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· Allan Wakefield
6,720 Posts
The idea here is that someone ( a volunteer? ) can answer questions and requests for 'how to's, in more detail than just a verbal answer on the board. An article could be produced , with pictures and then uploaded to the site. The article would have a 'comment' button on it ( all articles on the main site will have this I believe ) to further discussion.


'newbie' asks how to change his stock fly guide for a Ninco sprung guide and states he has no knowledge or skills.
Instead of simply saying;

"well you pull off the contacts, remove the guide and replace the sprung one and then the wires"...

Swissracer, for instance might take some pics and do a quick mini article to answer the question and run the person through the change over graphically.

Something like that anyway...


· Registered
778 Posts
Doc Pea, the description of the guide-setup is excellent!

The only thing missing is the background / /Philosophy of guides - -where to use a pin-guide and where a longer one - in relation to the curve-radius for example - -tight curves, short guide!
And the info about guide depth - referring to Scalextric!
And don't forget guide width - depending on the minimal raduis, guide length and slot width...

Lot's of things every slotter knows or should know...

If someone sends me some of his spare time, I'll volunteer working on this...

· Premium Member
5,546 Posts
Hi Thomas,
It was nice to see you in Newport Beach last month. I hope that you had a good time and digested the sushi!

There is a lot to say about guide flags, but I will resume my own opinion (any and all may disagree of course) to this: the pro racers sorted this out once and for all in the early 1970's, while the home-racing cars and the companies manufacturing them still have not gotten it, and apparently are not going to for a while longer.

First, pin vs moving blade:

All HO cars use a pin guide and have done so for the past 40 years at the exception of the TycoPro, Riggen, Dynamic and Cobramite cars, all short-lived.
With or without magnet use, they work fine and no one in the HO ranks has ever complained about contact or any other problems.

While the second generation Scalextric cars used pin guides, their designers failed to comprehend the function of electrical contact vs electrical resistance, so this effort was doomed from the beginning with uneven, then poor contact after a fairly short operating time.

Most mid-1960's 1/32 scale club racers in the midwest and East Coast of the USA used pin-style guides, but they did not have any problems at all because they understood the needs and used proper and softer braided contacts on which only the frayed ends ever touched the contact rails. However, this did not translate into wide production: Monogram was the only company that issued such cars in the mid 1960's, the work of Dick Dobson and Gene Wallingford. They worked great but commercial pressures forced them into "upgraded" versions with a moving blade.

Indeed, the ONLY commercially produced non-HO cars to feature a pin-style guide in the past 30 years are the Cox SuperScale and the TSRF, both designed by yours truly. Does this mean that I am a 100% supporter of this system? Not yet, and the use of a moving blade on my own pro-racing cars are a proof that I am not that rigidly fixed... and admittedly my first design is not 100% satisfactory.
I believe that the next evolution of the pin guide on the TSRF chassis will resolve its "binding" problems when the car is at a greater angle than allowed by the blade. But all other dire predictions ("it will never work") just never happened... Indeed I can (and have) match ANY production home-racing car against a TSRF on either plastic or wood, and electrical contact has never been an issue on the TSRF cars, while it has been on others.

As far as for home-racing cars, the "benefits" of the plug-in guides is in my opinion completely offset and very negatively, by its adverse effects, as I witness daily from our retail location, one of the major causes of average customers problems and a major cause of disaffection from a hobby they first like, then shun from.

One of the things I would IMMEDIATELY do if I were one of the "Big Ones" is to design a guide that not only would do away with the silly little rivets at the end of the lead wires, causing much anger during contact replacement, using instead no-more-costly horizontal pro-racing like clips set into horizontal clip pockets as seen on any and all pro-racing guides, do away with the plug-in system and replace it by a straight shaft featuring a pressure clip allowing the guide to turn but never to "rock" under dragging pressure.
Last, I would make ALL blades deep enough for modern tracks, with a clearly marked line for trimming the blade for use on antiquated early tracks, and make the guide and the contacts wide enough to provide adequate contact not only on the aforementioned antiquated tracks (still owned by a majority of the long-time curmudgeons) but also on the modern tracks featuring proper plastic guide liners such as Carrera or Artin, not mentioning all the great 1960's tracks by Revell, Monogram, Strombecker, Atlas, K&B, and even the 1/24 scale Eldon and Scalextric.
Last, I would make sure that the material on top of the braided contacts provide actual support for such, certainly not the case now, causing often the contacts to touch the track along their length and causing resistance and ...see paragraph one.

Dok Pea

(Not Another Curmudgeon!)

· Registered
59 Posts
Do you think it is remotely in the ability of a corporate engineer to actually design something that is simple AND works for the benefit of a consumer? nah, too logical....
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