[PSRRFH]

I was asking because you use them a bit different than I normally see round the forum. ( I do like it)

Are you running magnet or non magnet ?
(I never have problems with R1 and no-mag cars)

You should check this build thread for inspiration
Cool Build

Looking forward for progress on this "Switchblade" track.

chips

 

[hankscorpio]

QUOTE (PSRRFH @ 8 Jan 2010, 09:00) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I was asking because you use them a bit different than I normally see round the forum. ( I do like it)
Are you running magnet or non magnet ?
chips

Ah yeah you got me... I am not a purist in any form... to get a decent race with "friends and family" de magging cars leads to iminent disaster and a very boring evening of grumpy faces and lots of broken cars

guess thats what comes from racing after a few drinks in the city... really shouldn't drink and drive! for me slot cars is social... not a race... (especially if i lose)..

So yep magnets for me... and to get full throttle out of a circuit in a space only 3 Metres long it takes lots of tuning of track flow and the tuning of SOME cars to allow people to pick up and play... then I have "MY" cars... now they are de magged for solo sessions against the clock... and the track flow comes into its own...

by the way I found the vids of "Well Mountain" on you tube last year before i knew of the forum... It blew me away... I really liked the way you had used the goodwood chicaine against the mountainside and the way those pit lanes have been used to create the city loop... and those flagstones...oh my god... I will do some scenic work this time but not like that... keep up the good work! Oh yeah thanks for the inspiration lars... its already cost me over a £1000!

I guess what makes my approach different is when i first lay down the track I spend a good few hours tweaking the design to get roughly the same lap time achievable in both lanes, the length is irrelevant... its making each lap the same in time which i place importance on for fun racing...

Later today my magnet infested NASCAR setup hits the forum... will explain more in there

I can almost see the pained expressions on some faces! MAGNETS

 

[hankscorpio]

The Flatland Oval Raceway...

The saddest thing about this track design was knowing before I started that a "Tri-oval" style layout that I really wanted was beyond my space considerations. With that in mind I decided that it would be aimed at the less experienced of my friends... It was going to be 4 car using a std powerbase (until the 7042 is released at least) and use a C7039 lap counter...and the "pit lane game" Although testing would be done with my trusty 6 car unit...

I won't bother boring you with a diagram of the board... it's simply a 10x 3 square with a maximum 7cm depth... This gives a maximum scale scenery height of about 7ft and therefore limits the maximum tilt angle of the banking. I had planned to use Scalextric "R2 Banked curves" which i had stored in a cupboard until i finally picked up a couple of Nascars from a local retailer at £25 each... the pit lane game had been picked up off ebay for £17 both Great prices!

Using the cars for the first time i had an awful shock, on a two lane setup the inner lane was so much slower (3.2 sec lap) than the outer lane (2.4 Sec) which could lean on the characteristic wall on the outside of the curve. This means that on a two lane setup that the only reason toi leave the outside lane was to use the pit lane and it would be impossible to overtake a car in the outside lane. The .8 second lap difference (25% faster) was a disaster... I immediately went to my spares box and pulled a couple of magnets from some old cars and double magged them... this helped close the gap to .4 seconds... so i ordered some silicone tyres... some stronger magnets (10 for £5) and some weaker ones (10 for £3.50) after spending several hundred on track a few pounds on tuning parts seemed like a good investment... all I could do was sit back and wait for them to arrive...in the meantime I worked on the GT1 setup.

So Last night I began laying out the track, it was a combination of designs from people who had offered help with the speed difference problems... The Lap counter will actually go into the layout where the powerbase is shown and the powerbase will go on the back straight..

The inner lane is 545 cm, The middle lane 593 cm, The outer lane is 641 cm... a massive 96cm (18%) difference!

The idea of the "cut and shut" outer lane was to slow the middle lane by prevent it from riding on the barriers... The design fortunately only used bits i already had in my spares box.. so no investment required... I decided to do the first build on a "Flat" basis as there was no easy way to support the third lane using the standard Scalextric supports and crossed my fingers...

Firstly I fitted the new silicone tyres and then abandoned the twin standard "Scalextric" magnets in favour of one large one as the two magged cars were slowed severely by the drag and i feared for the longevity of the motor! One large magnet was ok but the "breakaway" was very severe when the magnet swung too far... So tried again this time with two smaller magnets front and rear.. (sliding the smaller 1mm wide magnet fully to the left of the slot as Nascars only turn left!).. I switched on the powerbase and the car was immediately more "spritely" without the extra drag and started lapping on the inside lane... the car was averaged at 2.5seconds. I switched to the middle lane and amazingly it averaged around 2.5 seconds... so onto the outer lane "switchback" which could be taken at full throttle and as if by magic the lap speed averaged 2.5 seconds... Somehow I had fluked a setup with the cars that meant overtaking could be done now on the Inside or outside of a car!

Obviously the relative speeds of the car... the inner car is lapping at 4.9mph and requires some careful driving to keep the speed at 2.5 seconds, the centre lane car is travelling at 5.3mph and needs some care or the car will fishtail and lose speed the outer lane travels at 5.7mph... this should make for some quite scary overtaking manoeuvres on the straight lane changers as cars jockey their speeds and chopping from the outside lane to the inner one to use the pit lane game requires a requisite drop in speed and an element of skill i hadn't predicted!

You have an opportunity to go between the faster outer two lanes twice per lap.. With a "chicaine" type arrangement on those two lanes to add some excitement... the inner lane can only be switched into and out of once per lap... Half a lap before the pit entry to give cars a chance to slow down enough to use the pit entry and on immediately exiting the pits to get back into the racing lanes... Obviously you can lap on the inside lane but maintaining a 2.5 second lap consistently is not as easy as it is in the other lanes but you do avoid the risk of being hit in the chicaine!

So miraculously with a design twist on one MrFlippant suggested some low power magnets bought on a whim and some decent tyres the track does everything i could have hoped for it!... The only real issue i had was when switching to the 4 car powerbase to run a test...

Having the powerbase only connected to the two inner lanes the track relies on the flippers to conduct the current to the outer lane which meant that it only received about 60% of the power needed... Obviously when building the layout permanently i will have to run a power tap... but it caught me by surprise just how much current got "lost" relying on lane changers alone.

So with both of those layouts "boxed up" I have spent the rest of the day putting stuff on Ebay that I will no longer need... Will spend a snowy weekend tucked in the warm planning the last of the three layout designs as snow is forecast again for us tomorrow!

Guess I learn something new every time i try a new design... part of the fun of slot cars!

Any comments or observations on the last two layouts appreciated as I will be starting work "proper" on the woodwork hopefully next week...

Sean

 

[hankscorpio]

A little help please

Of the many people who have taken the time to view this thread can i just canvas a few opinions...

As the NASCAR cuircuit has to be built first to allow this idea to work, so I have some pressing decisions to make...

this is the type of oval that inspired the build..

Bristol Motor Speedway
Track Shape: Concrete Oval
Track Length: .533 miles (My layout is .128 miles... 1/4 scale)
Front Stretch Length: 650 feet
Banking: 24-30˚on Turns 5-8˚on Straightaways
Seating Capacity: 160,000
Opened: 1961

The track is intended to be scenic... but using "toy" parts... no track painting or weathering of buildings and cars for example but...

If I bank the track more than 5 degrees there is not enough height for the characteristic "Wall" with chain link fence above... this means abandoning the scalextric banked track supports and building them from scratch... Not a problem but a little time consuming...

I have drawn a scale diagram so i could get the feel of what i am trying to build

Obviously the 5 degrees reflects the banking at this track on the straights but is far from the 24degrees of the 1:1 track...

Would it be better (and easier) to leve the track flat and concentracte on the scenics....

or

do you think the banking is important to the feel of the circuit and any representation 5 degrees or whatever is better than nothing... obvously more than 5 degrees and there is not enough height for the wall and fence...

Any build like this is a compression of the real thing and as it is 1/4 scale in length will 1/4 of the banking height be to scale?

If I go much higher in the banking there will be no space for the LED's on top of the fence posts to light the circuit, night racing is a big part of NASCAR...

Any views gladly taken... any advice happily recieved

Sean

 

[Ember]

Hmmmm.... Interesting problem. I do think you really need banking. Any banking. Otherwise it's not a NASCAR circuit, it's just a flat oval.

Sorry, it's not much help. My head is trying to think of a better way around your problem, but it isn't find one.

Embs

 

[Bam]

I would make sure the banking doesn't affect the lap times either for each lane, I would try to do a makeshift "prop" to test.

With regard to a "scale" banking. 24 degrees is 24 degrees. It would be like saying "I am building a square house with corner angles of 90 degress, at 1/4 the size, so i will have the corners at 22.5 degrees on the model"

You could make a removeable chainlink fence. Some mesh with poles attached then "tubes" or something on the back of the walls to locate the fence? Would add a few minutes to your set up time but you get what you want then.

 

[Graham Lane]

I've been watching this thread with utter fascination. What a great idea, and the planning is awesome. I've been wanting to build a Nascar circuit for some time so will be very interested to see how it goes with a full fleet of cars. Great fun, I imagine!

 

[Ember]

Bam's solution of add on fencing is a good one, although it means longer setup times. It still allows for full banking, which is really what the whole NASCAR oval is about. Full banking means full speed.

 

[hankscorpio]

QUOTE (Bam @ 9 Jan 2010, 10:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I would make sure the banking doesn't affect the lap times either for each lane, I would try to do a makeshift "prop" to test.

If it wasn't for the snow I would have gone to the "big local model shop" and got some balsa to make a prop system... May walk into the city tomorrow and buy some from "langleys" toy shop and bank one end as a test... but they are a bit pricy for balsa! and some "ferraris"

I know its going off topic but has any body seen this..... MRE Scalextric tradeshow visit The thing that worried me the most was the "Ferrari stuation" Quote: "There are Ferraris in the 2010 range but they cannot be marketed. Why ? Because Carrera now have an exclusive licence for all Ferrari slot cars and all of the SCALEXTRIC production must be produced and released in the first half of the year. Whatever remains at 30th June must be abandoned and destroyed"....... so probably gonna go pick up the few ferraris i do want while they are still on the shelves... the collectors are going to wet themselves!

QUOTE (Bam @ 9 Jan 2010, 10:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You could make a removeable chainlink fence. Some mesh with poles attached then "tubes" or something on the back of the walls to locate the fence? Would add a few minutes to your set up time but you get what you want then.

I love the removable poles idea... Only problem is.... I was planning to run the wires for the LED's up the centre of the poles... If i could find a flexible enough fence i suppose i could "hinge the fence posts... put 2 small magnets on them to hold them "up" and use them to transfer the current... from a "ring main" under the track... mmm

Has anybody used these fencing products?: Slot track Fence Kit - FK-2: Straight fence kit is now available. The benefits of the straight fence kit is that fitting is easier without the need for wires at the top section of the stanchions makes these kit easier for non permanent track layouts. As with the FK 1, for fitting you can buy some of our fixing clips for use with plastic track (CFP) or wooden track (CFW). You can also purchase additional straight stanchions (SS10) in packs of 10... The fence kits (FK 2) have 10 of our new angled stanchions and a roll of mesh 1.75 metres long by 70 mm wide. They also include instructions on how to assemble it. Note the picture shows the fence its self being painted in grey. Item comes green in colour.... LD Discounts - Slot car fencing

QUOTE (Bam @ 9 Jan 2010, 10:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>With regard to a "scale" banking. 24 degrees is 24 degrees. It would be like saying "I am building a square house with corner angles of 90 degress, at 1/4 the size, so i will have the corners at 22.5 degrees on the model"

Thought about this issue a lot today... and we must remember that when we scale things we decide what it is we are scaling...

I kind of agree with you but when you think about the "scale" issue....To get the corners to be to scale they would need to be "Radius 8" which would be Radius of 4'6" or require a board of 9ft diameter/width... this would give a corner circumference of (2 x pi x R) of 28ft or 3'6" to the 45 degree point of the curve... From the 5 degree banking on the straight this is roughly a 20 degree rise in angle over 42 inches.... or 1 degree rise in steepness for every 2 inches travelled...

So to keep my layout in line with the prototype... My Radius 2.5 Curve is 18"radius wfich gives a circumference of 9.42 feet or 1.2ft to the 45 degree point of the curve so for the banking to raise at the same rate as the prototype of 1 degree every 2 inches gives a 7 degree tilt over 1.2ft at the 45 degree point of the curve...

To to get the angle to 24 degrees in the same 1.2ft would mean tilting the track up 4 degrees for every 2 inches of forward travel (roughly 3/4 inch)... now thats way way to steep to be prototypical...

Bam i agree with what you say... but how quickly the banking should rise is more of more importance to correct handling of the cars rather than the actual degree of slope... (possibly?) The 5 degree angle was worked out from the r2's of my first design... not the R3 single lane... (but it was late and i was on pain killers... please excuse). To me 7 degrees looks like the maximum angle required (a banking height of around 3cm) to give the increase in slope from the straights to the 45 degree point of the curve...

I apolgise to anybody if i have not explained the maths well or to anybody else if i have oversimplified or made a mistake.... or just bored anybody to death!

again anybody got an opinion on this... and a big thank you for all those that have replied already...

 

[hankscorpio]

QUOTE (Graham Lane @ 9 Jan 2010, 11:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've been watching this thread with utter fascination. What a great idea, and the planning is awesome. I've been wanting to build a Nascar circuit for some time so will be very interested to see how it goes with a full fleet of cars. Great fun, I imagine!

Graham it was great with the two cars I have, trying not to lower your speed to much when you swap to an inner lane to overtake is a real test of nerve... Jumping to the outside for the overtake risks meeting at the chicaine as you exit that lane... and the pit lane game forces any centre lane drivers to change lanes every once in a while at least!

Have had to bow to pressure from "she who must be obeyed" to put some of my excess scalextric bits on ebay to pay for the next two NASCARS.... anything to keep her happy she's lovely...

 

[Bam]

I'm too lazy to go into the math even though I find it quite simple

- Ive had the "scale speed" discussion on another thread - it all depends on your point of view.

I would think the way to are planning to do it would look more realistic anyway. My way of doing things would be - does it look right? YES. Does it drive good? YES. Is anyone going to measure it? Are they hell!

Can't wait to see it in actio tho! You'll need to get a video up on youtube to show us all how it races.

 

[hankscorpio]

QUOTE (Graham Lane @ 9 Jan 2010, 11:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've been wanting to build a Nascar circuit for some time so will be very interested to see how it goes...

Ok Graham here it is... the ultimate project...

If/When I migrate to the loft is to have a board 18ft x6ft for the scalextric.... running around the outside would be a nascar oval and a GT1 Circuit in the middle with a single lane rally stage built into the setup somehow... all designed big enough to run "unmagged" but weighted...

My Inspiration of course is obvious...

My plan from what i have learned already is to use R4 curves (radius 4'6") with an 18" straight between the curves on the short side which would basically give a "half mile oval" and all points would be within a 3 ft width for reach etc etc the banking would need to be 15degrees to give the right "lead up" angle and preferably 3 lanes all the way around with 6 cars..., mmm ok so the secrets out... Until then I am working basically 1/4 scale of the project... with magnets to make it work.

In an ideal world i would also like to link the two circuits to give a variable track possibilities... Hence my request to re-introduce the scalextric analogue pit lane pieces to make that work.... and the twist on the theme i posted elsewhere...

So my big secret is out... but its such an expensive project... Stage 1 buy the expensive track pices and 4 of each car.... Build a smaller version to test the running properties (preferably somewhere warm) hence the Flatlands project... Good way to test my build stamina, practice my scenic skills... and acquire the bits to make the big project seem like less of a financial monster and just enjoy the social side that slot racing in the mean time...

 

[hankscorpio]

QUOTE (Bam @ 9 Jan 2010, 17:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I'm too lazy to go into the math even though I find it quite simple

- Ive had the "scale speed" discussion on another thread - it all depends on your point of view.

I've been there to... the passions it raises is too much for me to handle... hence my NASCARS lap at 5.9mph and thats it!

QUOTE (Bam @ 9 Jan 2010, 17:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I would think the way to are planning to do it would look more realistic anyway. My way of doing things would be - does it look right? YES. Does it drive good? YES. Is anyone going to measure it? Are they hell!

Big believer in if it looks right... it is right....

QUOTE (Bam @ 9 Jan 2010, 17:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Can't wait to see it in actio tho! You'll need to get a video up on youtube to show us all how it races.

Seriously in about 2 weeks and the "unscenic" version will be up and running new track clips and joiners in the post already... B&Q is way cheaper for the 3m lengths of timber i want than anywhere else... but My local superstore the wood is stored outside but undercover... with all this snow not only is it too cold to stand there and find the straight bits of wood.... The damp stuff will twist to buggery if its built straight into a layout and dries to quickly! There is a smaller B&Q store a few miles away with wood indoors which i will use when the roads improve a bit...

I promise full build pics... and a video of it running ASAP... this is not a pipe dream!

Thanks for your assistance...

 

[hankscorpio]

QUOTE (ronMcRain @ 6 Jan 2010, 12:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi hank .. Just an idea [again, sorry ..] for the Rally track .. The straight angle crossing is restricting the designs and the meeting roads has to be 90 degrees only. How about making a detachable bridge instead? Dropped in place when racing, removed when folding up the layout. Thus you can make the [now] bridge running at any angle you wish. And perhaps give room for many more possible and interesting layout designs ..

Like that idea... will put it in the melting pot... I got a drift land rover for Xmas so will use that to set the height it needs to be... as by god its tall! just concerned about how steep the approach may be to get the land rover under it....

QUOTE (ronMcRain @ 6 Jan 2010, 12:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Btw. I forgot about access reg. the Nascar track .. Sure, reaching the outmost corners will be impossible, if you can't stand in the middle of it? The GT track looks very nice!

The access from one side only problem is the bain of my life... Sometimes even building the "test" layout is a stretch and I'm not even fixing it down!

Standing in the middle is an option I thought of... and making the board 1ft... 2ft space to stand in then 1ft... Problem 1) the base of the darn sofa bed is in the way and i cant get rid of it as i have to have somehere to sit and play on the XBox... If it wasn't there you could probably only get two people in the middle fine for analogue but not so good for digital 4 car racing... the space constraints on this project have been a nightmare!

Thanks for the thoughts though.. Will report back on the bridge height issue...

 

[Priest'y]

Hi Sean

Really intresting venture developing. Like the idea of multiple layouts.

You mention you would like LED lighting in the fencing posts of the chain link fence.

"QUOTE (Bam @ 9 Jan 2010, 10:04)
You could make a removeable chainlink fence. Some mesh with poles attached then "tubes" or something on the back of the walls to locate the fence? Would add a few minutes to your set up time but you get what you want then.

I love the removable poles idea... Only problem is.... I was planning to run the wires for the LED's up the centre of the poles... If i could find a flexible enough fence i suppose i could "hinge the fence posts... put 2 small magnets on them to hold them "up" and use them to transfer the current... from a "ring main" under the track... mmm"

There is a thread in the tracks forum where somebody used 1/4 phono connectors to make them plug in this would work for you. You could use a flexible mesh a the flyscreen then at the end of play unplug the poles and rolll up the lot of storage. Maybe 3/16 plugs would be stronger! I'll see if I can find the thread again.

Keep up the upadtes it's a intresting build thanks
Chris

 

[hankscorpio]

QUOTE (Priest'y @ 11 Jan 2010, 10:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Sean
really intresting venture developing. Like the idea of multiple layouts.

Thanks... its nice comments that keep the soul intact when planning something "mad" like this... I am my own worst enemy though, I want to keep the whole thing affordable for others to copy, I set myself a budget and then work as hard as I can to stick to it... £50 per baseboard is my limit (for the woodwork)... Just costing everything up at the moment... seems ok...ish

QUOTE (Priest'y @ 11 Jan 2010, 10:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You mention you would like LED lighting in the fencing posts of the chain link fence.There is a thread in the tracks forum where somebody used 1/4 phono connectors to make them plug in this would work for you.

Phono plugs is a great Idea... but i'm still trying to squeze the banking to 2cm, the wall to 2cm above the track and leave 2cm for the fence etc.... Just a bit concerned how to "reach the back of the layout if the fence was removable... the three ft board makes it easy... the 4'6 one underneath does not

)... sometimes thinking in three dimensions folded up and folded down is a brain scramble!.... If keeping it within the 7cm works OK then i will probaly use 3mm grain of wheat bulbs for lighting as they are cheap £5 for 20... from a model railway supplier... may have a dig around at maplins later for cheaper LED's with a built in resistor (they last longer) or see if i cand find some cheap xmas lights!

QUOTE (Priest'y @ 11 Jan 2010, 10:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You could use a flexible mesh a the flyscreen then at the end of play unplug the poles and rolll up the lot of storage...
Keep up the upadtes it's a intresting build thanks

Chris I could kiss you... Flyscreen you genius.... just found a site Flyscreen Mesh £5.99 mtr the fibreglass stuff is stiff... almost self supporting.... and to think the fencing has been my worst nightmare as far as cost is concerned.... and you solve it in an instant... Going to order some right now! thats saved me about £20... and is the right colour so i don't have to paint it!

To keep the scenics simple i'mgonna leave a half inch gap between the back wall and the upright edge of the baseboard and "stick a computer generated" stadium crowd... I will curve it around the corners on stiff card so there is not much "outside" the oval to do scenically... I found this picture taken at the bristol motor speedway which i will use paintshop pro to extend to the size of an A4 page x 7cm high and use "fenceposts" to hide the joins...

Cheers for all the input guys...

Now in the ordering everything stage...

Things decided on so far...
Flyscreen Mesh for the fencing.... Solved.... (Thanks to chris)
The Outer Wall...solved..... PVC Angle from B&Q..... 3cm x 2cm... £3.84 for 2Metres
Fenceposts.... Solved... Evergreen square tubing..... Model shops everywhere
Scalextric track joiners and fixing clips.... Arrived today...will hold the R3's to the r2's and a scalectric clip top and bottom to hold it to the board
Banking Supports... Balsa Block and Plank... Cheap easy to get hold of and lightweight...
Baseboard... 9mm MDF one 8x4 sheet should do the job... get that cut at B&Q whn i get the plastic angle.. and the framework

So with things coming together hopefully by the end of the weekend I will have all the bits.... The following week the "wify" is off appearing in panto for a week so I will have the house to myself and make as much mess as i like in thee kitchen... 7 days should get the bulk of the project completed so it can be screwed to the wall and finished off in situ...

 

[hankscorpio]

I am in two minds at the moment about what to do about layout 3...

It was originally going to be my play layout... Drift Cars, Police range rover, pretty static cars with light, homies etc... donuts and sillyness... also provide somewhere to run my ever growing collection of analogue rally cars while they wait for a "layout" of their own...

Oh yeah for all those intersted in such things the police landrover is 6.5cm tall so 8cm high bridge piers would be a minimum! not good for flat layouts.

Anyway... Here is a redraw of what I originally had in mind... with all the tricky bits at the front of the layout... No "classic parts" all sport track... Again I have all the bits in my spares box so will do a test build later this week... (may have to steal a couple of R3s from the GT1 Box)

The layout is supposed to be "choppy" loads of 90deg corners to get the tail out on the drift cars but also provide a workable (30ft) analogue twisty race circuit...

Opinions on whether anyone thinks this has been achieved eagerly sought

Once the flatlands build was over I was going to buid a vertical layout a box type layout 6ft long, 2ft deep and 2ft high to give hills on a single lane hill climb rally... A SCX chrono rally kit sitting under my bed waiting for the plan to start....

I'm toying with the idea of perhaps building a single lane rally stage for the third layout and doing something else for the drift cars... not sure though if a 7cm high rally stage is tall enough to create any real inclines although it could be made up to 9cm and still fit the concept... again any opinons gladly recieved.

 

[distantkiwi]

I'm only in the thinking stage of my track still gathering nesacary things like controllers and cars and power supplies. What a brillant idea a track inside of a nascar track. Love it, especially as my cars are nascars.

I was thinking on the heights of bridges do they need to be higher to allow for truck racing? Or is the police range rover the highest vechicle out there?

 

[hankscorpio]

QUOTE (distantkiwi @ 12 Jan 2010, 00:45) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I'm only in the thinking stage of my track still gathering nesacary things like controllers and cars and power supplies. What a brillant idea a track inside of a nascar track. Love it, especially as my cars are nascars.

Thanks for the praise but i think the indianapolis motor speedway did beat me to the idea

but theirs is 1:1 so i suppose that does not count

QUOTE (distantkiwi @ 12 Jan 2010, 00:45) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I was thinking on the heights of bridges do they need to be higher to allow for truck racing? Or is the police range rover the highest vechicle out there?

Police Land rover is the tallest "Scalextric" vehicle... the only one that could be higher is the rear wing on the chapparal... any body know the height of that?

Can give the answer to the fly truck question but i only know cos i was following another thread... Fly Trucks are 75mm tall... add 1cm for the track height and at least 1/2cm for "Bounce" that gives an absolute minimum bridge pier height of 9cm....

Forum link to height of fly trucks

hope it helps

 

[distantkiwi]

Good point on who's idea it was.

Hank, I hope you don't mind the questions, but why 3 lanes on the oval? Also how do you bank the curves.