[OppositeLock]

Hi guys, I was just wondering what the total cost might be for say an EAHORC spec open wheel and NASCAR or similar (sorry Marc, the LMP wasn't quite what I was expecting

) ? I nearly bought a Mega G at Marlborough but then had a sinking feeling about acquiring tools and spares to keep it running.

So basically, two off the peg cars, and enough equipment to keep them running in the 'as new' condition, bearing in mind I don't even own a soldering iron or set of screwdrivers at present! I'd prefer not to have to do any customising, although a set of spare bodies (with different custom paint schemes) would be nice.

So any ideas as to the minimum outlay, please, or a shopping list, what with the dreaded festive season fast approaching?

 

[Gareth]

Hey up,

Well the approach that many (including myself) have taken with Open Wheel is to go to Mr Martech (MBR on here) and ask him very nicely if he will sell us a race ready Mega G. This car will generally be a rocketship and will make you competitive. For that you will pay £36 plus postage which is an excellent price.

Apart from the car you should then buy a glassfibre pencil from ebay for shoe and commutator cleaning, an pin point oiler and comm drops. Total outlay is about £10 for all that. Pickup shoes and other replacement parts are readily available and are cheap.

I don't believe there is a Mega G maintenance thread as yet but it is high time one was created.

For Nascar the car of choice is generally the LifeLike T. You can pick one of these up second hand for less than a tenner on that auction site or have a word with Mr Slowracer Tony who has a large number in his shop last time I looked.

If you want to make your LifeLike competitive you should be prepared to buy a few second hand ones to find the best motor you can and also strongest magnets and then put the two together. A set of double flanged hubs is a couple of quid and is a good investment along with some silicone tyres.

Expect to spend a minimum of £60 for both cars and tools but I think if you start trying to find the best LL-T you can then expect to spend nearer £100.

 

[Julian_Boolean]

I think you're better off starting with a SG+ in NASCAR, they're not much slower that the LifeLike, easier to drive and much more likely to be good straight out of the box, though it would need a change of rear wheels to fit tyres, so you'd be looking at around £15 for a new SG+, £2 for a set of wheels and £1.50 for a set of .422 tyres, get Marc to fit the wheels for you and off you go.
Or you could use a 1.5 Mega G in NASCAR which would just mean buying one and a set of tyres.
The other option is to buy an LMP Mega G from Martech and an F1 body, this would mean using and maintaining just one car for both classes.

 

[montoya1]

The 'answer' really depends on where the chassis will be used.

If we are talking more national races then the suggestions above cover it.

 

[Gareth]

That is very true about the SG+ Julian. I used one for the first few EAHORC meets I raced in for Nascar and made the A Final each time with it, best result being third.

I do find the LifeLike corners a bit quicker than the SG+ but I do have a freakishly grippy car for some reason!

 

[marctownsend]

Mat

All the above advice is sound but I'm aware you are budget concious so there is another way...

Martech Mega G's are very good and their introduction has changed the face of EAHORC mornings but Rob Lees came 5th in the morning the other Sunday and won LMP with a self prepaired Mega (he left his Martech in his box) if you get in on the next EAHORC group order you may get one for £17 ish, a front axle for £2 and tyres for £1.50

This gives you a fair chunk toward a LifeLike new old stock from HO racing ahead (slowracer on SF) or BNIP from slot cars direct. HORA option likely to comee with a more competetive body. Small hubs and Super Tires under a fiver in total, bingo.

A normal eraser for com cleaning is fine and will likely preserve an arm longer than fibreglass pencil, a bottle of Wahl clipper oil from sally hair and beauty for £3.50 will see to a lifetime of lubricating and a roll of masking tape for tyre cleaning are the consumables you will need.

A terminal screwdriver and an empty pin point oiler are the essential tools to get going, needle nose pliers if you're feeling flash.

You will need a controller the three price pionts are a ninco controller (55ohm) for £5 from the bay a 45ohm Parma from £20 to £40 and an electronic/specialist(BRP are great) £80 to £150

So if you go with a Ninco controller you could be up and running for £60, if you run LMP knock the best part of £20 off.

I started with a £10 Tyco and a £15 LifeLike and it all went well, a few years and over £1000 later the wheels have come off, no I don't understand either?!?!?

As often there is no right answer just the one that fits your wants and needs.

BTW I would try a life like first as they are often seen as a beginners car and are a pleasure to own but not that easy to drive. Buying an LMP and an open wheel body will of course save even more.

 

[OppositeLock]

Thanks very much guys

I'll reread and reread the replies until it all sinks in (the embodiment of 'got a uni degree but can't wire a plug' here

). I could probably stretch to the £100 mark for now. Very pleased with Tony's service last time so HORA is a prime consideration! I think on this occasion I'll have to blindly go with advice/bit of mentoring. I have a bit of time on my side before any EAHORC rounds within travelling distance crop up again anyways (Worthing or Marlborough).

 

[OppositeLock]

QUOTE (Gareth @ 11 Oct 2011, 09:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I don't believe there is a Mega G maintenance thread as yet but it is high time one was created.

PS That would be exceedingly useful. I got very frustrated with Arora AFX in the 70s as a kid, as they were temperamental to keep running smoothly and it eventually pushed me to the dark side...Scaley

 

[Gareth]

QUOTE (OppositeLock @ 11 Oct 2011, 14:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>PS That would be exceedingly useful. I got very frustrated with Arora AFX in the 70s as a kid, as they were temperamental to keep running smoothly and it eventually pushed me to the dark side...Scaley

Where as now there are hundreds of people to talk to about pancake cars and they all know an amazing amount of stuff.

My £100 figure was on the high side purely because I've ended up buying a lot of cars which are either for racing but not raced or just because I like them when I should be focussing on race cars. There is a big difference between home cars and race cars as you'll soon discover!!

Oh and if you have pets such as cats or dogs, don't drive your race cars at home as they'll get hair, fur and all kinds of fluff in them which tends to slow them down. Actually don't drive your race cars at home anyway. It is just bad news unless you have an immaculate race area!

If you can get to see Tony at one of his SCHORC events with his shop, you could try out some LifeLikes to find a nice quick chassis. Then if you are unhappy with the magnets, a replacement brand new bare bones chassis is just £4 from Slot Cars Direct. Swap the motor and axle into your brand new chassis and then you'll have a fast motor in a grippy car. This will work out very cheaply compared to buying lots and lots of LifeLike cars.

 

[roblees]

Hi Matt
hard on the heels of the EAHORC round in Marlborough we are racing on my short track tonight....17 hyde lane Marlborough SN8 1JL from 7.45 or so.

Get the advice in person and in stereo from Andyslots and Marctownsend and I think from cryer-evo too.

No race fees at this meeting, spend it all on petrol and beer and HO cars.

Best Rob

 

[Julian_Boolean]

I'll also add that I find the Tyco easier to drive than the Mega G and you may get better results by going slower and not crashing as much, hopefully Deane still has club cars and you could race these until you've made your mind up what you want to do.

 

[montoya1]

Yes, the club cars are still on the go. The last national was the first time they had been used in a fair while, but Robin Clark managed to win his final and put several star names out.

The slowing down thing seems so simple that one often fears to say it to people. One race control one can often see drivers pumping in good lap times on the Trackmate screen, but ending up with scores well under their optimum. The trick is to back off a little to get the number that really counts up.

The most extreme example I encountered was one year at the 24hr. Our mechanic came over the team radio and gave me the laps times once I was onto the main straight and could pay attention. If I got too high into the 14 seconds lap times he would say so, but I would also be told when I had gone under 14s and told to slow down. He wanted me in my comfort zone, but without getting too comfortable.

We were trying to protect the decent lead our quick guys had built up, and get me through my 2hr minimum. It worked, with that coaching I was able to do mid 14s for three-four minutes or so at a time with no offs, and we kept things static to our rivals.

 

[Julian_Boolean]

The slowing down a bit and crashing less was one of the best things I tried in slot racing, in the 6 hour we'd have done more laps by going slower and crashing less, our average lap time wasn't even 10 seconds a lap but I think everyone in my team did a lap under 9 seconds.

 

[cryer-evo]

What is aloud in mod class and Nass car
Cars ?
Parts ?

As I have a tyco that is much faster than my mega g but fills slower to drive .
I would like to race more than f1 and pro mod wene I manage to get to the race meets

 

[RobinRacer]

QUOTE (cryer-evo @ 12 Oct 2011, 10:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What is aloud in mod class and Nass car
Cars ?
Parts ?

As I have a tyco that is much faster than my mega g but fills slower to drive .
I would like to race more than f1 and pro mod wene I manage to get to the race meets

The rules are on Tthe EAHORC website. Look under current schedule and think click rules.

 

[montoya1]

think click rules?

That makes it sound like one can think the word 'rules' and the relevant page will appear. Cool.

Anyway: http://www.bglawns.com/rulesdetails2011_2012.htm

Or here (right hand column).

 

[OppositeLock]

haha! I tried going slow at the last round - it resulted in as many offs as going too fast

Mr Lees, if I'd seen your kind offer a day earlier I'd have popped along!

Hmm, I've just looked up the EAHORC non Norfolk/Kent rounds and it seems I can only make the one next July (Marlborough clashes with an important event dan sarf -but I might just be able to forgo it)!

So I have nearly a year to find a set of cars

 

[OppositeLock]

When I started this thread I wasn't altogether aware of some of the rules relating to repaints and colour schemes, and all joking aside, life's too short IMO. I'll still consider getting something up and running for next year, and thanks for all the replies, but for now, I'm going to concentrate on the more fun aspects of adding to my collection.

 

[roblees]

Matt
It's a shame you missed our HO night but you are very welcome to drop by any Tuesday - it's largely the same FLBT people but with bigger cars and a smaller track! Always loaners available.

As to the rules, don't worry, turn up with what you've got at a National and we'll get you up and running with your own gear and Montoya/motherhen1 will make sure you are legal and have a good day. The MegaG/LMP1 combo requires a little fetting for F1 in the morning but once it's done it's done. There are a few people who could sell you a body with the shortened wings - if not I'm happy to lend you one and do yours in between events.

Best Rob

 

[OppositeLock]

Thanks Rob, much appreciated

Actually I have rather a lot of 1/32 (far more than HO) -unfortunately the majority of them are shelf queens and ltd eds ...and it's a long way down to the church hall floor