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I was scared Id make a mess of it. I havent done the mosfets just the diodes.
Even with my failing vision for all things tiny, I was able to do it without too much fuss. Mine sit a little high -- I left a mm or 2 in length so there was room to get the iron in place.

Apply solder to the diode legs and then whilst holding it with thin nosed pliers gently push these down into place with soldering iron.

Magnifying glass would be a great help.

Go for it.

Half an hour or less, diodes only is big improvement.
 

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OK, thanks Drummer. I will try. I am looking for the right diodes at the moment at an online shop. The SB130 type I have found, but not the others, yet. Did you use the 20BQ type?

Regards,

Don Quislot
 

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Either mod can be done in isolation. The biggest performance improvement comes from changing the diodes. Any Schottky diode will be much better than the original silicon diodes. The best, best value for money and easiest to fit are the 20BQ3A16D diodes. The mosfet change is more for reliability than performance.

Rich
 

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Thanks for the great info! I keep reading about people turning up the voltage from 12 to 13, 14, 15+. Are any mods required to the powerbase to run the higher voltage? With stock digital Scalextric cars, would I need to mod the chips to run 13-14volts?
 

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QUOTE (CRR @ 9 Nov 2006, 11:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the great info! I keep reading about people turning up the voltage from 12 to 13, 14, 15+. Are any mods required to the powerbase to run the higher voltage? With stock digital Scalextric cars, would I need to mod the chips to run 13-14volts?

Tests with powerbase mod showed standard cars/chips took (6 cars, 2 powerbases) 30 volts, held flat for ten seconds, then powerbases overloaded. With one powerbase it was 21 volts. Cars took it well.
I personaly am not concerned to run a standard car as hard as I can on 18 volts. Never blown a chip or a powerbase doing this, believe it or not.
I can run a standard car/chip 18 volts for ages before my nose knows something is warming up, so I just back it off a little.
Its the 25K and 30 K motors that are the problem.
I usually only get ten minutes out of a 25K motor at 17 volts, then the smell, and the board is blown, but hey wow what a great ten minutes. I actually seen the board components glowing red once when it was melting. (bench test)

Cheers
 

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QUOTE (injectorman @ 9 Nov 2006, 00:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Tests with powerbase mod showed standard cars/chips took (6 cars, 2 powerbases) 30 volts, held flat for ten seconds, then powerbases overloaded.

So, are you saying that a powerbase mod is necessary to run voltages over 12v?
 

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for crr

have run 13.8 10 amp REGULATED pack for long while
no problem with stock chips with stock scaly motors
ALWAYS use two plugs into 6 car powerbase
mine came from ratshack
btw
when not usin it for digital
it powers 4 lane analog revell
 

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QUOTE (CRR @ 9 Nov 2006, 18:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>So, are you saying that a powerbase mod is necessary to run voltages over 12v?

No, Im saying for a normal 18K Mabuchi motor the standard chip is fine and a standard powerbase is fine. And that the Mabuchi standard motors can take lots of volts.
My only problem arises when I up the motor size.
Hope this clears things up.
Injectorman

QUOTE (NASCARUSA @ 10 Nov 2006, 00:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Injectorman.........seems you need a Rich chip.They may stall,but they dont stop,and I can say they have withstood some hard crashes.
Greg

Hi Greg,
What voltages do you run? I find with my track just upping the voltage to 16 even 18 volts is fast enough. have tried big motors for fun, but generally stick with std motors.
Cheers
 

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Thanks for the clarification. I need to switch out my power supplies. I have a variable 13A supply I've been using to drive my battery chargers for R/C the last few years and a converted PC supply fixed at 12V 7A I put on the track.
 

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Whoooaaahhhh
Two-legged creepy crawlers are taking over my chip




Well, the mod succeeded. These were the only Schottky diodes (3 A/ 50 V) that I could lay my hands on for now. They are a bit big, aren't they? The car is a lot faster now, so I have to try harder to keep it in the slot
.

In the process of taking off the old diodes, I tore away some of the solder spots on the board. Thats why some of the S.diodes legs are attached to each other.

Greetings,

Don Quislot
 

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Just to let you Speed freaks know, im sadly leaving Digital, and 1 of the chips rich did for me is up for sale, the other is going to SlotKing, sorry rich, never had anything powerful enough to see benefits...

Matt
 

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Hi everyone,

With the hot weather we've been having in Australia recently, I was finding that my Slot.IT SSD chips were having the same problem as the Scaley ones - stalling for a few seconds after 10 or so pedal-to-the-metal hot laps


This was with just the std. orange Slot.IT motors, and a 13.8V PSU.

The symptoms were identical as those described in this thread for the Scaley SSD chips - they would run fine with the body off, but, stall momentarily after a few laps with the body back on - mostly after backing off at the end of my 2nd straight.

So, I embarked on the RichG diode upgrade process.

I used some of the 20BQ030PBF Schottky diodes RichG suggested and I'm happy to report the problem has now disappeared on my Slot.IT cars.

Not to mention the performance improvement (its like winding the PSU up a couple of extra volts, but, without the associated problems of overloading the components in the PB and the chips)

So far, I haven't found it necessary to do the MOSFET upgrade on the Slot.IT SSD chips.

So for anyone out there using the Slot.IT SSD chips - if you find the same problem occurring under under the right conditions (i.e. hot weather and > 12 V PSU) - the solution is to upgrade the diodes to the sweet little Schottky ones RichG suggested earlier in this thread.

I've also found the following SMD Diode SM5822B Schottky 40V 3A (available at Jaycar) to work well too:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...=&SUBCATID=

Now that I've experienced the performance improvement for myself, from now on I'll be upgrading the diodes on both my Scaley SSD and Slot.IT chips as soon as I remove them from the packet.

Hats off to RichG and NASCARUSA for coming up with an awesome solution.

Cheers,

AudiTTR
 
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