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What to have as a second class

3116 Views 22 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Mr Modifier
Calling all attendees of the Pantyffynnon Slot Car Club,

At tonight's club night Alan suggested it might be time to have a second class of cars. This is good from my point of view - because it means my sets of cars will take less of a bashing!

We already run GTs.

So what do we want as a second class?

Somebody mentioned F1 but I agree with Martyn's observation that the delicate front and rear wings and digital racing don't mix.

I am personally in favour of American Muscle or something similar. This could include the new Scalextric Holdens (not American but certainly muscle cars).

Narrowing this down further - do we want to go vintage muscle - Camaros, Mustangs, Gran Torino, Holden Torano and Chargers from the 60's and 70's? Or do we go modern muscle (Mustang GT500, new shape Camaro etc.)?

Or are we OK with mixing vintages (let's face it the performance on the track should be the same)?

Do we go racing liveries or road liveries? Would the General Lee count in either?

There are quite a few DPR cars that fit the bill (from Scalextric and Pioneer) and a few that are not DPR for those who are happy to fit the in-car chip. I would be happy to accept any car from Scalextric, Pioneer, SCX and AutoArt (the AutoArts and SCX's would need some work and the in-car chip fitted but are a cheaper alternative as the AutoArts are about £18 on Ebay at the moment). SCX is the most dodgy because of the RX42/RX42B motor although you can get adaptors to replace an RX42/RX42B with a Scalextric Mabuchi.

ALTERNATIVELY we could go RallyCross - this will involve getting a rally car and taking out the windows, removing bumpers, spotlights and wing mirrors and painting over the headlights and rear lights. Any car that has run in any of the national rallycross events at any time would be acceptable providing they are from Scalextric, SCX, AutoArt or Team Slot. I think we should specifically ban any car from NSR, Sloter, Spirit and Ninco as they are just too fast and this is not a wallet war.

Whatever we choose - I will create a software profile in SSDC for each car so if somebody buys a car that is simply too fast I will tweak it down - the aim being to get the fastest lap times achievable with every car as closely matched as possible (who wants to volunteer to be our Stig?!?)

Don't all rush out and buy cars - give it some thought and let's discuss next week. There may be some deals we can do and if we club together there is the possibility of getting some discounts (for example if we buy 6 chips they work out at a tenner each rather than £13 bought singly).

I may also have some suitable cars at trade prices depending on what we settle on.

SO - the question is - what shall we race?

Once we settle on a class - let me know what it is you are proposing to buy and we can take a collective view on whether we think it will all hang together.
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OK - now we have got the cars, taken them out of the boxes and driven them - here are some slightly amended rules

>> Magnets must be removed
>> Light trimming of the chassis to allow free movement of the body should you wish to loosen screws. If you take too much off in an attempt to reduce weight - your car will be banned. You should not need to sand more than 1 or 2mm off the edges.
>> Weight may be added to the chassis and inside the body only. No lead. You can use anything non poisonous and non-magnetic to add weight. No external additions to the car. Replacement wings may be used as long as they fit in the standard mounting slots.
>> Axle bearings may be changed.
>> Any type of braid may be used.
>> Rear tyres may be treated with mineral oil only (3-in-one or similar) but must be dry when placed on the track. Hallucinogenics and goop are banned you hippies!
>> Rear tyres may be replaced with alternative rubber or urethane tyres of any make - please no silicones as these de-rubber the track
>> Front tyres may be treated to make them "zero grip" but they must not leave residue on the track.
>> All tyres may be glued and trued.
>> Wheels may be trued and flashing removed.
>> Paint jobs and decorative personalisation are encouraged.
>> Motors and axle bearings may be glued.
>> Front axles may be adjusted for height BUT both front wheels MUST touch the track on straights.
>> Guides must remain standard but may be filed on the leading edge if necessary (to avoid catching on lane changers).
>> Pinions and gears must remain standard.
>> Axles may be replaced.
>> Wheels may be replaced with other plastic wheels (no metal wheels). BUT no ridiculously small wheels please.
>> The track (overall width from tyre edge to tyre edge) must remain standard - no widening to improve handling.
>> Motor must remain standard and must NOT be opened under any circumstances. Motor foil must remain completely intact.
>> Rules may be changed with the agreement of at least 3/4 of current Ninco1 class drivers ("current" = has raced in the class in last 3 months)
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I have been fettling my car but won't get a chance to test it until club night.

Just to give you guys some ideas what to do...

I have added weight in the form of blu tack holding a couple of brass rivets either side of the guide - noses were lifting and cars deslotting last Wednesday so weight in the nose is probably a good idea. The blu tack is temporary - once I am happy with the amount and position of weight I will hot glue it instead.

I have not added weight at the rear - let's see what traction is like on the track on Wednesday night.

The chip is now held in with a custom plasticard holder, screwed to the chassis using No.0x6.4mm screws.

The LED now sits in a plasticard spacer so the LED is flush with the chassis underside.

Cables are tied neatly to make things less cluttered.

Rear wheels have been trued.

Rear tyres have been trued and oiled.

The lugs on the chassis side and body side to aid body location have been removed to aid body float. The chassi edges and body contact points have been lightly sanded to remove flashing and make them smooth - no major trimming required on this car.

The screw holes have been modified to allow body float and a miniscule amount of sideways movement (I read up on the science of body float).

All within the rules (the original ones which as a subset of the amended ones).

I am now stripping the paint form the body because I wasn't happy with the finish of my first livery and will try to get a better version ready for Wednesday.

Busy busy busy!
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As we have now established the Ninco1 American Muscle as our second class - this topic is now closed - race results will be posted in the race results topic.

Any suggestions for changes in the class rules - please feel free to bring it up at club night.

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