Is it not a realistic reflection of the American car's inablity to corner?
Here's my downforce measurer. Not pretty, but it works. It's composed of three elements:I would also be interested as to how you set up a magnetic force instrument, could be a valuable diagnostic tool.
Yes, the ferromagnetic ballast used to tweak the magnet's magnetic field goes inside the car, touching the magnet or very close to it. In Carrera cars, I had good results by placing one of Carrera's standard rectangular magnet shims at an angle on top of the magnet so that it also touched the can of the motor. Sometimes two shims were better than one, sometimes a round washer had better results. Experimentation is the key.I take it the paperclip sits on the inside of the car?
In my book, traction magnets are sad full stop, but the solution is simple: remove them. Harder to deal with are motors with high magnetic downforce. The cars which are fastest in standard form on my track are Avant Slot Mirage GR8s and Spirit Peugeot 405 Silhouttes, both of which have highly magnetic motors. Fun for a handful of laps, but thereafter a bit dull.Anything more than 150 g downforce is sad.
It was a long time ago and I've just remembered that Carrera cars are inline, so I couldn't have touched the magnet and the motor with a shim and must be mistaken about the car used. Having thought about it, I'm pretty sure it was a Scalextric Camaro that I did this to, as one of the magnet classes I was racing in was Trans-Am using Scalextric and Pioneer cars, which are sidewinders. Whatever car it was, the principle is the same for any car with a traction magnet: experimentation. There is a good gain to be had.In Carrera cars, I had good results by placing one of Carrera's standard rectangular magnet shims at an angle on top of the magnet so that it also touched the can of the motor.