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Wankel's Bought Another Hornby

2482 Views 20 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  slik
Okay, I've not seen this mentioned before so I guess it's just me getting the lemon again, isn't it?

Corvette L88.

Purchased and delivered super quick off Ebuy. Arrived yesterday, race night. Nice.

Delivered in one piece! Nothing had fallen off in transit. Nicer!

So, swiftly out of the box then and thoughts of a quick fettle before going racing.

A quick fettle my ****!

After undoing the six screws I couldn't see how to separate the body and chassis. They seemed inextricably linked in a death grip at the front. Peering around the wheel arches it appeared that the lighting wires were running underneath the front axle before heading up to the little circuit board.

Ah, ha!

So, off with the front wheels, no easy task, slide out the axle and...

Ah!

The two were still one. Odd. Those wires are clearly supposed to be under the axle.

But there was a black piece of plastic stretching from one body post to the other like some kind of 1:32nd strut brace. Presumably, since the screws go through this and into the posts it had become stuck to the body.

So separating that would bring a heavenly release from the death grip.

NO!

Still the two infernal moldings were conjoined.

Shaking my fists at the Gods above me,

"Why do I buy Scalextric product", I screamed.

"Not suitable for children under 3 years," I bellowed.

"My ***!", I ruminated.

I calmed.

I looked at the problem again.

Ah, ha!

It would appear that the source of my woes was an unfeasibly tight fit between the bulbs and their recesses in the bodywork.

Brute force and ignorance duly applied and I beheld two assemblies at last. Phew.

Now then. Would someone at Margate please pop down to the shops, pick up an SCX lighted car and see how this remarkably simple concept, lights in toy cars, can be and is achieved by the competition.

P.s. The sit of the chassis is so carp the rears rub on the arches. Fantastic.
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I've heard that the bodies on the L88 can be buggers to remove/refit on another thread, so your not the only one.

I'm too scared to take mine apart, and it runs fine, so I'll leave it as put until I need to fiddle inside.
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just as well that I have not tried to take the corvette apart then

The latest one does not have lights at all so... - no I have put it away will not challenge it yet

//peter
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I'm trying to think if I've ever taken mine apart.

Either there was no pain and I used brain over brawn, or they're still intact.
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mine was/is a nightmare to take apart. I hadn't realised that 'not taking it apart' was an option
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I did manage to take mine apart and put it back together to remove the magnet and put some weight in but the lights were awkward. The headlight lenses pop out and that may help.

SCX play it safe by only fitting lights into squarish shaped cars. Scalextric do play a more dangerous game in this respect by fitting lights into all sorts of wierd and wonderful shapes and it must be a challenge for the model designers. The light units on the Vette are harder than those on the Mercedes DTM car to remove and refit.

SCX do not have full interiors and their system would not work if they did.

Assuming that you purchased the open top "Nr 1" Vette you must agree that a full interior on this car is a "must have" and is well up with the best as far as interior detail goes.

Strange that you have rubbing tyres though.


Moped
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I've not taken mine apart (goes fast enough for me out of the box thank you!).

But - I have had problems putting my gold GT40 back together after opening it to move the magnet. Clipping the back section over the exhaust was a nightmare!
7
I am now (as of last night @ Pendle) the proud owner of a No.1 open top scaley 'vette. Even with a bit of body rock, the rear tyres do not rub the arches on my example. SIX screws!!!!?? the two screws in the middle which hold the interior to the chassis are now in my spare parts bag
I too notice the front strut brace
it's hard to miss! What that brace does is locate the lights on the Corvettes which have them AND prevent the self-centring guide spring from popping up out of it's location. If you leave the spring in place and try to loosen the screws for body rock then the spring will indeed pop out. Seeing as I've removed the spring (too strong IMHO) then everything is tickety boo
The tyres were quite round, once I'd seated them correctly so didn't need too much truing.

For those people with lighted L88s, well lights in the front at any rate, it should be an easy conversion back to flush bodywork should you so wish. The No.1 has flat panels which just locate in the holes for the front lights and "headlamp glass". I may just be buying 2 braklight kits, because the rear of the No.1 is crying out for them. No worries over power usage because brake lights only come on when you're coming off the power anyway



Mark.

If you hadn't already sussed it out, I love this version of the 'Vette
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QUOTE (Wankel Ickx @ 28 Apr 2004, 19:37)Now then. Would someone at Margate please pop down to the shops, pick up an SCX lighted car and see how this remarkably simple concept, lights in toy cars, can be and is achieved by the competition.
NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

If Scalextric happen to pick up an SCX Dome and copy it, then we'll never see a Scalextric car with working lights again!!!!

(Yes I know youwere talking about body fit but......)
I haven't bought a car for a little while but it would appear that the much needed little disassembly and reassembly diagram could save some heartache and possibly broken cars when applying the infamous brute force at the wrong time or in the wrong place.

So a gentle reminder to Adria Norman of Scalextric, who was going to look at this aspect in view of the greater complexity and precision design of modern cars.
Please, Adrian!
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QUOTE The headlight lenses pop out and that may help
They are supposed to be that way? I just cursed the darn things for coming of too easy, and glued them back on...

Never had any problems with tire rubbing on the two that I have. Only downside with them is the problems taking them apart.
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Yes, the Vette is a pain to dis/reassemble I have gotten used to it, generally hooking the body over the front lights and carefully stuffing the rear together!
The TVR is no picnic either . The GT40 is nothing compared to these two. Once one remembers to start by hooking the rear over the exhaust, it can be gently snapped together in the front. My all-time favorite for torture is the Hornby Renualt F-1 car lately in the club. Like a bad jigsaw puzzle in the dark! I found a small tack-hammer works best when swung quickly and sharply to the top of the car.
This technique make for easy access to the innards of the car. Be sure and wear goggles when using this method. Safety first!


Cheers!
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Ah yes... You cannot beat the occasional bit of Percussive Maintenance!!
I must have got a good 'vette then. I only have to jiggle the front of the chassis to locate everything.


Mark.
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Had the same problems as wankel with my two vettes as i always take them apart on purchasing just to have a look <perverse maybe>.
about a half hour later still no closer to getting them back together and wondering why the hell i ever took them apart the eight year old stepped in an hey presto back together in what seemed like seconds !!!!!

What is it with small nimble fingers and the unwelcome "dad why u so red in the face and sweating?"

The scaley gt40 was much the same not so much a slot car as the hardest 3D jigsaw puzzle in the world !!!

kev an the rocket scientist connor !!!!
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the vettes are a tricky puzzle, but the one that has confounded me the most so far is the SCX Jaguar F1. It was months before i figured how to get that one apart!
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Forgot to add tho the vettes go like stink and had some great races with them.

God forbid if they ever go wrong they just scare me !!
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So, it ain't just me. Well that's some sort of consolation.

No, I don't think the lenses are supposed to pop out. Unlike my Scaley DTM, where the things exited with unseemly and ungracious haste, these seem stubbornly welded in place and have remained so despite some pretty frantic, violent and damn frustrating moments.

There is no way Hosé that I will ever get bodyrock with this sucker. Ultimately, that may be down to the lights being recessed but certainly the tight fit of the body and chassis ain't going to help matters - do your cars have easy movement at the front, where the black "grill" section of the chassis marries up to, and between, the curving front wings? Until I filed away a lot here, this was a swine of a union and tighter than a snakes ass in a wagon rut.

Hmmm, the tyre rubbing appears to be unique to me, though. I did find last night that if I fix the rearmost screws in first I can get a little more air between the boots and the body but the front end ain't happy and takes some persuading to link up. I fancy the smaller gap I get like this is still going to cause trouble once the car is in motion and the wheels spinning at speed - my Fly M3 looks like it shouldn't give any grief but does once you give it some loud pedal. I'll take the file to the arches too.

Hands up. I forgot the SCX Dome saga. Keep meaning to get some conducting paint to repair the circuit board. But at least the body comes apart without frustration.

I don't recall thinking the Dome a particularly boxy shape either - that's just a copout. I don't think the full cockpit arguement works either.

Frankly, anything would be better than what I've got in this lighted L88 and that's a shame because more and more, everytime I look at the beast, it's looks grow on me.
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Some of the kids run these at the club and have them apart and back together between races. I`m sure that a diagram is needed as I struggled recently with a scalex F1 renault. My point would be that the cars run superbly but are starting to get complicated in their construction.
I feel duty bound, since I slag off Margate no end, to now share with the wider slot world that the L88 mentioned above has been the subject of some serious fettling - as serious as I get - and now is a total 'stang eater.

I filed the arches and the bit at the sharp end where the 'grill' sits. I settled the mugnut in the centre (modern Scaleys run with magnets at Oxford) and softened, trued and rounded out the tyres. I then gave it some prodigious running in and hey presto.

I did have a problem with duff pick-up in the corners which I finally attributed to the braids being squished.

Much more work than I have ever had to do with a car before but now she flies.
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Hey Wankel! Is that the one that had the unfortunate meet and greet session with the wooden floor at the club last night?


Looked like a great runner untill that unfortunate introducing to hard wood.

see you on tuesday!

Doug
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