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Tyre Truing

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· Phil Kalbfell
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3,411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
QUOTE Holding a car above a sheet of sandpaper will not work.

This was the only way slot car tyres were trued for many years! It will work IF done properly.

Tyre machines are great BUT as you now know they can be very expensive and you will also need a good variable power supply as most run of 12 volt motors and do not have speed control built in.

If you look thru the Auslot link you will find plenty of cheap simple options.

I have two tyre machines that I use to size my tyres, and get them round,BUT I always finish them on the car using fine wet and dry paper to get the final polish.

If I were you I would simply glue and true one set using an old chassis and see how you go.
The most expensive tyre machine will not make up for experience with truing tyres. The same goes for controllers,once you have plenty of race laps up THEN consider an Electronic controller.
 
Martyn_

· WRP World Champ 2015/2016
Joined
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4,301 Posts
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yep, upgrade your controllers.

I recently bought a Truspeed, what a difference it made. Consistently knocked almost a second off an 8 sec lap and not nearly so many deslots.

You'll be amazed at the improvement in your car control.

The controller I bought. If I improve over time, I may move up to the better unit.
 
G

·
#3 · (Edited)
Truing tyres hand held or just resting the car on sandpaper will not work if you race on wood, OK ish for plastic.

Power supply can easily be done with a 7.2 battery, charge and bat can be found on ebay really cheap. This will keep the rpm down when truing Nsr's and Slot.it F tyres.

Unless you can clap a dermal down parallel to a sanding block you will have to get your club to buy a truer for all of you to use.

If you want some tyres trued in the meantime just pm me what you want done i.e. Size of finished tyre, post them to me and I will do them for you.

Use thin CA glue, tip some in a small lid, dip small screwdriver in it the pull back tyre and drip in, repeat all the way round, generally takes about three goes at dripping CA in to down one side of the tyre. Doesn't matter if you get a bit on the outside as it is going to be trued.
 
S

· Registered
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619 Posts
#4 ·
QUOTE (Phil Upton @ 17 Feb 2012, 13:28) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Truing tyres hand held or just resting the car on sandpaper will not work if you race on wood, OK ish for plastic.
Any reason why it won't work? We race on wood and there doesn't appear to be much difference between those using a tyre truer and those not. Surely doing them on the car would true better for bent axles / dodgy bearings? I think a couple of people have used pre trued ultra grips.

Does it make any difference we try not to use tyre additives etc.
 
injectorman

· Banned
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7,722 Posts
#5 ·
A tyre truer will guarantee a concentric tyre. Sandpaper alone cannot guarantee this. You might fluke it but not worth the risk. You can alwYs share the cost and use of a truer with slot buddies.
An important tip, don't get glue on the tyre where it touches the track as you won't be able to true it properly.

Rick
 
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R

· Registered
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33 Posts
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
The issue with NSR tires is if you don't treat them, you are not getting full benefit out of them.

And yes tyres have to be glued on and trued first.

Phil Kalbfell,

Which ones do you have ?

The scaleauto unit has a speed knob on board, which I am constantly using.

When truing tyres, you must keep them lubed/cool or else they chunk.
 
R

· Registered
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33 Posts
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
O, I forgot to mention. You really want to aim for a diameter.

The more you have to take off the longer it takes to do.
This can take 1 or more hours to achieve, depending on amount to come off.

I true them treat in one truing and treatment takes at least 20 minutes.

My first pair of extremes and you can see the chunking.
Gloss finish is treatment after drying.


I ran these ultimates on my Reynard for 90 odd laps.
 
S

· Registered
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619 Posts
#8 ·
QUOTE (RMinAdelaide @ 18 Feb 2012, 11:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The issue with NSR tires is if you don't treat them, you are not getting full benefit out of them.

But if no-one treats the tyres then it's the same as everyone treating their tyres except a little slower, and the time and money we all save we can enjoy quality time in the pub, discussing over a pint how quick we could have been if we had treated the tyres!

I agree there's a huge difference with treated though, we went to another club for a race and got slaughtered because they had treated tyres and we didn't.

May have to see if I can borrow a tyre truer and see if it helps, or try some pre-trued tyres.

Slingshot
 
I

· Ian
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10,487 Posts
#13 ·
Dave,
I have to save up to buy these luxuries, or plan them for Birthdays etc
Let me know how you get on with yours better still, I can't wait to see you at the club with treated tyres!
We'll be able to judge the results
 
J

· Registered
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74 Posts
#15 ·
My self i would'nt waste my money on the MB SLOT tyre treatment machine. My advise would be spend the extra money on the NSR tyre truing machine that gives you the choice of everything. Truing 32 scale wheels and tyres , 1/24 scale Foam tyres and you have tyre treatment set up.

For me this is the number 1 choice of any tyre truing machines released. As i have just about every machine that is on the market i swear buy the NSR.

As a slot racer /builder, tyres are the most important part of the car and i rely on having the best grip possible for my cars to honk.

I machine my tyres on a taper,not square like everyone else does. Reason,after driving for a while tyres do not stay square to the track they form a taper from the pressure of the cars cornering. So to save an hour of driving or 500 laps later for the tyres to come on,machining them how i do brings my tyres to speed straight off. Also if tyre treatment is not aloud at clubs or event's,truing my tyres like this puts me in front before we even start.

As for treatment depends how soft i want them to be,10 to 20 hrs.

By the way not knocking the MB SLOT product or saying it's a waste of money as i know everyone has limits on the dollars.

regards shane a

team thunderbird
 
S

· Registered
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184 Posts
#16 ·
Hi Jazzbell

Interesting comments regarding setting the truer to form a taper, what sought of angle from 90 degrees do you set to.

When setting the taper on a NSR truer do you release the mounting screws of the block holding the spinning disc or alter the centre 'diameter adjuster' block?

Regards
 
S

· Tel
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4,401 Posts
#17 ·
QUOTE (RMinAdelaide @ 21 Feb 2012, 11:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>



TBH that could be achieved with modified set up plate and a motor mount .... what sort of price are these ?
 
I

· Ian
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10,487 Posts
#19 ·
Now that's true pfj


Shane, but if we already have a truer, this could possibly an addition. We used some tyres that had been oiled with one of these and it certainly did seem to get the job done better than the normal methods we have used in the past. Somehow the tyres seemed to be impregnated with oil so were much softer than we had been able to achieve via other methods. (NB they were for a six hour race and they lasted without any deterioration what soever)

That said I've never actually seen one in the flesh, and this is the first time I've seen pictures, like Savage - aka Tel says it can't be that difficult to make such a machine. I just have it in the back of my mind it will be spraying oil everywhere?


Time to search for images of one being used
to see how it actually works?
 
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janj86
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