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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ultimate Tuning - just for interests sake, say there was a class, totally open, any car and any tuning, tweak or modification allowed what, how and why would you do?

So for example, what car, body chassis mods, choice of motor, axles, gears, guide braid and all those small things that make all the difference!
Dont worry about cost! just imagine you've been let loose in your favourite slot shop!
And most importantly - what colour would you paint it! (we all know red cars are the fastest!)

Just to level things out a bit;

Track would be MDF, braided, grippy painted surface
Any type of controller
Any type of car/chassis/motor (as long as its hard body ie, scalextric, ninco carrera etc)

I know there are still alot of varibles, but its just for fun really and maybe a good way of gaining some little known tweaks or just way out ideas!

Look forward to the replies!
 

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Rich Dumas
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If you can use an aftermarket chassis a Slot.it HRS or HRS2 is a great choice. We run several classes based on that chassis and they are an overwhelming favorite with the guys that build cars for proxy racing. Make sure that whatever chassis you use is straight. For non-magnet racing the setup of the front axle is critical, the front tires should support the front of the car, not the guide flag. I like to use adjustable front axle holders, a few cars have that feature or you can buy them from Slot Car Corner. You would think that all aftermarket machined wheels would be created equal, however I have found some that don't run true. You need to use axles that are straight, round and hardened so that they won't wear easily. Slot.it axles are good, but I usually use drill blanks. The wheels should be a very snug fit on the axles and the wheel bearings should be snug on the axles just short of wanting to bind. The closer the tolerences between the bearings are the more critical the alignment of the bearings in their carriers will be. Slot Car Corner has a kit for aligning the bearings. Note that a few cars use spherical bearings that are self aligning. A loose guide flag will degrade the car's handling, I do not like spring loaded guide flags and prefer to use ones that are held in place with a screw and washer. Pickup braids with a little spring tend to make better contact, I prefer the tinned copper ones from Slot.it. Obviously you need to use high quality gears, when gears are making noise they are wasting power. The motor is actually the last thing to consider. For non-magnet racing boxer style motors tend to be too powerful, I would start with something like a NSR Shark 20K or a Slot.it 21.5K motor and work my way up from there. I can't recall ever seeing a car with more than a 25K/180gcm motor that was a joy to drive.
 

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Tony
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Always start with the motor whatever make, use a can slug to ensure it is square, ballrace in can, align brushes, shim, glue in and hone the magnets. Run the motor until warm and true the comm while still warm. Reassemble the motor with minimal armature float and shunt the brushes and run the motor in. Other simple things to do are , ensure the chassis is flat, fit axle ballraces, ensure the guide doesn't wobble about and use good quality soft braids. If you want to take it to extremes fit hollow drill blank axles. Could go on forever and be a real bore but I'll leave it at that.
Tony
 

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a group 27 motor with a milder wind. a mac chassis. magnesium wheels, drill blank axles, a slick 7 guide, soft copper tinned with silver, braid, koford gears and a new nsr capri group5 body painted matt black and no decoration except an stp sticker on the hood. tyres would have to be an experiment. the most expensive electronic controller you can buy and very quick reaction times. should be one hellava beast. john
 

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Change your name to Salvatore, move to Italy, start a business. Oh wait.....
 

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i answered the original questions, i dont need snidey comments for a cheap laugh. salvatore produces nothing like the above, there would be no use for it. by the way i haven,t had a humour bypass, i just get sick of the one liners that add nothing to the post. have a nice day. john
 

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To make hard body cars go faster, it's worth looking at what makes the metal chassis / vac formed body cars go so quickly.

Simply bolting a quick strap motor and a pair of "fish" rubber tyres from a metal chassis / vac formed body car onto a hardbody car will produce an overpowered car that falls over in corners.
A low centre of gravity is critical to getting the best out of higher grip tyres. So running as little ground clearance as practical, as light a body as possible mounted as low as possible should help. Most likely "fish" rubber tyres will still produce too much grip, so some of the lower grip foam tyres would be worth a try.
Too much power can be tamed by the "choke" adjustment on the controller. For ease of tuning, starting with a bit more power than you really need and use the "choke" to get the optimum amount of power is a good way to go.

In my experience of hard bodied racing, metal chassis are usually do the winning, proving significantly better than than the best plastic chassis (NSR) and vastly quicker than Scalextric, Ninco Carrera etc . Metal chassis can be scratch built, or built from pre cut kits by Mack etc.

Of course testing is a vital part of tuning. Ultimate tuning in theory is all very well for winning the discussion, but to win racing you need tuning that produces real gains when tested.

Salvatore's experience at world championship level with metal chassis / vac formed body cars has been a huge benefit to NSR's developments.
 

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QUOTE (300SLR @ 11 Jul 2012, 17:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Most likely "fish" rubber tyres will still produce too much grip, so some of the lower grip foam tyres would be worth a try.

When you say "fish" rubber tyres do you mean tuna tires? I have a set but have never tried them. Store Keeper's syndrome.
 

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Interesting question, we run a GT class (no prototypes) which is very similar to this on a wooden sandtex track, the only real condition is you run untreated rubber tyres, our smallish track doesn't really give any benifit to a quick motor.

There is currently an intersting mix of cars, from fairly standard Scalextric, Ninco etc tricked out NSR's and Slot.it to one off brass chassis. Currently it seems that the NSR's are holding the advantage but that could easily change if someone get's the brass chassis working.

My F430 based on a parma international chassis running Ultragrips with a 35K motor is fun to drive but definatley no class winner.
 

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Abarth Mike
Tuna is one sort of "fish" rubber tyre. There are others such as UFFRA, Pirana, JK B, Road Hogs, Speed Shop, BSP etc. They are all broadly similar.

Slingshotx
I agree NSR and Slot.it will probably be beaten where you race once somebody gets metal chassis working well.
Incidentally, most quick metal chassis are made of spring steel - either piano wire or sheet, some have brass sections where extra weight is needed, a lot are all steel.

It's no surprise a Parma international isn't a class winner.
A Parma international isn't competitive against more modern entry level metal chassis when using "fish" rubber tyre vac formed bodies.
I doubt any of them are going to be particularly suitable for your sort of conditions.
 

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A well setup Plafit or Scholer chassis with foam rears, 35k cheetah and a Scaleauto Toyota GT1 body would be interesting

I think a setup like that would actually be quite nice to drive.....hmmm you've got me thinking I've got some bits laying around
 

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C,omon guys. this a purely experimental idea. Theres no class to run it in, so start thinking outa the box all the general tuning rules apply, Eg blue printing the motor, Perfectly flat Chassis, Gears and bearings good mesh as least friction as possible, ect, add finitum. so what would you build. I,ve given one verion so what about a 1/24 nissan delta wing, custom designed sping steel chassis, open group 12 motor, Twin, steering front wheels, set up tripod style,angle or sidewinder set up if it could be mabe to fit and played around with, body dimensions. i dont really want to read about plastic chassis and slot it motors, set up for an existing class. i like Cambers idea, with more motor in it. youv,e got a completely free hand, money no object, so what balls to the wall beast would you make. motor, chassis, gears, wheels, bearings, tyres and body. john
 

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Tony
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OK, you asked for it. A 1/24th Sports car with a carbon fibre chassis, a quad cobalt magnet strap motor with a 26 turns of 26 guage armature. Voki 80 pitch gears, hollow carbon filled back axle, Ingram sponge rear tyres on polymer hubs. Cahoza cut down graphite guide with drilled light weight nut and soft braids, light weight pin mount front wheels all topped off with a an AAA bodies Zytek body finished in chrome and orange paint
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Some good replies so far, I love the sound of Bigtone's Zytec - carbon fibre looks the bizz and has many benifits too!

John is on the money with out the box thinking, it seems generally slotcars haven't evolved all that much, angle winders have been around in different forms for years, sprung mounts etc in one form or another, it just seems the materials used have changed - in the 60's brass and piano wire chassis to plastic chassis and mixes of both in scratch building.

Has anyone got or had any possibly revolutionary ideas but never voiced them or thought they would work?
I'm sure it has been touched on before but I always liked the idea of a diff, and had several MG vanquish cars which have them, and i'm sure under the right conditions would work but as far as I can tell this is the most revoultionary any slot car maker has come up with in years, I would love to see more tech in a car, but what?!
 

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Tony
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I have considered fitting the diff from one the new micro r/c cars but it would mean going inline. How about a micro motor inside each wheel. Some years ago Gary Fletcher built an F1 and sports car with a flywheel. He used the sports cars at the national championship and it did quite well. I'll try and find a picture.
 

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What about a working wing on a high downforce body to allow more speed on the straight of a king type track. A working diff on RC cars could be adapted. working rear brake similar to the scx system, But working on a seperate ring next to the gears. Sliding weights that move from the balance point to the rear wheels under accleration and move back to the balance point under braking. same for a side to side system using 2 weights working from the centre line to the outside pan.Composit chassis bonded together instead of the dozens of screws used now. better big comms like bill bugenis makes[available to buy off the shelf]. carbon fibre wheels and gears. its probably all been done in the 1960s. buts lets discover it all over again slightly off the topic but fun to write down. i,ve loads more ideas but the post is a bit long and off topic. john
 

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I wrote the post in two halves so its allready dated. nice Big T thinking outa the box. Thats a blue king qually motor 2 laps max before it fried every thing but hey no one said it had to last. the delrin wheels are the lightest you can get. i wish at least one manufactuer would make quality independant front wheels. that dont wobble at all. and the brake system could be applied to the front axle as well. john
 

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on gary Fletchers car with a fly wheel, i,m sumising how it works, that must be a spring loaded plate rubbing on the side of a contra rotating flywheel. it must slip enough to allow quick acelleration whilst bringing the fly wheel up to speed. it must slip enough to allow braking and when you punch the throttle the flywheel is still spinning fast enough to add massive torque to the wheel spindle, its clever with the contra rotation of the flywheel keeping the car balanced. Must have been a dog to set up right. Anyone got some more ideas how this may work. i can see the attraction of an inverted gear in the hub, when your really pushed for space,using a long can in a shallow angle sidewinder. now lets get back to what would you build and possibly why you used those components. john
 
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