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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When you build your various slot cars, what chassis do you usually use?

For me its PCS (plastic) for F1 cars and Penelope Pitlane(brass) for earlier cars.

I have used both for resign, pattos clear bodies and plastic custom builds.

Never tried Slot-It chassis, but many of their other parts.

Any thoughts?

ncng
 

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most of the top end chassis are very good the only drawback in using one for a scatchbuild is youve got to find one with the right wheelbase. not an easy job, unless you cut the front end off, and rejoin it it at the correct wheelbase. john
 

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I used a Slot.It HRS chassis (the original HRS not HRS2) to underpin a Volvo XC90 with FAT tyres. You can adjust this for length. I had to drop the guide down with a 4mm spacer and build a 4mm pod to put the SSD LED near enough to the track to register with the sensors.

I removed the magnet as it was so far away from the track it wasn't creating any downforce.

Despite all of this height the car actually drives ridiculously well - it sticks in the slot way better than you would think and even on supersoft urethanes it slides around hairpins beautifully and gives my low down inline magless NASCARs on the same compound a very close race.

I am well impressed with the HRS chassis but I would hate to have to pay full price for one.
 

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I try to keep to the 'feel'of the car type. For example, for late 60s-early 70s sports prototypes I adapt the corresponding Fly and Slot.It chassis from that era. The two Alfa 33s I did herehave Slot.It Chaparral 2E and Alfa 33/3 chassis and right now I'm putting Fly porsche 908 chassis under a couple of GMC Porsche 907s. That way you can have a groovy drive-in with your standard Fly, Slot.It etc stable-mates and they all have the same feel on the track.

You can change wheelbase on Fly sidewinders by shifting the motor carrier forward or back and for Slot.It and Fly by cutting off the front axle mounts and moving them to the desired spot.

For 60's bodies like an Aurora TR3 I use 60's chassis (Riko in this example), for modern renditions of vintage cars (eg Matchbox) I use Penelope or brass.

Chers

Andy
 

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Great topic. I built a PCS32 chassis and found it ok but not great.

I am building a MTR Lexan body Ocella 20C and plan to use an original HRS chassis (its in the kit). I found that the tongue / guide stick out too far. Anyone else conduct the mods necessary to bring it closer to the front axles? If I cut it back, is there a glue that is best for reattachment to the chassis?
 

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Get it aligned right using bluetack, then tack it with a bit of superglue (dries fast and can be easily pulled apart if you get it wrong) then hit it with lots of Araldite, and keep it warm while it sets.
 

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I use Penelope Pitlane for pretty much all my builds, theres one for any type of car, fully adjustable and just quick and easy to build which gives me more time to spend on bodies which is my main area of interest. Also I believe they win a lot of races in the hands of the tuners, especially at Wolves it seems.
 

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Thanks Andy,

Sorry to ask but what is "bluetrack"? Is Araldite a standard epoxy?
 

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I meant Bluetack - its like a sticky putty that's used to stick posters etc to walls without damaging them - it peels off paint or paper.

Araldite is the regular epoxy glue in the UK. It comes in several varieties nowadays (I use 'precision', whatever that really means!) but it's basically a 1+1 glue/hardener mix. It takes a couple of hours to cure if you stick it near a radiator.

All the best

Andy
 

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i use a 2 part polyester resin to glue any thing on a chassis, if youve got to lengthen it cut the small piece to join it, lay it on tefon cooking film and clamp it. the glue wont stick to the teflon, available at the pound shop. and use an overlay of plasticard on top using the same glue and your chassis will be stronger than the original. john
 

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Tony
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I always use Brass, spring steel and piano wire and a chassis jig. That way you can build whatever size car you want

Tony
 
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