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· Rich Dumas
4,546 Posts
If you can use an aftermarket chassis a HRS or HRS2 is a great choice. We run several classes based on that chassis and they are an overwhelming favorite with the guys that build cars for proxy racing. Make sure that whatever chassis you use is straight. For non-magnet racing the setup of the front axle is critical, the front tires should support the front of the car, not the guide flag. I like to use adjustable front axle holders, a few cars have that feature or you can buy them from Slot Car Corner. You would think that all aftermarket machined wheels would be created equal, however I have found some that don't run true. You need to use axles that are straight, round and hardened so that they won't wear easily. axles are good, but I usually use drill blanks. The wheels should be a very snug fit on the axles and the wheel bearings should be snug on the axles just short of wanting to bind. The closer the tolerences between the bearings are the more critical the alignment of the bearings in their carriers will be. Slot Car Corner has a kit for aligning the bearings. Note that a few cars use spherical bearings that are self aligning. A loose guide flag will degrade the car's handling, I do not like spring loaded guide flags and prefer to use ones that are held in place with a screw and washer. Pickup braids with a little spring tend to make better contact, I prefer the tinned copper ones from Obviously you need to use high quality gears, when gears are making noise they are wasting power. The motor is actually the last thing to consider. For non-magnet racing boxer style motors tend to be too powerful, I would start with something like a NSR Shark 20K or a 21.5K motor and work my way up from there. I can't recall ever seeing a car with more than a 25K/180gcm motor that was a joy to drive.
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