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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of the quirks that made me go for this house was the Slingsby loft ladder. I've loved them since I was a little kid (yes, I'm odd like that)




It's got a fair sized loft, the biggest of the three rooms up there hosts my track.
The first attempt met my main criteria of max track length for given board space.

In my naievity I came up with this odd "P" shaped rig. Lots of track in the space, but not very good for access as it had to stand away from the wall (to allow reslots in the far corner, where the R3 joins the long straight) and meant the racers area was too small. With the added bonus of it wouldnt take much for someone to disappear through the loft hatch, although the carpet wouldn't show the bloodstains!
In fairness, I know this is wide open for howls of "too much parallel track" but it was actually quite a tricky drive giving a decent 7 second lap with a good flowing rhythm. Suited me and my mates' novice style, anyhow.



This was too much like hassle, so It had to go against the outside walls. I decided on a "J" shape, as this would allow max amount of racers to use the space effectively without tripping over each other. In true British engineering fashion, here's my "back of a *** packet" original plan. ("Napkin design" to you, Greg)



They show up better in this UR3.0 I knocked up, the track is indicative of the board size, more than anything else.



The small board joining the two larger boards is a pop out section - I regularly need to wash/harvest the salt crystals from the Velux above it.

I've got two pits, 3 XLCs and lots of other track including two R1 squeezes that can go in, as well as piles of various corners of varying tightness and degrees. I'm just stuck trying to come up with something that will give me a good length lap, a few tricky twisty sections and allow some good leg stretching of my LMPs and F1s. I'm not worried about sticking in an elevated section, as I've seem some right stonkers on this forum recently.

Any suggestions will be met with much appreciation.

Oh yeah, and I need a name for it. The house is called West Môr, I live on Irongate Point, the Slingsby has a bit to play and I love the beach up the road called Rest Bay. Please don't laugh too much when I come up with some right daft name.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Wow. That's a tough space to design for. I've got an idea I'm working on, but I'm definitely looking forward to seeing what you and others come up with for it. If I get mine to a satisfactory point, I'll post it, but don't expect much. hehe
 

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Greg Gaub
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Ok, here's what I came up with.
I took some inspiration from Graham, and thought if you were up to it, you could improve the double-switchback hairpins (which I liken to a bit of a hill climb section) by adding a, now famous, Lane Swerve Chicane. The long straight along the sides and back is meant to be raised, even undulating if you like, with room underneath for the pit buildings, taking some inspiration from Savage and others. A short straight cut in half will bring the pit lane away from the main course so you can put some walls in there if you like. I wasn't sure what type of pit lane you had, but figured you could do the swap on a set if you needed to. Also wasn't sure what direction you wanted to go, where to put lane changers or the base, so I just kind of plopped them in.
Hopefully, there's something in there that you can use, or at least trigger some ideas of your own.


 

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Premium Member
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Mr F, that's a great layout for the space and still leaves area for so scenery.

Snufen, are you saying your loft has sub rooms?
 

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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, it's bonkers up there - as well as the large open area, there's a single-sized room (you could just about squeeze a double in) which holds my work bench and all the spare beds for visitors and then a shower room that is big enough for a full sized bath. That's where all our wetsuits hang to dry - doesn't half save on arguments!

The house was previously owned by an architect (actually, originally another architect built it for himself - should dig into this story a bit more). He did an absolute top class job of opening out the loft. To look at it, you'd think it was a very big unsupported span, but there are two bearing walls and two huge chimney stacks - all used as load bearers. I've got an architect and a structural engineer in my close family, both agree it's a very very slick job they did on it.

Regarding the layout - I've just gone out and bought some new MDF to replace the 8ft on the loop end of the long straight. It was warped too much for my liking and I wasn't happy with the attitude the track was laying at. The easiest way to get it home was to cut into two 4x4 foot boards, so I may have an extra foot on that last 8 ft of run.

I can't actually see any diags on your posts here (I'm stuck the wrong side of the firewall for a while) but will have a good look after.
Thanks for the effort guys.
 

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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow, just got to see it! Fantastic idea. The boards I bought today would give me an extra foot width from a point just right of the right-most part of the squeeze to the left hand end.
I could certainly get a little more into that area.

I'll get the MDF laid after work this evening and see how it all fits.
 

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Circuit Owner
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QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 24 Oct 2011, 05:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ok, here's what I came up with.
I took some inspiration from Graham, and thought if you were up to it, you could improve the double-switchback hairpins (which I liken to a bit of a hill climb section) by adding a, now famous, Lane Swerve Chicane. The long straight along the sides and back is meant to be raised, even undulating if you like, with room underneath for the pit buildings, taking some inspiration from Savage and others. A short straight cut in half will bring the pit lane away from the main course so you can put some walls in there if you like. I wasn't sure what type of pit lane you had, but figured you could do the swap on a set if you needed to. Also wasn't sure what direction you wanted to go, where to put lane changers or the base, so I just kind of plopped them in.
Hopefully, there's something in there that you can use, or at least trigger some ideas of your own.




Nice design Mr Flippant.

I'm not sure about the positioning of the straight lane changers - it probably needs testing to figure out the natural lane changing spots.

Cars will slide a lot around the double hairpins so that whole raised hill climb section will probably need to be a solid piece (to allow for tail-out bend negotiation) which makes the resulting long tunnel for the straight underneath a potential car trap - Snurfen I wonder if you should make holes either side of that section of track with a padded "drop zone" so on the rare occasion a car goes out of shape and comes of in the tunnel you can retrieve it from under the table or reach up from underneath and dislodge it. That tunnel will be about 1.5m long.

Also - if you moved the far left SLC elsewhere you could move the hill climb section 525mm further to the left and make the long straight longer.

Lastly - are those R4 curves top right and bottom right? Should be, and if they are maybe slightly banked?!? You need something long and fast to exercise your Mazda!!!
 

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Greg Gaub
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I tried a lot of locations for the double-hairpin. I settled on that one in the design so that the drivers could get sight of their car again just before the turn. If it's closer, then the entry to the turn will be obscured, leading to more crashes there. I agree that having that straight be longer would be nice, but that's also why the top and bottom right turns are R4, as you surmised. I agree that a slight bank would be good to help maintain speed so that you can let the legs out once per lap.

Also, if he does the Lane Swerve Chicane mod, the hairpins would be shorter, and the tunnel could be a little smaller, or moved and still have good visibility.
I'm just glad there's something in there worth trying.
 

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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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Well the MDF is installed,heres a few pics.

the first shows the old boards.
2 and 3 are end and side elevations so you can see the idea a bit better. I chamfered the middle board, otherwise marshalling would be carnage. Self and another racer (who is sunning himself in Rome for a few days - the git) are somewhat of the more robust physique.

hopefully, my first ever Slot.it should arrive tomorrow, so it will be lots of trank plonked down and a good thrash (after a suitable break in, a little tyre truing and general fondling of the Italian loveliness. I'll also be having a little dabble with my new Mr Slot.ca Mazda.

I'm hoping my visitor makes it, as he too has a new Mr Slot.ca Mazda to give it's first airing! A great fleabay spot Richard, thanks for the tip off!

The pics.







Much jiggling of track and trying of greg's suggestions will be happening tomorrow evening.

*EDIT* Forgot to add:

tried the pit config out and the current bridge is too narrow. I really like that setup, so I think I may extend the depth of the bridge by about 8 or 10 inches. That would allow enough room to get the pit lane game in, as well as make some sensible walling to keep it all seperate.

I'm seriously thinking of going the route of the barriers as made by a Finnish bloke, that someone posted on the forum the other day. Will really help get the scenery sorted when that sub-project commences.

I'm not going to be overly worried about scenics on this track, I'm more concerned about banging the laps in and it being able to take the abuse of our cohort. I'll be doing a rally stage with Snurf Jr over the winter to get all my artistic juices flowing!
 

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Alfie Noakes
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2,655 Posts
Nice loft space you've got there Snurfen. Look forward to following this thread.
The ladder and the carpet sort of look right together. How old is the house?
We've got a Slingsby pallet truck at work and a fine one it is too.
Can we have more pix of the pulley system?
Cheers,
Richard
 

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Greg Gaub
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Hmm... I think there was some confusion with the table size. I went by your diagram showing the measurements, but it looks like the 3' and 2'9" measurements were swapped in reality.
But, now that you've widened out the longer part, other options are opened up.
Either way, it sounds like you've already got a plan, so I'm looking forward to what you guys come up with tomorrow night.
 

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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@Greg - we'll be throwing track and ideas about tonight, so lots of pics tomorrow. I really appreciate your thoughts as you have come up with some great track suggestions in other threads.


@Richard, will do mate - the whole thing needs a good refurb, but the scaley is top of the list at the moment. I need to remove/clean/grease all the moving parts and take the handrail off, glue and threadlock it back on. I'll get some pics of it soon and post a link to the album on photobucket.

Can't wait to get my teeth into the track this evening - damn this need to earn money keeping me in work all day!
 

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Circuit Owner
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Looking good. Gutted I couldn't come over and see the layout begin to take shape - maybe next week!

Had you thought about installing CCTV and running the cars through your workshop/spare bedroom, through a tunnel into the shower room and back out to join the other end of the track. That would give you a MASSIVE loop and a 10-12 second lap time


A large screen TV with a 6-way monitor split would just about cover the route out of direct line of sight!!!


Seriously - you have a great amount of space now - had you considered making a routed section? You could have the gentlest possible curve, raised above the pit lane and slightly banked going from the far right of the room all the way round to get some serious speed up, going back to SPORT track at the end to make the most of magnets for braking. A bit of a challenge but it would be silky smooth and very, very quick.
 

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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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I'm still toying with the idea of moving those built in wardrobes somewhere - possibly dismantle and shove in the workshop/bedroom. could give another 3 metres on the main straight!

I am toying with a routed bit, for the pits, as well as the rally section mk1 i'll have a go at over Christmas.

Here's the track I came up with just for a starter, I didn't go elevated yet, just wanted to see how the boards look with some track down.

In the first pic, the bit between "Pit in" and "Pit out" there is a lot more track separation than the UR3 plan suggests. I was going mad trying to draw it, so I've separated it out to the second piccy. I probably will end up either doing a few routed bits in the middle or canabalising some old classic track.

Ok, here's the main track diag:



followed by the pits



and just for Richard,

here;s the hatch closed, the bottom assembly (spot any neodynium in that pic) the upper roller and finally the spool system. Note the cleverly taped on bag of sand counterwieght under the top stair. The paint was daubed/splattered by someone before I got the house!









Oh yeah, and finally, a view from the top. Notice the cunningly deployed "don't fall down the ladder" device. It's a knackered old tow rope of a surf rescue buoy, the rope and clip are very strong, it's just the buoy that got too tired for safe use.

 

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Circuit Owner
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If you need old Classic track I have about 20 long straights and about 20 curves mainly R2 that you can have as nobody on Evilbay wants to buy it!!!

It needs a good clean mind - no rust just tarnish.

I also have crossovers and green stuff (Ninja Turtles) that's not much use unless you do something creative in the pits with it.

Let me know it you want me to bring it over.

But if it was me I think I would go routed and spend less of my life maintaining rails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
id a few more bits last night, experimented with in-fill using poster board then had a dabble with some edging around the boards. I didn't want anything too hard, as I don't want to ding the cars paintwork when it barrels off.

I put a 5" height on the edging at the end of the main drag, as they fairly launch off there during a dismount. I plan to have the less dangerous areas at 3". It's only roughly tacked on with roofing tacks at the moment as I'm still having a play to see whats best. Any ideas how to permanently fix? I thought good sized staples would do the job.

In the pics below, you can see the black areas which is the rubberised shelf matting, used as an underlay for the complete boards. Simply laid on top, as I will need to hack/slash/drill when I permanently attach APB, power taps, etc etc.

The white stuff is the poster board. I've experimented with several different thicknesses, some to take the rubber matting to similuate tarmac (where I want off track grip), slightly thicker to take flocked paper and thinnes for infield where the buildings and scenery will eventually appear.





 

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Poster board you say for the perimeter/edging?
Looks more like corrugated plastic panels to me!
I think you folks call it Correx, right?

Cheers!
 

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Circuit Owner
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I raced on this last night and it's a nice flowing track wit some fast bits and some technical sections but it still flows.

Sealevel - the barriers around the table edges are corrugated plastic panels BUT the white stuff on the board is some form of plastic composite panel about 4-5mm thick that is used for posters and for panelling clean rooms in electronic manufacturing.

The corrugated plastic works well as it has some flex that slows down the cars and dampens the rebound, in some places it flicks the car back onto the track and into the slot nicely!

The composite panels on the baseboard have slightly less grip than the track itself and if you get it right offer controllable power slides - great fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After much discussion and running every concievable class from Mr Slotcar 787Bs to Ford Transit vans, several ideas were suggested and will be tried.

I will have to vary the thickness of the poster board (not the uprights that prevent the cars leaving the track and hitting the floor), depending on which surface lays directly next to the track edge:

1) Adding about a 1/2 inch wide strip of black rubber matting to simulate a slightly wider track - imagine using Carrera instead of Scalextric Sport

2) Flock or flocked paper - with or without kerbs - kerbs will be painted directly onto the poster board or a thin paper strip.

3) Painting of the board - smooth in some areas, textured in others - simulating either grass, concrete or mud, for example.

Whatever the surface, I'm going to try to NOT put barriers up that could be "leaned on" to assist cornering. If a drift is possible, so be it, but barriers will only be placed to stop interferrence with other parts of the track.
 
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