Well Mountain Shopping Mall Rally

Well, its my birthday on Weds, so I'm gonna start a thread then.

Components will be scrounged as much as possible, as I'm typing this I can see a skip on a neighbours drive so maybe I'll be able to blag some wood for the tables from him!

Next door is empty at the moment as they are working abroad, so I'm Hopefully gonna use his 2 car garage to build and paint the tables.

I'm gonna be using scaffold Tube and fittings as my wife works in the industry so can get then easily

The table will be "L " shaped, so i've been playing with Ideas of track designs using Sportworld Track designer.

Look out for my Thread

Simon

@Sig
You're right, the butter knife that I use in the video was perfect for mountains and border areas on my mountain modules, but for these larger flat areas it's much better to use one of the big spartulas(Is that the name) that you get at the hardware store.

Sometime I wonder how many man-decades has been wasted by people using the wrong tools :-(

On another note the small butter knife is good for shaping small details while it's still wet.
And one side is rippled and the other side is flat, so it gives me a bit of choice(wow a knife has two sides)

@rallyP
Hi Bruno I'm not sure what kind of details you have in mind, however since drywall mud takes ages to dry(the cheap stuff) I tend to keep layers as thin as possible
On this build I've tried different approaches on the 3 layers on the ground floor I used corrugated cardboard almost the same height as the track so I only needed a very thin layer to make the borders level, very fast and it dried up ready for the final layer in a day.

on the 1.st floor I used thinner corrugated cardboard and hence I had to add about 5-6 millimeters of mud and it took about a week for it to dry !!!!!!
Same thing on the city square on my rally/sprint thread where I removed all the plastic and replaced it with drywall mud it took about a week to dry too.

The thing is that when the initial thick layer is in place it's pretty fast to do repairs and additional layers as the now dry mud kinda sucks up the moist better than cardboard or expander foam(I guess)

Don't worry too much about the sanding, I do it by hand and it doesn't take a lot of effort or muscle thats the easy part(just keep a vacuum cleaner within reach)
If you use a machine you have to where a mask and go outside.

chips and chops.....
lars

QUOTE (PSRRFH @ 17 Nov 2009, 19:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Sometime I wonder how many man-decades has been wasted by people using the wrong tools :-(
Of course they'd be man-decades. It would be only woman-hours. Some of us learn quicker

QUOTE (Ember @ 17 Nov 2009, 11:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Of course they'd be man-decades. It would be only woman-hours. Some of us learn quicker
However they'd still be talking about how they feel about the end result
But you are right women are a lot smarter than men.

Here's a little flashback in this shopping mall soap opera, from before the drywall mud.
basically it's about cutting up corrugated cardboard strips and attaching them using Glue and a staple gun.
Testdriving is done with a Ninco police car.
&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0x006699&color2=0x54abd6">[URL=http://www.youtube.com/v/

Chips & chaps

Hi sig

QUOTE i'm still undecided about jumps, any tips from the top??

Cars with a drop-arm might do the trick as far as landing back in the slot is concerned.

You find them on a lot of the recent RTR rally and Raid cars.

At the recent Wye Valley Winter stages rally event, I used an Avant Peugeot 206 (Kris Meeke IRC version) with drop arm.

There were hills on a Ninco raid stage where you took off at the top and with a little piece of lead on the drop-arm the car landed back in the slot 90% of the time. There was another stage too where the cars took off and, again, the weighted drop-arm helped. Of course it helps if the car is going in a straight line when taking off, so not ideal to have a jump straight after a corner - just before a corner is really good fun, though...!

But it's not necessarily going to be the complete answer if there's an actual gap between one track piece and the next, as in the Shopping Mall track.

Cheers
Dave

Straight line is key. And enough speed. damage to the guide getting caught, due to too little speed can happend on this "Open jump", where as jumps based on continuesly track like slotcarman say, is safer guide wise.
I have jumped it with the Ninco Ford truck which have a drop arm , but no led. I think a droparm with led would be caught in the open version.
imho the old scaley catching system works well, and can be blended into scenery pretty easily.
but maybe the scenery could take an active part in recorvering stray cars eg. if the car jumped into a "Cement canal" thingie like in Terminator 2 with the truck chase the boy scene. ofcourse detailed mirrors goes bye bye in this approach but who jumps theire Racer anyways ??

entrance height is heigher than exit height, thats why I use the pitlane to go around the jump on the way back.
Here is some close up images of the flying leap used in the video

The flying Leap:


Total Length:


Jump length:


Riverbed Dimensions:


Riverbed Heights:


Broken Bridge Piece:


Catchers:
I think the red plastic catchers are about 1.5 milimeters thick.


And for the bold and adventuorous here is the loop


From the side:


Here is some awesome inspiration, watch the jump at 1.04(Led in drop arm in action )
&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0x006699&color2=0x54abd6">[URL=http://www.youtube.com/v/

enjoy

arrrrrrrrrr!, nightmare before christmas!!!

Ho Ho Ho
My brother was kind to lend me a lens for my camera so...... camera..... lights.....

and a little pic intensive Christmas Update.
















Garry Christmas And Hank New Year
ohh ****e I'm babling