that I keep for temporary tracks, though. Best advice I can offer is to get some soldering flux that you can smear on the metal tabs under the track. Even rosin core solder can be hard to get to stick without a little extra help. With the flux, you don't have to work so hard on getting it done.

 

[varaani]

I've planned to cut pieces of cardboard or plastic/rubber mat under all track pieces and and borders (handmade). Then I'm going to glue borders in place. I'll use 5mm under normal track and 3mm under digital parts. Borders and track piece can stay together when put in storage.

 

[ss67]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Richard - It is permanent and on MDF but I don't want to rout.

Greg - thanks for the tip on soldering. I have used bits of card for packing but wanted something more even so that it is consistent across the whole track.

I was thinking of some rubber matting like Varaani says but would be interested to know what others have used or a good alternative. The rubber matting I have seen isn't cheap!

Keep them coming!

 

[Mark0]

If it's a permanent build why would you do anything but copper tape it? Ends the click-clack, removes the necessity to add jumpers (which you should just wedge spade connectors instead of soldering anyway)....

 

[weetabix ears / daz]

hi if the slot table is permanently based and doesnt need to be moved from situ and you want a level surface you could try self leveling compound but will add weight to table its used on floors as this can be used on wood as its has laytex in it you would need to uni bond the timber first then mix with a drill with a paddle to the required amount of water then pour it on making sure theres no holes for it to seep from it will level it self out if mixed correctly you can purchase 20kg of it for under £10 if you shop around ,ie selco , certain tile shops i think screwfix? not b&q or topps tiles to dear if this is an option and you need more help lmk daz

 

[varaani]

Some flooring materials are cheap, stable enough and easy to cut. I purchased some foam used under laminate floorings. I'm sure there is something similar available in UK. I have it also in my borders. Only the upper layer is made by black plastic and everything else is by "flooring foam".

example:
http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/Accessor...m_Underlay.html

 

[MrFlippant]

In a temperature controlled room, inside a house for example, and out of direct sunlight, I would also go with copper tape.
For anywhere with temperature fluctuations, or if the track is ever in direct sunlight, the expansion and contraction of the track will result in tape breakages.
Also, if the adhesive is not conductive/low-resistance, then over time it will need to be scored and re-scored to get the electricity flowing through the tape again.
I considered tape myself, until I read a few stories about breakages and such. Since my track is in my garage, I've decided against it.
I'm basing all that on what I've read from many people taping their tracks. It works great at first, but for some, that doesn't last long enough to make it worthwhile.

 

[ss67]

Sorry guys if I misled you!

When I said permanent, I meant permanently fixed to the 4 MDF tables that fold up vertically and are stored in a garage!

So coppertape is no good and, as the tables are portable I need to try to keep the weight down. the tables have to be transported in a van with a tail-lift as it is!

 

[Martyn_]

I've been up on my build this evening and I've got rubber matting. It's flat on one side and ribbed on the other, as used for lining shelves in machine stores and in the trays of pro toolcabinets etc. One side effect, it honks to high heaven! Smells like I've spilled petrol and mopped it up with molasses. Euch. I did a comparative test the other day and it makes a huge difference in the sound levels generated. Quite handy when your trying to have a sneaky blast around the track without the missus rumbling you (he posts bravely, as S.W.M.B.O. is looking over his shoulder!!).

It's just right for cutting out under the electronics housings, takes away that annoying step that you refer too, and also cuts down the amount of launches those steps can cause.

If you are careful, I'm sure you could do away with most of the covers that cause the issue. Simple sticky back plastic should suffice. I haven't actually tried it yet, as I've got too many other projects on the go!

Daz, you numpty, here's a bag of punctuation for your next post. ,:![)-,,,,..... Only teasing fella - hope the kids are really enjoying your new track setup, it's looking really good.

 

[UshCha]

What about Correx. This is a very light weight building material that is in effcet 2 mm swuare tubes. very light and quite strong and cheap butsurface finnish is lightly ridged. Thge other option is under floor insulation Depron. This is a close cell foam again very light with a good ssurface finish. Both are available in 2mm thicknesses.

 

[SlotCarDad]

I'm in the middle of a bit of a rebuild and needed something like this. I went to a carpet place and in the remnant section I got a 3 x 1 metre roll of vinyl flooring for a fiver!
It's about the thickness you quote and will do me both as an underlay and as a scenic item as it has a sort of stone flagged effect in black which I reckon I can paint to create pedestrian pathways. It always pays to rummage around in shops where you might not expext to find stuff useful to the hobby.

Dave

 

[ss67]

Thanks all!

I will check out some of the products mentioned.

Snurfen - Where do you get the rubber matting from?

Wondering if this will be any good?

 

[SlotCarDad]

No, it's rubbish and I speak from experience!

Dave