Tyrrell 001/002 Policar gearbox conversion for Scalextric 1971/2 models
How to:
So as ever you will need a donor car. I am converting the Francois Cevert 001 model but the instructions are the same for all variants.
This conversion is NOT reversible for the donor car as the body has to be modified.
1. Disassembly:
Disassemble the Scalextric car by removing all screws. You will need the top body with rear wing and airbox and all top engine and gearbox detail.
The chassis and side pods are one piece, these will need to be cut and reused.
The rear suspension on my model was glued together so I had to prise it apart and this meant it all broke off. Some models might not be glued so save the pieces you can for other builds or for adding suspension detail to this build!
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Blue]()
The exhausts should be removed carefully from the chassis part and set aside for reuse.
2. Assemble the other components:
A. You will need a complete Policar gearbox (narrow type) or the wide type can be cut down. This can be assembled from all the components or more economically bought as a single piece.
B. Rear wheels and tyres:
There are two options:
A. Policar aluminium wheels part number PW13813519A with tyres part number PPT1224G25 for G25 compound or the same reference ending with C1 for that compound.
B. The aluminium hubs available through Pendle Slot Racing, part PCS-321413 are a good option as the hub in this case does not get in the way or look too bad. They also have F22 compound tyres compatible with these wheels, ref. PCS-321413T.
The combination is slightly too large in diameter when assembled, presumably to allow them to be glued and trued.
C. Front wheels and tyres
Policar wheels part no. PW13807921P are the only wheels that will fit this conversion as they have the inner recess, all other wheels will make the front track too wide.
Use tyres Slot.it PT1088C1
D. Compatible Chassis available here: ARCO by conti_rowland - Shapeways Shops
E. Front axle - length 51mm. I found the front axle to be slightly tight in the chassis so used a 3/32 reamer to ease it for a perfect fit. I prefer to leave the chassis a bit tight rather than make them too loose so that the adjustment can be done by the purchaser.
F. Guide, braid and wires. I recommend a thin wire and very thin braid.
Due to the very low clearance at the front of this body you will need to use the Slot.it LMP guide CH88b. It comes with instructions for those unfamiliar with this guide.
G. Screws, there are numerous types available and you probably have some in your parts bin!
3. Chassis assembly:
Dry fit the guide to the chassis making sure it rotates freely. The tolerances are fine so I needed to trim around the inside of the guide drum to ensure free rotation.
![Black Font Material property Pattern Metal]()
Assemble the wires and braids and then screw the guide down, again ensuring it freely rotates.
Screw the Policar gearbox to the chassis using two screws.
4. Side Pod assembly
Cut off the side pods as shown, they need to be cut very close to the screw positions, retaining the screw positions.
![Water Circuit component Grass Hardware programmer Urban design]()
Remove the front axle assembly from the top body by cutting it from the dashboard. The latter can be left in place and glued.
![Green Grass Circuit component Capacitor Engineering]()
It is best to trim the detail from the sides of the motor pod so it is as narrow and straight as possible.
Dry fit the side pods and check that the chassis and pod will fit between them.
Offer the chassis up to the front body and you will see that the guide screw prevents the body sitting up in its correct position. Cut out a shape from the central area of the top body radiator ducts until the chassis/guide fits snuggly. This can be seen from the top of the car which is unfortunate. Once I had cut the required amount of bodywork I cut two small pieces of thin plasticard, sprayed them and glued them in place. This covers the guide and cut holes and although it has reduced the depth of the ducts at first glance little appears to have changed from the original.
![Blue Line Electric blue Engineering Bumper]()
![Vehicle Automotive tire Monoplane Asphalt Formula racing]()
![Green Toy Aircraft Toy airplane Vehicle]()
I used Ford Regatta Blue but am told that Vauxhall Regatta Blue may be a better match to the Tyrrell colour.
Trim the front of the side pods and water pipes as shown below too.
![Tire Vehicle Wheel Car White]()
Screw the resultant side pods to the top body and then glue them in place ensuring they are aligned well. One side on my car sat square while the other had a tendency to rotate so I backed off the screw a little and then glued it.
I left my screws in but one could discard them once the side pods are securely glued. Leave the body upside down if using superglue so that the vapour doesn't fog the screen during curing.
![Tire Wheel Toy Automotive tire Automotive design]()
5. Preparation of the body
The driver, rear bodywork and exhaust ducts needs to be trimmed to accept the new chassis and gearbox.
To do this I assembled the chassis and gearbox and then slowly cut away each area in turn, continually offering up the chassis/gearbox until I had a good fit.
I suggest starting without the guide in place initially. The bottom of the chassis should align flat with the bottom of the body/side pods.
![Circuit component Green Line Urban design Electronic engineering]()
I ended up cutting right through the driver and then gluing him back together. It is a close fit but slicing him up shouldn't be necessary and with care the required cut out should be possible without doing this!
Glue the exhausts to the engine detail on the top body as shown above.
Once the front is aligned and the driver cut out the rear gearbox can be cut to the required shape and any gear clearances achieved.
The Policar gearbox should come right up until the rear screw position sits against the top body gearbox casing.
Unfortunately, the rearmost screw on the donor body is not central. I opened out the hole in the back of the Policar gearbox to the side so as to pick up the asymmetrical screw position on the donor body (see photo above). Doing this carefully will allow a small headed screw to be used to secure the back of the body to the chassis. Some racers may prefer not to have any fixing here!
7. Final assembly
Two screws at the front and the optional one at the rear should be tightened / semi tightened and the bottom of the chassis should align with the bottom of the body.
Fit the wheels and tyres and go and test!
Thank you for your custom.
Andi
How to:
So as ever you will need a donor car. I am converting the Francois Cevert 001 model but the instructions are the same for all variants.
This conversion is NOT reversible for the donor car as the body has to be modified.
1. Disassembly:
Disassemble the Scalextric car by removing all screws. You will need the top body with rear wing and airbox and all top engine and gearbox detail.
The chassis and side pods are one piece, these will need to be cut and reused.
The rear suspension on my model was glued together so I had to prise it apart and this meant it all broke off. Some models might not be glued so save the pieces you can for other builds or for adding suspension detail to this build!
The exhausts should be removed carefully from the chassis part and set aside for reuse.
2. Assemble the other components:
A. You will need a complete Policar gearbox (narrow type) or the wide type can be cut down. This can be assembled from all the components or more economically bought as a single piece.
B. Rear wheels and tyres:
There are two options:
A. Policar aluminium wheels part number PW13813519A with tyres part number PPT1224G25 for G25 compound or the same reference ending with C1 for that compound.
B. The aluminium hubs available through Pendle Slot Racing, part PCS-321413 are a good option as the hub in this case does not get in the way or look too bad. They also have F22 compound tyres compatible with these wheels, ref. PCS-321413T.
The combination is slightly too large in diameter when assembled, presumably to allow them to be glued and trued.
C. Front wheels and tyres
Policar wheels part no. PW13807921P are the only wheels that will fit this conversion as they have the inner recess, all other wheels will make the front track too wide.
Use tyres Slot.it PT1088C1
D. Compatible Chassis available here: ARCO by conti_rowland - Shapeways Shops
E. Front axle - length 51mm. I found the front axle to be slightly tight in the chassis so used a 3/32 reamer to ease it for a perfect fit. I prefer to leave the chassis a bit tight rather than make them too loose so that the adjustment can be done by the purchaser.
F. Guide, braid and wires. I recommend a thin wire and very thin braid.
Due to the very low clearance at the front of this body you will need to use the Slot.it LMP guide CH88b. It comes with instructions for those unfamiliar with this guide.
G. Screws, there are numerous types available and you probably have some in your parts bin!
3. Chassis assembly:
Dry fit the guide to the chassis making sure it rotates freely. The tolerances are fine so I needed to trim around the inside of the guide drum to ensure free rotation.
Assemble the wires and braids and then screw the guide down, again ensuring it freely rotates.
Screw the Policar gearbox to the chassis using two screws.
4. Side Pod assembly
Cut off the side pods as shown, they need to be cut very close to the screw positions, retaining the screw positions.
Remove the front axle assembly from the top body by cutting it from the dashboard. The latter can be left in place and glued.
It is best to trim the detail from the sides of the motor pod so it is as narrow and straight as possible.
Dry fit the side pods and check that the chassis and pod will fit between them.
Offer the chassis up to the front body and you will see that the guide screw prevents the body sitting up in its correct position. Cut out a shape from the central area of the top body radiator ducts until the chassis/guide fits snuggly. This can be seen from the top of the car which is unfortunate. Once I had cut the required amount of bodywork I cut two small pieces of thin plasticard, sprayed them and glued them in place. This covers the guide and cut holes and although it has reduced the depth of the ducts at first glance little appears to have changed from the original.
I used Ford Regatta Blue but am told that Vauxhall Regatta Blue may be a better match to the Tyrrell colour.
Trim the front of the side pods and water pipes as shown below too.
Screw the resultant side pods to the top body and then glue them in place ensuring they are aligned well. One side on my car sat square while the other had a tendency to rotate so I backed off the screw a little and then glued it.
I left my screws in but one could discard them once the side pods are securely glued. Leave the body upside down if using superglue so that the vapour doesn't fog the screen during curing.
5. Preparation of the body
The driver, rear bodywork and exhaust ducts needs to be trimmed to accept the new chassis and gearbox.
To do this I assembled the chassis and gearbox and then slowly cut away each area in turn, continually offering up the chassis/gearbox until I had a good fit.
I suggest starting without the guide in place initially. The bottom of the chassis should align flat with the bottom of the body/side pods.
I ended up cutting right through the driver and then gluing him back together. It is a close fit but slicing him up shouldn't be necessary and with care the required cut out should be possible without doing this!
Glue the exhausts to the engine detail on the top body as shown above.
Once the front is aligned and the driver cut out the rear gearbox can be cut to the required shape and any gear clearances achieved.
The Policar gearbox should come right up until the rear screw position sits against the top body gearbox casing.
Unfortunately, the rearmost screw on the donor body is not central. I opened out the hole in the back of the Policar gearbox to the side so as to pick up the asymmetrical screw position on the donor body (see photo above). Doing this carefully will allow a small headed screw to be used to secure the back of the body to the chassis. Some racers may prefer not to have any fixing here!
7. Final assembly
Two screws at the front and the optional one at the rear should be tightened / semi tightened and the bottom of the chassis should align with the bottom of the body.
Fit the wheels and tyres and go and test!
Thank you for your custom.
Andi
