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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

Like most of you, I did not like the plastic look as well as the yellow color of the Scaley Dunlop bridge, and decided to revamp it to get a more metal look to the structure.

While being at it, I also decided to add some lighting to the bridge:

A down light under the bridge, lighting the track under the bridge,
Footlights on the bridge and on the stairs,
Racing condition lights on the sides of the stairs.

I started of by drilling 3mm holes on the sides where I wanted the footlights as well as holes for the wires,
then washing the bridge with dishwashing liquid,
then spray painting a base coat of plastic primer followed by several coats of dark grey and silver spray paint.

I then made up and installed the different led's - 3mm bright white for the footlights,
5mm bright white joined with a piece of drinking straw to create a "fluorescent tube" downlight,
and using bi-polar red/green led's on the side to create green / orange /red race condition lights on the side of the bridge.
(the race condition lights are still manually operated, but will be controlled later by some other means)

Pics of final product (race condition lights off, footlights and downlights on):



Red race condition lights on:



Green lights on:



Footlights:



Under the bridge showing the "flourescent tube" (I'm not a very neat cable layer!)



Enjoy!
 

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Cool!
I've got four of these on my track, very tempted to have a bash at this.

Dave
 

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Prof I T
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hi
very nice indeed, i have just decided where i am going to house my track call lights.
 

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very impressive, the new colour scheme works well, the track call lights add to the overall look, and takes it to the next level.
 

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Digital "Tea Boy"
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Nice job boet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanx guys!

@ SlotCarDad: Go for it, it takes a while, especially the electronics, but very rewarding!

@ bigbird & TR7_Driver : I find that the bi-polar led's works best for track call lights as they can be switched between green / yellow / red and they take only the space of one led!

@ You make me feel very young by calling me boet! (and it is nice to hear from someone from the dark deep south of Africa
.)

Cheers!
 

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TeeKay,
That is fantastic... I know I read about other people considering this idea but you are the first to show some results.
Good on you!

Just so I understand correctly...
the footlights are drilled in the sides of the bridge UNDER the DUNLOP facia, right? And the wires run down and under the bridge?

I understand the other wiring but it only made sense to me to say the footlight wiring ran between the plastic panels.
Am I correct?

Marvelous work... keep it up and thanks for sharing.
Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@ Sealevel:

Yes you are correct that the holes are behind the panel. The 3mm led's are then inserted from the outside in order for it to protrude about 2mm to the pedestrian side of the bridge.

I used only 4 leds in a staggered format (2 on a side) as I tried to get a footlight effect and not a floodlight effect.


Maybe these pics will make it clear?





For the track call lights I had to add a piece of sprayed cardboard (on each side) sticking out 10mm as the ridge under the bridge is only 5mm and the leds (5mm) and led holders (outside dia of 8mm) are too big to fit in the 5mm ridge.

Cheers!
 

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Thanks for the pictures, TeeKay!

So does running the wires "outside" the footbridge make it difficult to reattach the DUNLOP fascia?

Thanks for sharing!
Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sealevel, no, the fascia is hollow on the inside.

If you keep the wires away from the attaching knobs, you will have no problem refitting the fascia.

Cheers!
 

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Thanks again, Teekay.

I look forward to your next great idea!

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi All,

I've been busy in last few months and haven't posted in a while....

Update pics on the bridge - added dunlop advert to bridge and some scenery.....













Cheers and enjoy!
 

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Prof I T
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hi
great update, i am now getting very near to doing something similar to my own bridges..

I am planning on a start light gantry housing the 5 reds and for the bridges there will be track call lights.

So flashing yellows when a car crashes and green for when the race has re-started..

I will be using led's with built in resistors,dont know if it's possible to buy bi_polar one's with these built in though..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Bigbird,

The bi-polar ones are used in the same way as normal LEDs. You need to limit the current as specified by LED manufacturer by means of a resistor depending on the supply voltage and the specs of the LED and number of LEDs in series . PM me for more info if needed.

Cheers!

Theo
 

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Prof I T
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hi
thanks for the offer TeeKay,i may of been a little unclear in my previous post but the led's i already purchased have got resistors built in you just connect them to the specified voltage..

They are that easy to use that i would rather house 2 green and 2 yellow per bridge than 2 bi polar one's that need resistors soldered in line..

I will take a look on the maplin website to see if they are available though..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bigbird,

Sorry for this the misunderstanding. It is nice if you can get LEDs with built in resistors.

Go for it an show us some pics!

Cheers!
 

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This is looking to be one of the top tracks in scenery and lighting! The Dunlop bridge lighting is great, good idea as has been said many times about track call lights on it! I love the little path leading from it too. I love a good lighting job of any kind. The suspension bridge looks cool (do the red lights work?), and I hope we see some more pics of that pit area and the lighting used/made over there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi JJJ

Thanks for the compliment!

Have a look at my track thread. Yes, the red lights on top of the bridge pillars are self blinking LED's.

Also have a look at my pitlane for more pics on the pitlane downlights - made of paper!

Enjoy!
 
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