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Thanks for everyone's kind words - it does help in the dead of night when you know someone else likes what you are doing.....

So all the main (working) parts are now fabricated and painted so they just need the final assembly. Plus then the body has to be painted up and added on.

Strange how the top of the chassis was always blue. I guess becuase the first version (1976) had the top of the chassis exposed so they all got painted. Then the same chassis were used in 1977 without bothering to remove the paint despite it being totally covered by the bodywork!!

Just added that little bit extra stress......

Wood Electric blue Gas Automotive exterior Auto part


Toy Motor vehicle Wood Machine Trigger


Circuit component Electronic instrument Hardware programmer Audio equipment Musical instrument accessory


Wood Automotive exterior Engineering Auto part Tool


Cheers

Andi
 

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So I'm writing on iPhone so I'll be short and maybe write more later.
I set out to test some ideas and convert the matchbox kit into a slotcar.
As I tend to do it grew a bit obsessive but now I see a pattern emerging; I realise the model is finished when my wife starts to scream at me....... Otherwise I'd never stop. There really is no point to stop is there? A model can be anything the builder wants it to be.
But I want to be clear this is not a static model electrified. This is supposed to be a full on racing machine. So was the Vanwall but obviously that just couldn't compete with modern brass chassis and powerfull motors.

I set out to take the concepts of this brilliant original design and engineer them to slot car scale:
4 wheel steering - all with vertical suspension movement of course.
Fully stressed motor
Real monocoque of metal
What evolved was a rear suspension system which moves closer to what I see people doing on here.
The idea is to really minimise unsprung weight by linking the motor to the chassis and allowing the rear axle to pivot. Not new I know but the rear links are thin and flexible so it seems to work??
Gears are always tricky for me as I need them small. I tried Ranch design and the pinions are great but the alloy crown chewed after just a few laps. In the end the only thing is Ostorero crowns in bronze but they only do 27t which limits things. I've used 9t pinion so far but the car is too long so have now fitted 8t. Hope that calms it for the corners.
Results suggest it works reasonably well. It is a second quicker than anything I've produced to date and getting close to my benchmark: NSR Ford P68 which is race ready!

Anyway here are a few pic's....

Tire Car Vehicle Wheel Automotive tire


Tire Vehicle Wheel Helmet Car


Tire Wheel Land vehicle Helmet Sports equipment


Vehicle Product Car Motor vehicle Gas


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Car Vehicle


Tire Wheel Sports equipment Automotive tire Car


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle


Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Car


Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Tire Vehicle Wheel Car Automotive tire


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle


Vehicle Toy Automotive tire Motor vehicle Light


Land vehicle Motor vehicle Toy Blue Car


Vehicle Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Automotive design


Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire


Automotive tire Adhesive Gas Technology Audio equipment


Danny, Phil et al, I hope the screws are small enough this time.

Cheers
Andi
 

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Utterly, utterly superb! Depailler is the perfect choice of driver (the son of an architect!) and perfectly painted. He was the one who worked so hard to develop this car and it was only the tyres that let it down in the end. Glad to see he isn't wearing the boxing gloves that so many slot car drivers seem to use these days.
 

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Andi

You might want to try 64 or 72 pitch gears, they will be more suitable, (more compact and with a better choice of ratios).
More in keeping with the ethos of the build too.

Joel

PS : Try SCD in the UK or ABslot, failing that, let me know what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Hi Joel

Thay are in fact 64 pitch gears though they may look bigger in the pictures! Its a scale thing - this is tiny.....

My problems stem from the overall diameter needed in order that the crown is less than 11.5mm dia. which is about as big as it can be to clear the top and bottom links of the rear suspension for most of the cars of this period if one is trying for scale (which obviously I am).

All the other 64 and 72 pitch gears i've found (and i've done a lot of searching) appear to have a larger diameter than that. Now if i've missed something and ABslot etc. do have smaller dia. gears in these pitches PLEASE tell me as i'd love to know. It would allow me much better tuning possibilities.

Thanks for the comments so far by the way.

Cheers

Andi
 

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Andi,

Another work of art and thing of beauty. You really are in a league of your own when it comes to F1 modelling.

Keep up the good work and please keep sharing it with us.

Happy Christmas,

Philip
 

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Andy
, this is again is a technical masterpiece. And I got to admit, those screws look lovely

Are you pleased with the track qualities of the car, with the steering mechanism and everything?
I guess especially with this type of car, such a steering mechanism is advisable for it's flexibility.
I really would like to see you do a Pre war, GP car, with an open steering- en suspension Mechanism, who knows maybe a challenge in the future?
Can wait to see your next project, I would say, carry on we would like to see more


Cheers,
Danny
 

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Slot King
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11.5!! It will have to be HO, the one I measured is 10.6.

You could try the standard stuff, but I doubt that it is sturdy enough.
You should be able to find some brass gears used for HO racing in the US (Dean help!).
The alternative might be servo gears, but not sure where you get those (short of breaking up a servo)

Joel
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
So now on a real computer I can write easier....

I wanted to do something slightly different this time. I wanted to write the series of frustrations, mistakes and down right cock-ups that I made with this car. These threads can get a bit sychophantic if one is not careful - not that I don't like a bit of praise just like the rest of us but I think these posts should offer a little more insight into the real goings on, when one is alone, working it out, late at night and getting stressed. That is the real 'space' that scratch builders inhabit - the moment of 'completion' is just that, a moment after many many moments of thought, action and reaction.

In fact the complete car is in many ways a total anticlimax. Its done, so now what? Put it in the cupboard and start another.......

Its a strange world!!

So, as I mentioned before the first mistake was to miscalculate the length of the motor so that it wouldn't fit INSIDE the chassis. I discounted the FF 030 beardog motor on the grounds that it just isn't competitive ont he type of circuits that we race on here. I dropped the whole project for amonth after that before finally plucking up courage to cut out sufficient of the chassis behind the seat so the motor would slip through. I finally worked out you see that once the seat was in you would really not notice as the flared seat back essentially hid everything. It was a BAD moment though..

Another bad moment was the soldering of the front suspension arms (A frames). I was using my usual soldering iron, having given up on the gas torch years ago with the Vanwall. The problem was that given the weight of the brass I just couldn't get enough heat just (and only) where I needed. So I went a bought the torch which took about 3 weeks in itself and then, as I've always found ended up making a total mess as it proceeded to melt all the solder apart from the bit I needed. i don't want to go into another discussion about soldering here as I have a LOT of experience but this was very difficult to control and again I left the model for a month before getting the patience back to try again!!!

That brings us to testing. The car was complete to the stage of the post before last. I.e. chassis and motor detail done but no body cover, driver etc. I took it to Gubbio, our track which is very fast and quite large. i don't remember excatly the dimensions but I think the striaght must be 8m and overall it must be about 35m. Here competition cars lap around 11.2 sec's although my handicap is around 1s more than that. My 'fan car' is capable of around 12.3 (me 13.2) but with me driving a standard F1 March and my Surtees with a Scaley FF motor can only manage about 14.3s. I ran the car hard and fast all night with my new slot.it controller and managed to get down to 13.2s and Walter Merulli (ex italian champ) got it down to 12.2s with which I was well and truly happy!!
Anyway at a certain point at full throtle down the straight the trigger seized at full gas and the car went off the end, hit the low flexible barrier, bounced up, hit the wall still moving very fast and landed on the floor some 3m away. At frist glance one could see that the rear wing, oil radiators and exhausts were all smashed but what I only discovered later was that the impact probably on the floor had bent the whole rear end of the car slightly to one side so that all the trailing links were bent and this had also wrenched the motor sideways (remember the motor is screw fixed to the chassis). It has been a major struggle to get that all back in line again.

Finally, painting. For many people on here the 'body' and the painting is where scratch building starts and stops. So obviously I recognise that this is an important part of the overall art. However for me by the time I arrive to sorting out the body and well and trully fed up with the whole project. I see myself as more of an engineer - designer than a painter - decorator and so for me its far more important to understand the original engineering concepts of the car and transfer them to 1:32 than it is to spray. I'm at least partly saying this as i'm just not that good at painting........ It just takes me ages and so many coats going back and forth between colours to get a decent finish. Most of that is because masking around curves is just so hard. How is that done properly. not to mention I have to paint at 5am as that is the only moment when noone is int he living room!! Yes I spray on the dining table as its the only place warm enough. Finally everything was done, i'd finished Depailler's helmet about 30 mins before, all I had to do was assemble and I realised Depailler was just sitting too high. So I had to cut a lot off his bottom and legs. Of course i'm too impatient to wait so while I do it I totally mess up the still tacky paint on his helmet. What a palava!! Easier to paint 1:1 than 1:32 I can tell ya.......

Well there ya go - a few insights into this project.....

Enjoy

Andi
 

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Very nice, you could always lend it to me for the race at Presto Park on the 19th of February, just don't expect to get it back in one piece.


I can measure some HO gears if you want me to, but the axles are thinner on HO cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
QUOTE (merkit the grof @ 22 Dec 2011, 11:57) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>11.5!!

Ahhh, yes Joel - I thought that might get ya!!!

In fact the Ranch Design crowns of 24t are around 10.5mm diameter so we are talking REALLY small. But they are only aluminium and given I do have some very slight play and they have short teeth they mash up immediately.

I think the HO gears is the way to go int he future. If you see Beardog's Ferrari 1512 it has a completely enclosed gearbox which just takes it to another level. He says he has HO gears in that so I might have to ask him what and where..... Again though i'm not sure if they can take the ware and tear.....

Andi
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 22 Dec 2011, 12:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>axles are thinner on HO cars.

Could be perfect - I could sleeve the wheels to fit and it'd help the scale feel if the axle was thinner. Might bend though if I had a big 'off'.
 

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I'll measure a set tonight if I remember, I've only got plastic gears but your welcome to a crown gear if you want one, I can't remember the axle size of HO cars but it's fairly easy to find out and it's available as a drill blank.

PM Deane (Montoya1) he can probably recomend where to get metal gears from.
 

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Hi Andy,

Your to stressed on the car, you should get outside, and taste the Italian food and lots of Italian wine, come back, and you'll see the car in a totally new perspective.

Believe me Andy, there's no such thing as a perfect slot car. What you've showed us is for 98% of the scratch builders, out of their capacity. It is a masterpiece and to me technically the top here on the Forum and I think most of the Guys will agree with me.

And by this I want to wish you and all the other slot lovers a marry Christmas and a happy New Year. And lots of slot things under the tree


Cheers
,
Danny
 

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I use the Ranch Design gears in my half tonners and when I support the axle in the rear uprights I now use a thrust surface for the back of the gear to ride against. There is such close tolerances in gear clearance that just a wee bit too much flex will chew the teeth right off the gear. If the crown gear is trapped between the pinion and the thrust surface and shimmed to the correct backlash the gears will live for a good while. Here is a photo early on in a chassis build for you to look at. There is a brass washer soldered in place for the shims and the gear to ride against and the washer has a .125 hole in the center so it does not drag on the axle. To move your car at speed you need to get one of the Pioneer FF-030 motors that have good RPM and plenty of torque for a smaller form motor.

Regards Ken
 
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