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Hi all,

Rally in a Shed is dead, having built a winter indoor normal 2 lane race track which used a pace car lane I now know that I much prefer racing another car than just driving around a track. So the new layout will be a 1/40th scale two lane race track based on Jouef track, fully scenic and with very few and the only shallow level changes.

The original idea for the baseboard was for it to be approx. 8' x 3'6" (2.4 x 1 mtr) with a cut out at each front corner, one so I could get in the shed door and the other for the Freezer that shares the shed. This has already had to be changed as it became obvious that the eaves for the shed roof are no high enough to stand under so the new layout will again be 'U' shaped. But this time I will be using the full 8' length of the back of the shed. This does mean that at the door end of the shed I will only have a width of 500mm. I would like to use a set of banked track at this point, a 6'-7' straight into a banked 180 would be fun I think but the banked curves need over 620mm so it look like this will have to be a radius one hairpin which only needs about 400mm, not the best for a pace car but I may be able to build in one or two radius two curves. The banked curve set can be used on the other side of the 'U'.

Although I will be using Jouef track for the layout it will only be for the running surface this will be a purely copper tape track, once the layout is fixed and tested the metal rails will be removed. I will also be using some cut track pieces to allow for some wider and narrower lane widths.

But this is all for the future as at the moment I am still removing the old track and then need to build the framework for the new baseboard.

PS

The track name is taken from two local areas where I live in Essex.
 

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Looking forward to seeing the new layout develop Keith.
It`s really good to see someone else using Jouef track.
Do I understand correctly that you are going to take the rails out of the track pieces? Watch your fingers!

Cheers
Kev
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Kev,

yes, while I have a lot of Mk 1 track with the narrow rail to I'm also going to have to use some of the Mk 2 track where the rail is the other way up. While the track joins together with no problems you do get a noticeable step between the rails which would lead to extra ware on the braids and would not be good for any car that runs on its guide. Also this way I will need to make the magnet based cars run well with out them which will be an extra challenge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just a small update,

The old Rally in a Shed layout now resides in the local recycling centre and the support framework has all been removed. Remind me not to use polystyrene as ny base layer again, what a nightmare to remove.

As already said I wanted to do a rectangular layout running along the long side of the shed, something like this



this is based on my winter layout which drives very well.

But as the shed eaves are to low to be able to stand under them I have had to stick to the basic shape of the Rally in a Shed but am extending it the full length of the back of the shed and this is what I am looking at doing



All sizes are approximate at the moment until I get the supporting frame in place then I can take true measurements and get the base board cut. I will be using 11mm OSB board with 25mm foam insulation board on top.

But first a little clear out in the shed again and then I need to rearrange a few things so I can get the support frame built.
 

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That`s a really good design Keith.
Only thing I would suggest would be to not put a stand next to the Dunlop bridge. The Jouef Dunlop bridge is out of scale & dwarfs any buildings placed next to it.
Cheers
Kev
 

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Nice track-plan Keith.

Only thing I would suggest is, be carefull where the TARDIS lands !

(wink)

Cheers

Si.

Kev ... Who ?
 

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Hi Kev,

Yes I know what you mean about the Jouef bridge, it surprised me when I received it. As it appears to have been released just after the first four lane set I guess they made sure it could be used with that set and would span 4 lanes. Do have the planes for building a cardboard bridge so I might have to go that way and keep the jouef bridge for the winter track.

Si,

Don't think the Tardis will be moving for a while, It's just to big. Need to find a smaller one if I'm lucky.
 

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Hi Keith.
The Jouef bridge was one of the first accessories available, it first appeared in 1964!
You can tell the approximate age by the printing just under the arch. Later arches had a simple white pattern(1976-1980). Earlier versions had RECORD 64 stamped on (there`s a few stamped RECORD 68 ), while UK versions (1964-68) had the CHAMPION logo on.
Cheers
Kev

 

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Hi Kev,

Mine is one of the later ones



Just noticed looking at a copy of the 1965 Jouef catalogue which is the first one to show the bridge, although it's in the January 1964 price list, that it does state it allows for the passage of four cars.

This is the card one I could go with once scaled down in size

Dunlop bridge

I've been looking at images of the Dunlop bridge at Le Mans and it does change a lot. One picture from the fifties shows it not much wider than the track and almost a half circle, but then this one looks very wide



In another photo that looks like the late 60's the bridge is about twice the track width and disappears in to the trees on one side. So I think the Jouef bridge isn't that bad in the end. If I use it on the new layout I may just have to be creative with the scenery to blend it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi all,

No real action on the new layout at the moment, just to hot in the shed.

One small experiment has proved to be a success, if you remember I said in my first post the I was looking to use some cut track in the layout. The idea being to make up some 1.5R and may be some 2.5R bends and maybe a long chicane by cutting a normal chicane in half and spacing out with some cut straights and maybe even some chicane curves. Looking at other posts that use cut track most seem to join the track with hot glue, well I found a old bottle of Plastiweld and it work perfectly with the Jouef track. I had a broken chicane that had snapped under one of the rails and gluing the tabs under the slot back to the side of the slot with the Plasticweld has work a treat. I wasn't sure if the Plasticweld would even be any good as it must me over 10 years old
. The main advantage in using the Plastiweld is that it is a thin liquid and when brushed on the joint flows along the surfaces being joined and melts the plastic together making the join as strong as the original plastic. So now I can do my cut track hopefully without any problems.

I've also get a couple of the Jouefmatic or 'Z' track lane changers coming to have a play with got a couple of ideas for them but need to see how the work first.

Hope to get the framework and baseboard down over the next couple of weeks then ....
 

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Hi Keith,

Just for some useless info, the current Dunlop bridge shown in the post above is actually 30m between the supports and approx 60m end to end! Makes your Jouef bridge seem quite small really.

Looking forward to seeing the build progress,

Kind regards, Ray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi all,

So it has begun the frame work is in place..









There's still a little bit to do to the frame but it's just about ready to take the baseboards.

The base boards are cut from 11mm OSB board, I don't need anything to thick as it's being covered with 25mm insulation board.

The base boards have been cut..









I did goof slightly on the right baseboard as I had it cut at 610mm when it should have been 510mm so I need to do a bit of trimming which is good as the left side may need a little fillet adding against the wall. I need to play with the 180 deg corner for the end of this I think all R2 will be too big and I don't want a hairpin here, could be I will need one of my special 1.5R bends to fit in.



This will probably change but as it is here the pace car will run on the red lane and with the 1.5R bends it will never have a curve tighter than the outer lane of a R1 bend so hopefully I can keep the pace car at a reasonable speed and still provide a challenge for myself. I have a few other ideas on special track sections which should add to the challenge.

And the foam is also cut





The wire you see hanging down in the middle of the track is from the light and this is the next thing to change before I can fix the baseboards down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi All,

Just a small update..

Kev, hope it doesn't disappoint but this is going to be a slow build. If this is going to work how I want it to then I need to make all the buildings for each area before I can landscape that part, even down to having the right number of trees. Hopefully it will all work out in the end.

Not a lot to show for about 5 hours work but most of this time was spent rewiring the lights. The shed only had a single light and this was in the middle of the roof but tended to be just where you need to stand. So now it is over the door and to light the track I've had this set of spots laying around for ages and now they have found a use. May move them slightly but at least plenty of light for the track.



The right side baseboard has been trimmed to width and is now all screwed to the frame and the foam is glued on to the baseboard. To get the baseboard width right I knocked up a test of the R1.5 bends



and while I was at it a quick test for the left side



hopefully tomorrow I will get the rest of the boards fixed and the foam glued and then glue the underlay that I used on the winter track over the foam boards. This will let me lay wiring for the track and lights for buildings and track without any worries of it shorting out on the foil and also give a better surface to plaster on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi All,
Well as with al good planes this one did not quite work out as I spent the afternoon watching the Eastbourne Air show on the net but dis manage to get the left baseboard screwed down and the foam glue to it. I need to trim the foam on this side a little bit and the do the centre section. I need to lay some track out before I can cut the centre to depth as I could need anything between 900 and 1000mm, hopefully 900mm will do so I can reach the corners easier.

With this new track I have decided to go fully 1/40th - 1/43rd and sell off all my 1/32nd bits and have already sold 2 cars and will shortly be selling all my Ninco track and Scalextric and other 1/32nd bits to help fund this build and more cars. Its all going on ebay (my names is the same as here) along with all my other model kits and other bits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi All,

I'm a bit behind with updates on the new layout but here goes...

Having gone the two sides I needed to work out how deep the centre section need to be so time for another quick test with track.





In the end the centre section needed to be a bit deeper than I wanted, only 50mm but still a bit to much really but I think I will still be able to reach the track ok.

While I was at it I thought I would give the banked track a try out



Looks like it will work.

That was all the weekend before last and the last week end being a Public Holiday here gave me an extra day to work on the track.

So on Sunday After watching the F1 race I go the fabric underlay glued on to the foam board





Then on Monday I layed out a test track, OK so some of the bends aren't correct as I have some track cutting and gluing to do but at least I cane see if the general idea will work.









At the moment it's not a complete success but this is more down to the Jouef cars than the track. Gave the rails a quick clean up nut couldn't get a full lap out of the Jouef cars I tried. However the Carrera Go cars would just about go around OK so it's not a power problem, the Carrera cars would get stuck on some of the track joins and when the track changed from Mk 1 to Mk 2 rails as there is a step at this point. I think this just helps to confirm my idea to remove the rails and just run on copper tape and not rely on magnets in the Artin, SCX and Carrera cars.

This is going to be a slow build as I will need to have all the bits I need at hand before I can start doing the scenery for each area. As the build progresses I think my ideas will be will be come obvious so no clues for the moment.

I have picked up a few items for the scenery, when I was going through a box of assorted Scalextric bits that I'm selling of I found I had come hay bales and cones and the I bought some more on ebay (did pay a bit over the top for these - teach me to be more careful when bidding on my phone)



Since then I have picked another 30 odd hay bales some more cones and some oil drums. Also got 20 sheets of A4 foam board ready to start the buildings with. On the winter track the buildings are all printed card but I want to try something a little different this time. I will use the card building as templates but make them out of the foam board and also use some embossed plasticard and other ideas.

So that's it for the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi all,

haven't posted for a while but things have not been progressing that much but here is an update so far.

The first thing was remove the rail from some track pieces.



As can also be seen these pieces have also been glued together and the joint reinforced with some plastic strip. I'm also using the metal joining clips as these do hold the track tighter very tightly.

The rail proved very easy to remove from the Mk 2 track, I lifted the end of the track removed the connector and it was then very easy to pull the rail out as the smaller section is at the bottom the rail is not held the well in the track. Removing the track from the earlier Mk 1 track is not quite so easy as this has the larger section at the bottom in the track. The same princeable applies but it is harder to pull out and you need to flex the track as you pull the rail out. I have also found that a firm sharp pull helps.

Because it's is a major feature of the track and the back straights run from it and the will decide where all other parts of the track sit construction starts with the banked section.



and some straights then glued to this



I then fitted some copper tape to this section of track as a test and it seemed to work ok.
The next thing to do was to build a ramped support for the track to sit on.







A centre support was made





a ramp for the other side



The front of the center box was cut away to match the inner curve of the banked track.

When I was getting ready to fox the track to the ramped support a major problem came to light. When the straight section were straightened up to give a 90 deg turn the angle of the bank became to great to be driveable and after trying out a few ideas it became obvious that the raised section had to go and the track had to be flat.

I will try and add a further update later tonight or tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi Again

While I was playing with the banked section of track I made another couple of purchases

First another 12volt variable power supply



another train controller, the same as I have on the winter track, which gives 12volt fixed and separate variable voltage. However I may not in the end use this on the new track as I am thinking of using two Artin power packs and two train speed controllers to adjust the voltage.

Not sure the next item will find a lot of use on the new layout but we will see.



This came from Lidi's for all of £40 I got a compressor, an airbrush, which seems to be a cheap copy of a Badger model I already have, and six pots of paint. It also came with a few other accessories one of which allows the compressor to be used as a airgun and this will be useful to clean the slots. The main reason for buying this was for the compressor, I already have two airbrushes just need to get them back from the brother inlaw.

While I was trying to get the banked section of track to work I had another test layout of the track









As can be seen it looks like I will be needing to make a few special pieces if the layout is going to come together.

next time the building of a special piece...
 
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