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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

First off, can anybody recommend this chassis and the bodies that are made to fit it (also made by TSRF)? Does anybody know of any bodies that would also fit this chassis and if so, could you list some? I have seen these made by a German company? Di-Tech Production

Ben
 

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Hi Ben

I know that the following bodeis will fit the 1/32 TSRF chassis as I have them on the chassis

Ninco Mercedes CLK
Nino Ferrari F50
And the Fly C5 vette

I have a list of hard bodies that are said to fit the chassis but I can't find it at the monent... I will look and post it when I can find the darn thing....

Chris
 

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YESSS!!!
cars with a TSRF-chassis are much quicker then standard RTR's! But invest the money for the version with Aliminium-hubs - performance difference is significant!
 

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Allan Wakefield
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I agree, they are quicker but I would not recommend them for small home tracks or tracks with standard power (Motor is too powerful and current draw high). Nor are they much good on Old Scalextric or Ninco in whatever guise they are bought (ground cleararance is too low)
It is also true that the 1/24 chassis are much better than the 1/32 counterparts.

Mr Max, for home use and at the price they are I think you would be dissapointed for a homeset car.
 

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Swiss has a good point the Falcon motors are to mush for most smaller home tracks..... I use mine on a 42 foot..... 4 lane routed track and the stock motor is just too much and over powers the track....... BUT you can take a Pla-fit Fox motor and it is a drop in replacement for the falcon motor......

But they can be run on the ninco/scalex tracks... yes they are a but low, to get better clearence you need rear tires that are .830 to .850.. the .850s will work best...

and here is a list of 1/32 bodies courtsey of the TSRF site...... there may be more bodies now that will fit, this is a older body list........

1/32-Scale

Fly bodies
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Chrysler Viper (front of steel pan should be shortened)

Porsche 908, 908/2, 908/3, 917, GT1, GT1-97, GT1-98, Joest-Porsche

Lola T70

Ferrari 512 S

Lister-Jaguar

Corvette C5R

Saleen SR7

GB track bodies
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Porsche 917 PA

Porsche GT1

Lancia Beta Turbo

Ford Capri Turbo

Chevron B16-21

Ninco Bodies
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Callaway Corvette

BMW LMP

BMW "M" Series

Many others

Carrera bodies
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BMW LMP

Panoz

Pontiac GTO

Chevrolet Camaro

Dodge Challenger

Many others

Pro-Slot

Ferrari 355, 360

Porsche GT2, GT3

Alfa-Romeo sedan

I also have seen the Scalex NASCAR bodies mounted on these chassis.....

Chris
 

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Quick question while we are talking about TSRF chassis....

Is the chassis metal or plastic? Because it looks like (and feels like) metal to me, but a few people are always protesting that it's plastic...

McLaren
 

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Brian Ferguson
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QUOTE Is the chassis metal or plastic?

Both.
The pan portion of the chassis is metal, the center section is plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cheers guys, I would be running them on a Scalextric Classic track that has superb conductivity but it isn't perfectly flat so I think the TSRF car would bottom out. They are quite pricey, so I dont think I'll bother, thanks anyway.
 

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Hi Mr. Max,
First, the TSRF car was designed to run properly on ALL tracks at the notable exception of the Scalextric "Classic" and its clones.
The car runs nicely on Carrera, Ninco, Revell, Fleischmann, Strombecker, Atlas, K&B, Aurora, Monogram... It still amazes me that Scalextric kept their 1957 design for so long when it is obvious to anyone having had any of the other tracks that the Scalextric Classic is indeed an inferior design. However, it is also the most popular due to Scalextric's survival as the leader in the home racing slot car hobby since 1957. The TSRF was not ready to compromise its design to adapt to an antiquated design, and the cars run just fine on the updated Scalextric "Sport" track on which many (but not all) of the inherant design flaws were corrected. Eventually, the "Classic" will go away as more people are replacing their track with the superior "Sport" model.

To run satisfactorily on a Scalextric "Classic" track with a TSRF 1/32 scale car, you will need the following:

-The guide blade must be shortened to accomodate the very shallow slot of the Scalextric "Classic" track. A quick snip of the blades. bottom with a bit of a radiusing of the front of it takes care of this.

-If run with a traction magnet and since the track rails are raised 25-thou" (WHY ???), you want to apply a piece of black adhesive "electrical" tape on the bottom of the chassis to avoid that the traction magnet enters in contact with the rails and causes a short. All my cars are setup this way anyway in case of poor track fitting.

-It is preferable to use slightly larger rear tires for the same reason. Indy-Grips makes a new tire for the TSRF chassi that gives more clearance without compromising the fitment of bodies.

-If run with no traction magnet, the Ortmann tires or PPR tires are a must and it is wise to slice the guide blade a bit to allow the car to drift more without the blade binding in the slot. A new system is being introduced in two weeks at the iHobby Expo in Chicago.

-The car's handling is not affected by its wheelbase because the guide lead remains constant, so a NASCAR Ford will run as well as a DTM with shorter wheelbase, once the balance is adjusted with lead weight. So feel free to run the body you like. Some are better than others: example: on the same wheelbase, the FLY Viper is a toad while the GB-Track Porsche 917 is a winner.

-The motor is quite powerful but as said above, can easily be replaced by a milder "Fox" or any FK-sized motor, and there are plenty of models available. The car can be sold without the motor if requested.

-Once this is done, I doubt that any other production car could keep up with it, but this is not what it was designed for: indeed its smoothness of operation and utmost reliability and quality control insures that you are hardly going to encounter mechanical problems with one.
The TSRF is a car you can "feel" almost as well as a pro-racing slot car, and believe me, there is a HUGE difference between a regular "plastikar" and a TSRF.

-In the USA, the complete chassis with motor cost the same as a Scalextric RTR car. Without the motor, the price drops to $36.00 US dollars, leaving plenty of room for a Fox motor and a body. In Yurrup, no doubt that prices are higher due to the usual import duties and the need for distribution. The same applies in reverse for the Euro slot cars in USA.
Regards,

Doc Pea
 

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Allan Wakefield
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QUOTE If run with a traction magnet and since the track rails are raised 25-thou" (WHY ???), you want to apply a piece of black adhesive "electrical" tape on the bottom of the chassis to avoid that the traction magnet enters in contact with the rails and causes a short. All my cars are setup this way anyway in case of poor track fitting.

-It is preferable to use slightly larger rear tires for the same reason. Indy-Grips makes a new tire for the TSRF chassi that gives more clearance without compromising the fitment of bodies.

Sorry Mr P but I find this advice to be ill conceived at best and dangerous in the extreme.

Merely covering the magnet with tape to prevent a dead short to the track is folly! Most home tracks ( and more than a few Club ones) are put together and taken apart regularily and the joins are in no way smooth and flat. How long do you think a piece of thin PVC is going to last as insulation between track and magnet?

You simply lull someone into a false sense of security and leave them to worry about dead shorts, damaged cars/controllers/track, blown transformers and a fire at worst.
Fitting larger diameter tyres would, I suggest, be imperative not merely preferable for Scalextric Classic, SCX AND Ninco (which also has raised track rails that rub on the bottom of the 1/32 TSRF chassis in standard setup by the way).

Now don't get me wrong, I like your chassis, am certainly not trying to slag off an excellent product and use more than a few of them in both 1/32 and 1/24 scale but I simply do not feel they belong on a small home track or and old uneven one of any make and definately not Scalextric Classic or SCX. You yourself say they were not designed to work on these tracks deliberately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cheers Swiss for clearing that one up for me, I didn't want to spend £50 on the chassis and the body to find that the result on my home track is bad. Can I just say, if its OK with the moderators, that no arguments will take place over quality of the TSRF products, its horses for courses. Just trying to avoid any potential arguments.
 

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QUOTE Can I just say, if its OK with the moderators, that no arguments will take place over quality of the TSRF products

No, I don't think you can actually. If anyone on the board wants to start a discussion about TSRF products, they are free to do so. It's what the board was set up for; the free exchange of views and opinions.

McLaren
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry, I meant on this post. It wa just an idea that thee could be a huge dispute over whether TSRF 1/32 chassis will run well on old Scalextric Classic track.
 

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If it needs to be said, then it should be. Unfortunatly, once you have started a post on SF you have no control on which direction it takes. Sometimes a mod will step in, but (thankfully) that is rare.

Mclaren
 

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Mr. Max,
I did not know that there was a dispute either!


Now for answering Swissracer's comment:

QUOTE Merely covering the magnet with tape to prevent a dead short to the track is folly! Most home tracks ( and more than a few Club ones) are put together and taken apart regularily and the joins are in no way smooth and flat. How long do you think a piece of thin PVC is going to last as insulation between track and magnet?

Hi Swissracer, first, we have (and apparently our customers because I am sure that we would have heard by now) never encountered any problems on any other track than Scalextric's odd system. ALL the other tracks LOVE the TSRF chassis, especially the older American tracks and the Carrera system.
As far as how long the tape last, so far, after nearly two years of use on some of our documented test cars, no sign of wearing anytime soon.

First we do not cover the magnet itself but the whole chassis, just to avoid the possibility of the tape catching the end of a rail. Of course the magnet is flush with the chassis on the TSRF cars, so it is totally smooth under. I don't know what quality of electrical tape there is in Switzerland, but the one available in any US hardware store is good enough to last up to 15 years on wrapping and isolating sensitive electrical equipment on my own full size racing cars, and I also used it successfully during my pro-racing days for the same exact reason (low ground clearance and wearing tires with a brass chassis), and the current was vastly superior to the measly 1-amp available from the Scalextric pack. If you look at the period pictures of my pro cars, you will see that most of them if not all, are taped under. Same tape. We also run a Scalextric "Classic" oval track to measure motor endurance and have a TSRF chassis with TWO traction magnets, both taped with electrical tape. What does stop the car is not a short due to the tape wearing, but the tires wearing out and high-siding. This happens at about every 12 hours of constant running at 6-volt. We put new tires and keep going.

Now, IF the magnet would touch the rails, not much other than arcing would happen anyway, and the worst it will do will be to fuse the positive lead wire and the car will stop. End of the story. No smoke, no fire. Just a simple built-in fuse. How do I know? Because this is how we decided to use electrical tape in the first place, after we experimented on the "Classic" track. So Wankel, the only folly would be that one would have to cough up for a new lead wire and sometimes a plastic chassis.

No need for any fire estinguisher or paramedics to revive the dead cat. No need to panic anyone.
Regards,

Philippe


PS: Posted on the TSRF online catalogue, right above the 1/32 scale home-racing chassis:

1/32-Scale Home-Racing Chassis in Ready-to-Race or Kit form:

For Use on Carrera, Scalextric "Sport", Ninco, Revell and other fine plastic tracks

Not recommended for Scalextric "Classic" and tracks with shallow or very narrow slots. Traction magnet use recommended.

The use of a min. 5-amp variable voltage power supply and PM electronic controllers is highly recommended."

But it does not mean that it is not possible.
 

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Fine- but what IS the ground clearance on a TSRF chassis? I build mine to have 1/16" (1.6mm), just because that was the old ECRA rule when I were a lad, and I know no different. Now I run all my scratch chassis on the most beat up old Scaley 'Classic' (I've learnt to call it that) with no trouble at all on that 1/16". So they sometimes ground briefly on the most awful bent joints that I havn't tackled with a hammer and a screwdriver recently, but it doesn't impede progress much. So what? Sparks look very good if they happen anyway. And whisper it- many of them have flush mounted magnets, too.
So what is the problem with TSRF, IF there is one? 0.5mm ground clearance?
I'm afraid it's aginst my religion to buy chassis... or I would know, I guess.
Just an innocent enquiry from a cheapskate who's still trying to pay off the loan on my forty year old soldering iron.
 

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Allan Wakefield
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QUOTE I don't know what quality of electrical tape there is in Switzerland

You REALLY don't want to kow that Mr P
I still have rolls from the UK left but god help me when I run out...
But seriously , OK I pictured you just covering the area round the magnet.
The point I was making is that you get alot of sharp raised edges with most track systems that are constantly being put together and taken up. This will quickly lead to ripped tape which then catches and pulls away or wears away as the chassis rubs on the rails. I WAS being specific to Scalextric Classic and SCX ( I had also seen this on Ninco to a degree)

I saw no looming argument either btw Mr Max!

QUOTE So Wankel

Erm was me calling your view folly sir! not lil' Wankel this time

But I still think having a press fit (however good the fit) magnet potentially sliding along both metal rails isn't ideal but then I don't use your chassis on my Classic style track, I save it for the two it is Great on and by Great I mean fastest and best handling with least amount of work. So for me it is not an issue I was simply pointing it out.

QUOTE 1/32-Scale Home-Racing Chassis in Ready-to-Race or Kit form:

For Use on Carrera, Scalextric "Sport", Ninco, Revell and other fine plastic tracks

Not recommended for Scalextric "Classic" and tracks with shallow or very narrow slots. Traction magnet use recommended.

The use of a min. 5-amp variable voltage power supply and PM electronic controllers is highly recommended."

And there is Mr Maxs answer to the initial question right there on the page of the builder of the chassis!


Who said it isn't fun to answer a simple question with the maximum amount of hot air and strained fingers
 

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No hot air from me, I keep a very cool breath with fresh mints, my wife insists on it.


QUOTE Fine- but what IS the ground clearance on a TSRF chassis?

It IS 1/16th to begin with. Both the home-racing tires and the Club tires clear 1/16 at both ends of the cars, either 1/24 or 1/32 scale.

Mr. Max, you SHOULD give it a try. Please have a look at the many cars you can easily build with almost no talent required:HERE.



The TSRF was built for the true enthusiast, regardless of his crafting ability, not for the occasional Xmas shopper who brings his destroyed Scalextric set back to the store 3 days later for a refund.
Regards,

Doc Pea
 
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