[cbwho]

Aurora Vibrators that is, slot cars to be more specific for those with wandering minds...

The one I bought on eBay is missing the push rod. The seller said it runs on 20 VAC.

Now get this, we actually got the car to run on DC without the push rod. Simply because we didn't know any better. If the bottom vibrator contact point tab is set lightly, the hammering of the top reed will vibrate the whole car and make it work! Interestingly, the car didn't have smooth throttle, it was more of an off/on situation.

 

[cbwho]

What is the proper length of the push rod? What material is it made of? Steel? Brass?

 

[model murdering]

I can walk you through the Vibes.Dont run it without the rod. You risk over heating and frying the coil if the points stick closed. Then it's over. You must have a consistent make and break. They require 24 (not 20) volts to operate correctly. AC or DC, they dont care. T-jet power @ 18 v is a 25% power reduction, and that matters with vibes. They rods are real similar to nylatron. They're supposed to be an NWI (normal wear item). You dont want a metal one chowing on the reed or contact spring. Wheels, tires, and axles must be perfect, the vibe doesnt have enough torque to overcome lumpy out of round junk.

Slice the rail off a porked out gear plate. Chuck them up, and buzz them down to shape. A gear plate will yield a few. I forget the length, until I measure one.

There's more ...

 

[RichD]

McMaster-Carr sells Delrin and Nylon rod stock, the smallest diameter is 3/16th inch. That would have to be turned down to the proper size. If you did a search you might be able to locate a supplier that has the rod in the correct diameter. In a pinch you could use anything that is not magnetic, like 316 SS, or brass. Metal rod would be heavier than plastic, of course.

 

[model murdering]

I've got a dozen Vibes or so these days, and had them as a pup. From mint to partially restored, I still tinker when I find parts or inspiration. The stock actuator rod is .325" x .060"

RD: "In a pinch you could use anything that is not magnetic, like 316 SS, or brass."

Vibes are peculiar little devils. Wink wink, the rod might be non-conductive for a reason. Dont ever use metal. The conductive alloy chassis is ground, and used as one leg of the circuit path ! ...and thus so is the reed that is screwed into it. A metal rod would bypass the actuator points and create a dead short across the pick ups. Take the breaker plate off the bottom and study the circuit carefully. Note where the breaker plate side contact interfaces the insulated coil contact/input. This area has to be clean, not green. Careful around that wire!

This is also why you have to watch that the contact shunt/spring on the beaker plate does not short to the chassis. Commonly bent, but not in your case, because the coil grunts. Dats gut!

Again, if the material is too hard, the reed and actuator spring get planished quickly. Like a brass pinion getting a groove pounded into it by a plastic crown. Additionally there's the racket factor, of which there are two considerations for vibes, both of which relate to the reed.

Good breaker plates and reeds are finite. Often a feeding frenzy and always sell. Be prepared to part with a little coin. You seldom see Vibe parts relisted.

Beware! The small T-jet like rims are near 50% junk. Waaay off center. MEV makes one that fits.

Sounds like you have a runner, what you need is the correct rod, and we can motor ahead from there. Somewhere in the ether is a piece by Harry Harnish on the Vibes if you want to "reed up". I have more on reed adjustment, which makes the difference between just grinding along wounded; and actually getting one up on the pipe.

Which model did you score?!

 

[cbwho]

Thanks to all of you helpers.

The car goes quickly and has great throttle response. ☺The key was (0.325 inch = 8.255 millimeters) and coaxing the bottom contact to have sufficient pressure.

I used Evergreen polystyrene rod since I have it handy. It's a soft plastic so I may have to replace it more often. My brother happened to be placing an order with ratherboring so will have nice replacements soon.

I used AW front tires all around since it fills the wheels so well.

 

[Steve-E-D]

It looks great with those tires!

 

[RichD]

My brain must be cooked! In my defense it has been 60 years since I handled a vibrator car. I will have to make a note of the dimensions of the push rod. Maybe a length of #9 spaghetti would work for a few seconds. Good reproduction small Aurora wheels are available in many colors, but not chromed.

 

[HDK]

small Aurora wheels are available in many colors, but not chromed

Maybe the Molotow liquid chrome markers could solve that.

Liquid Chrome - Markers

shop.molotow.com

 

[Steve-E-D]

Good reproduction small Aurora wheels are available in many colors, but not chromed.

Liquid chrome works amazing.
I got some NOS TJet chassis from SCC with "faded chrome". They look like new again now.

Amazon.com : Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker Set - 1mm, 2mm and 4mm : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Amazon.com : Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker Set - 1mm, 2mm and 4mm : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

www.amazon.com

 

[Steve-E-D]

Great minds think alike.

 

[model murdering]

My brain must be cooked! In my defense it has been 60 years since I handled a vibrator car. I will have to make a note of the dimensions of the push rod. Maybe a length of #9 spaghetti would work for a few seconds. Good reproduction small Aurora wheels are available in many colors, but not chromed.

Hahahaha! You could use red oil for the Marinara. Without a Ceasar and real garlic bread? Im out!

A chunk of swizzle stick off a spray can like WD-40 works!

Point of order?

The original vibe wheels where painted silver. Vaccu-plated came later. The MEV chrome reverse look nice, and have a much higher incidence of being round. They also have less lip and provide more rim with for hides.

You can run chrome T-jet rims, but the rim is considerably wider than the Vibe. You have to use a skinny tire. I like the Super Tire standard 3/8" T-jet replacement for the rear, if you use a T-jet rim.

 

[Gripping Pneus]

The MEV chrome reverse look nice, and have a much higher incidence of being round.

The mind boggles! I'm glad I mainly build 1/32nd!

 

[KensRedZed]

The mind boggles! I'm glad I mainly build 1/32nd!

I run both scales. I like to scratch build 1/32.

1/32 plastic wheels can wobble just as badly as HO wheels. Policar plastic wheels really shocked me considering everyone raves about the cars.

The magnets hide many imperfections. We run on a routed track so magnets can't help. Any problems with the car will jump out at you. Especially wobbly wheels.

We allow aluminum wheels, and the glueing and trueing of urethane tires on our stock 1/32 TransAm class, and most other classes. You'll be hard pressed to find a box-stock TransAm car that doesn't vibrate down the 19-foot straights. Everyone got tired of having to buy half a dozen cars just to get one smooth winner.

 

[cbwho]

Did some more tuning of the 2 I have. I recently got another, the seller said it was excellent and it works. Interestingly, it only buzzed when it arrived, at least now it goes. My faster one now goes very fast. The trick? I point a drop of oil on the big drum. I noticed it now coasts more.

For those who has owned these before it is probably obvious to oil that big drive gear.