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So, given the old thread is getting a bit cumbersome I thought I'd start a new one after the long silence....

I've been planning this now for about 6 months or more ever since I 'completed' the first chassis.

Even as I was completing the last chassis and starting to fit the bodywork I realised that although a lot of things had worked there were SO many things that needed to be totally rethought that it was best to start a new chassis, which I am calling VW2 after the original specification. I'm not sure yet if that'll be a 1958 or 1957 car but I'm erring on the side of 1957 due to the availability of (and purchase of) wire wheels.

Anyway as is my want I drew everything out in accurate detail in Autocad. I continued to tweak this for many months and in May started to get information as to where I could get the main components, as I thought, laser cut and then after some advice acid etched.
So here's a drawing of the front end assembly....

IMG_2489.JPG

And one showing how the suspension travel will work....

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And then one showing the various bits I needed to cut out.....

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Well that didn't work out to due prohibative cost for having single items acid etched so in the end I printed the bits out, taped them to some brass sheet, chain drilled on Graham's pillar drill one night last week and after a total of about 4 hours had exactly what I'd been trying to achieve by acid etching for 4months! Well, not EXACTLY the same but as near as damn it. So I saved myself £120....... and got the satisfaction that this is truly hand made.....

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Then I cleaned them up, bent them, filed and sanded them, and these photos show the various stages of assembly.....

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The final product currently looks like this....

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And for comparison purposes....

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As you can see I have decided not to follow the good advice offered me in the previous thread as I want the wheels to turn always and only int he direction of the guide, so they will be linked directly rather than opting for the 'trailing link' system suggested before. This should eliminate problems of countersteer and / or wheels lifting off the track and therefore pointing in the wrong direction.

Now, I've been assembling parts too and have decided to go for Pendle's wire wheels as they seem to be about right, well for the rear's anyway. The fronts needed serious modification to get them narrow enough. Lacking a lathe I hand filed the outer rim width and the tyre rebate, as well as the inner rim width both externally and internally in order to get the right proportion....

So now the wheels are ready too and for comparison look like this....

IMG_2492.JPG

That's all for this weekend I'm afraid - now I'm going to embark on the chassis in order to get these bits mounted up so I can begin some preliminary testing, before moving onto the internal and external body detailing!

Andi
 

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Great work Andi! This and your fan car have been pretty much the only offerings of this kind on here lately. Keep us posted
 

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I'll echo Marlons sentiments there! Where are all the scratchbuilders at the moment? Are they all so old that they're all in hibernation??

G.
 

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mac pinches
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Andi thats a fine looking beast you have there.
Will you be bringing it to Early Birds next year, it dose not matter if
its not finished, it would be good to see it in what ever state it may be.
Cheers
Mac P
 

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Dave Capelen
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QUOTE Are they all so old that they're all in hibernation??

Yes....
it's that time of year. Working on next year's cars from next week though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys for the comments, coming from you it sure means something!

Yes Mac, its for Early b's. If its not finished I wont be coming- and I AM coming if you catch my drift. ...... Pun intended.

I'll be starting the chassis real soon.

Andi

PS i noticed too everyone is sleeping, or maybe trying to be secretive?
 

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Martin De Ath
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Andi, the Vanwall looks like its a great project, excellent brasswork, keep up the good work, will follow your build with intrest..

All the best.. Martin De'Ath.
 

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So the chassis is coming together bit by bit....... the tubes are 1mm dia. for the main members and 0.8mm dia. for the triangulation.

Its pretty small stuff and makes the first chassis look distinctly chunky. As I started I doubted it would be strong enough but now most of the members are in the real space frame effect is working out and its really strong.

When finished I'm going to weigh it....

Starting with the first top and bottom frames.....

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Then getting the two to fit together.....

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And nearly complete now......

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and so you can see I never work alone......

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Cheers

Andi
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Graham, i wont be competing with you on external finish but i'm happy with how the engineering side is going.

I sure respect your opinion so thanks again.

Have just completed the chassis and it weighs ...... 4grammes.
 

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Al Schwartz
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Fascinating project - I've been watching the initial and continuation threads with great interest. I would not even think of trying to emulate the elaborate fret work in your brass sections for motor/axle mount and front end - that level of patience and manual dexterity is, for me, long forgotten.

I do have one suggestion should you be brave enough to do a space frame chassis again: consider using stainless steel hypodermic tubing instead of brass - it offers several advantages

It is stronger
For equivalent size it is lighter and for equivalent strength, lighter yet
In this type of application, the soldering is easier. With an appropriate acid flux, it solders very well and, because it is a poor conductor of heat, there are far fewer problems with loosening joints adjacent to the one being done.

I buy mine from a company in Florida - Small Parts Inc. but I would imagine that there is a European equivalent.

EM
 

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Indeed there are. I recently visited one of my local model shops and alongside the usual K&S stand there was a similar display from Albion Alloys. The fineness of some of the brass tubes was quite mind blowing. Much, much finer than the K&S offerings. I recently did a search for Albion Alloys, but by the looks of it, it's that new, the site hasn't been updated. I'd be tempted to have a go myself, but I think i've got enough plates spinning as it is.

Graham.
 

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Fascinating car! It appears you are using a soldering gun though. Might I suggest using a small butane torch to clean up the joints. Doing so will make the joints smooth and uniform.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks EM for your tip, I had no idea about that material so will check it out...... Next time. If there is one.

Sooo much knowledge in this forum if you can find it!

On the first build I used a gas flame but actually found it less controlable. It tended to heat everything however careful I was which is why I ended up with BIG solder blobs. Instead my dad's old soldering iron is just so much more controllable for those multiple joints. I guess a lot is about experience!

Wish there were decent model shops here...... Nobody has a shed so nobody makes anything so no modelling materials.

Now how am I going to mount that suspension???

Andi
 

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A good tip with those gas torches I've found is to only put enough gas in them to provide a tiny flame. With that you can control things really well. I keep two- one is topped up with gas which gives full blast for big plate soldering jobs. When it runs down I use it for critical small jobs, and use my other one with a full charge for the big stuff. Always in rotation! They're cheap enough so it's not as extravagant as it sounds.
 

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Senior Slot Car Mechanic
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QUOTE which is why I ended up with BIG solder blobs
Solder blobs have nothing to do with heat source, you are simply using too much solder.

Joints should be mechanically tight, and, only enough solder applied to wick into the joint. Using excess solder to try and build up fillets in the corners will actually make a weaker joint, and, not add strength as most people think. Large solder fillets give cracks a place to start, and, once started, easily spread right through the joint itself.
 
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