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what´s on your workbench? [1/43]

103K views 726 replies 35 participants last post by  pfuetze 
#1 ·
project Mini Sprint ... in the works for the ProNoMag

minisprint04.jpg


minisprint01.jpg


minisprint02.jpg


minisprint03.jpg


something went wrong on the wheelbase of the scratchbuilt chassis for the Mini Sprint.
so - correction works ...
and new ball bearings -finally found some with ABEC5 classisfication for 2mm axles, but sadly no flange.
nothing that can´t be dealt with ...
made a groove in the axle and one in the crown gear, a piece of copper wire will be added later, to secure the crown gear from slipping on the axle
 
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#612 ·
nice work on the proxy cars, Alexis!

Graham, 7/18 gearing is a bit short maybe?
i ran those motors in the ProNoMag at 18V for training and race. no problem at all. Even for a quite heavy car.
you are still using the 2 body screws on the Porsche? because i see the cuts in the chassis, but is the chassis actually able to really twist a little?
does the front axle still has that side to side play?
 
#613 ·
The cuts made a big difference to the traction the flex is quite limited and the two screw mount works well.Re the sliding front axle it's a thing I've always felt helps in cars that have front wheel contact as the centrifugal force throws the axle to the outside effectively increasing the front track on one side of the car as it corners. I ran the car at 15 v last night with our a problem. I'm now unsure which cars to send you as I have several which perform well .My next step is to sort tyre choice as I have a number of choices to consider yet
 
#618 ·
I don't have much slot car experience but really enjoy seeing what you all are doing here and want to join the fun so this post will be sort of a kitchen sink style introduction.

I picked up some of Peter's chassis and wheels from SW and am looking forward to building some cars.

My first project will be a 1/43 sprint car. The images are of a car I'm working on that is 1/50 so my apologies for posting them to a 1/43 thread. It is based on a JAG PR-5 with a Slide Guide installed. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it went around an old routed track that has stood unused in the the garage for almost 15 years. With the silicone tires and heavy body it actually had more traction than I would prefer.

The plan is to use some of Peter's wheels and make foam tires the correct diameter and width. You can see the first donuts I cut tonight which are the correct diameter for the 1/50th car but still need to be trimmed to width. Next time in the shop I'll cut some correct size donuts for the front wheels. Ultimately the PR-5 will be cut up to form a power pod for a scratchbuilt 1/43 chassis and body. Then it will be time to build a new bullring style banked oval.

Just in case the I'm breaking any local thread laws I did run some 1/43 cars on the track tonight. I'm surprised how well it held up. It has been in a non climate controlled garage for 15 years and was unpainted until about a week ago. I was too lazy to mask it or paint within the lines so I just rolled paint over the copper tape and wiped it off as I went along. It worked great. I've got a 4x12 layout hanging from the ceiling that has been untouched for the same time period. I hope it has held up as well. If so it will get painted by using the same technique.

Thanks for reading and even more for sharing all the great information.

Brent


 
#626 ·
If I'm going to have 1/43 sprint cars I'll need a track to run them on. This is the current plan to be cut from a single sheet of 3/8" MDF. The outside dimensions will be close to 4'x8'. The sides will be pulled in to make the straights straight and provide about 20 degrees of bank in the curves. Each single black line in the drawing is 9/16" wide and represents the slot and two rows of copper tape.

Roughly 50' of unique driving line per car. Each lap is a little more than a scale 1/8 mile.

Cars can always pass if they are on separate lane pairs. They can also pass if they are on the same lane pair when running the inside groove.

The two crossings can be viewed as an added challenge or a necessary evil but I think the driving will be more interesting with what amounts to six different corners.


Hopefully I'll be making sawdust in the next few days.

Take care,
Brent
 
#627 ·
Here is the current state of the oval. Pairs of slots are separated by .875"/22mm in middle and outer lanes, 2.375"/60mm in the inner lane. Each lane is separated from its neighbor by 2.375"/60mm. The outside lane is 2.375"/60mm from the edge in the straights increasing to 3.25"/83mm. Inside lane is 1.5625"/40mm from the edge. The next project will be a 4x8 footprint road course for 1/43 and HO. Should I change any of the spacing dimensions?

There is more detail on the fabrication in the "Running HO on copper taped track" thread as I'll be running both scales on the oval.

As for something that fits on my actual workbench I've got a 1/43 Corgi 356A disassembled. I'll probably do a diecast conversion but resin casting some shells from one is sorely tempting. I have half a dozen other inexpensive 1/43 diecast donor cars on the way. I know it will be a reach and likely need a non scale hump to clear the crown but I'm excited about trying to fit a chassis in a Bentley Speed 8.

Take care,
Brent
 
#628 ·
with a hump, it should be easy to get the Bentley running.
your dimensions sounds good. i got 50mm inside and 80mm outside (slot to edge).
i like to run diecast conversion in the last time, especially on the WackelDackel chassis. (slow). I enjoy seeing the body leaning in the curve and the steering wheels when getting out of the turns.
 
#629 ·
It has been quite a while since I have built any new cars and this is my, as usual, last minute entry for Pronomag.

It came about after Peter kindly sent me 3 vacformed bodyshells, a Porsche 917 'Pink Pig, a BMW Mini Cooper and a reject Ford GT40 Mk2. I like to miniaturize 1/24 brass chassis that I find on SlotBlog and the Porsche seemed to fit the bill.




I had just fitted the front axle and had the car sitting on it's wheels, when Roland reminded me of a rule change regarding weight and tyre with. I re read the rules and found that my car just came in under the weight limit.

But, in reading the rules again, I noticed the 48mm width limit. The Porsche is just over 51mm.

Back to the drawing board! I still wanted to use a vacuum body, so measured the other 2 that I had. The Mini's WB was too long, but the Ford had the same WB, but it was 10mm narrower.

After some adjustment with a hacksaw, we are back on course. The Ford body is rough but, painted inside, it is usable.



Will it be ready to post by the weekend? I dont know, but I hope so!

Regards, Lloyd.
 

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#631 ·
Nice work Lloyd it will be good to see how it go's on the Desmo .I hope to be able to run an event ,When I get my new track built . Just picked up a router this morning .So once the weather improves I can get out in the garden to do the routing .Too much dust from mdf to be done indoors as both Mrs W and my self have lung problems .
 
#632 ·
Lloyd,

Do you use a jig for bending and drilling the motor/axle pod? What thickness is the brass plate you use for the pod?

I'm looking forward to building some brass chassis and would like to be able to accurately make several pods. I have some random ideas but will happily stand on the shoulders of giants if that is an option.

Thanks,
Brent
 
#635 ·
Graham, I have done several routed tracks and agree that you need to route your new track in the garden. Even then you still have to avoid inhaling dust, so a mask is advisable.

Brent, I do not have a jig as I rarely build inline chassis. In this case it was a lot of measuring and trial and error. I used 0.5mm brass for the front plate, but a thinner sheet for the motor mount. If I made another one, I would use the thicker o.5mm or thicker. On this car I was trying to keep the weight down, which I do not usually do.

Regards, Lloyd
 
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