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loving your 3dp bodies
the biggest problem as always is removing the layer lines easily on the bodies
i always struggle
you seem to have over come this
any tips ?

kev
 

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loving your 3dp bodies
the biggest problem as always is removing the layer lines easily on the bodies
i always struggle
you seem to have over come this
any tips ?

kev
Thanks Kev! The prints off of my AnyCubic Mono are pretty smooth straight off the machine, I try and position the prints during printing so the layer lines are on the large flat sand-able areas. Once done and cured, I sand it down with a Burgandy Scotch-Brite Pad, then prime it with some rattle-can primer... then repeat several times until the lines are gone.... for heavy offending areas I will use a 220grit sanding stick. The 3d printed resin also sands really nice and easy.. so that makes it not much of a chore.

I am having a little bit of a problem knowing when to stop and what is "good enough" coming from the model car side of the hobby I tend to strive for absolute perfection... but we plan on racing these hard and having fun.. so I have to come to a compromise of time spent and how it looks on the track...
 

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Discussion Starter · #408 ·










Fiat 500 in the works, resin body needs a little attention.

found slide bearings for 2mm axles on aliexpress - had to try them.

best combination are slot.it axles and the bearings with the flange. all other do not offer good axle play.
jedelloh axles should work with a little sanding, too.

chassis in the pictures offers the possibility to unmount the fully rear axle.
in combination with a tire trueing machine the perfect way to get round tires!
 

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Discussion Starter · #409 ·


inspired by ChaseCars
working title: Wackeldackel
(for you english speaking gents - the small dog figures that sat on the hat rack of the cars, always nodding their head ...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #411 ·



























side project - water pump pliers with slot for pressing crown gears onto the axles

the chase cars inspired chassis is running! took some time and some prototypes to get it right!
and now - the car is too fast! i am not able to see the tilting of the body in the curves!

last pic of the SCX compact DTM wheels: the PU tires that melted of the rims even took the paint off the wheels!
 

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Discussion Starter · #413 ·
Tires melted? What tires and how?

Had few tires myself too that could described that they just melted, or went very soft
all tires described as "melted" had become very soft before. starting in only one spot, than more or less the whole tire becomes very soft and very sticky.
in the end you can use an old rag to clean the tire off the rim, just by wiping it off.

happens to PU tires, had this on K&D tires and on CarGo tires. Never on Ortmanns.
 

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Chassis looks great! I had thought about attempting this for my diecast proxy entry, but didn't think I could pull it off with the time I had available.

How did you retain the stub axles for each front wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #416 ·
Chassis looks great! I had thought about attempting this for my diecast proxy entry, but didn't think I could pull it off with the time I had available.

How did you retain the stub axles for each front wheel?
same for me, Cameron! could not finish it in time for the race, but now it is running and it is running nice!
already thinking about how to change the pivot point of the tilting mechanims to get more momentum from the body for more force on the springs.

i used ball bearings in the stub axles. the hole in the bearings was a little on the small side while the axle have been the large side. So, there is a press fit of the axles in the bearings and i did not have to secure them.
if this would now have worked, i would have used super glue on the axle in the inner bearings. or a small brass ring over the stub axle on the inside, secured again with super glue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #417 ·






the pliers are the 2nd best slot-tool i got! the only better one is the tape laying tool for copper tape!

evolution on the WackelDackel - pivoting point much lower so the body has more momentum on the springs
 
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