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David Moss
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461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am soon to commence with building my permenant layout and have been thinking about the back straight. It's going to be about 12 straight sections long, but as I'm running mainly late 70's and early 80's cars, I will have to let off the power only about half way down.


Now, as I don't have much money to spend on buying 4 new Parma contollers, I was wondering if I could wire a braking system into my circuit just using the old, early 80's controllers?


The power is supplied to each lane, individually, by an old 80's 'black box' Scalex transformer and the track is all Scalex Classic except for the RMS track section and 2 SCX cross-overs.

Any help would be greatfully received. (e.g.
)

Bacardibeast
 

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Matt Tucker
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3,549 Posts
You could purchase a Scaly Sport powerbase with a couple of half straight convertors and incorp it in to your track. Can pick up a powerbase very cheaply or I'm sure someone with a spare might part with one even cheaper. However you'd need new controllers unless you just want the scaly set ones in which case you can have mine for the cost of p&p.

I have used a Scaly classic powerbase plus which will connect directly with your track, use your current controllers and allows you to engage or disengage brakes via a switch on the powerbase - you should be able to pick one up relatively cheaply.

Matt
 

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Graham Windle
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4,442 Posts
matt the brakes on the power base are reverse polarity and dont function like dynamic brakes while they do work some tmes the car can attempt to go backwards after a de slot whlie the cap discharges but as you say it is an easy way to get brakes
 

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If you are a cheapskate like me, you could just add a break cable and a little brass piece in your current 80's controllers and then just connect that cable to the negative pole where the black cables join the powerbase. Et voilá! All the breaks you 'll ever need


I took some pics to demonstrate how I did it enjoy!


Just make sure the brass thing is flush with the resting step, and make sure there's a bit of plastic left on the resting step between the resistor and brass so that there won't ever be contact directly between the brass breaking strip and the resistor (Not good)


Toby
 

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Is that the brass that is on your trigger, I would like to do this too, but I'am not understanding that well. Can you please help me a little more please. resting step?
which wire am I looking at, white, blue or that other one.
cheers
 

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ok, sorry if I was a bit unclear Monaro. I chose a blue cable for the extra breakwire too, wich in hindsight might seem illogical, but that was what I had at hand at the time. If you look carefully at both the pics you will notice that the cable going to the resistor is acctually blue and white, but nevermind. In the second pic you see the added breakwire as the bottom one of the two (slightly lighter shade of blue).
By "resting step" I meant the plastic "step" that the accelerator sits on when the trigger is not pulled, this is where you want the breaks to engage. That's why I've added the extra brass strip there to allow the breaking. But like I said earlier, it's nessesary to leave a bit of insulating plastic on the edge of the "resting step" otherwise you'll short cut the power source (BAD IDEA!) instead of the trackrails. So just make sure there can never be contact between the added break cable and the resistor. And no the brass piece is not from the trigger, leave that as it is. The brass piece that I added on the "resting step" is just from something else, you could use any condutive piece of metal really. I was thinking it might work even just with copper tape, wich would be a superquick trick really, meaning no need for recessing the "resting step" to fit the brass piece flush with the plastic.

I hope I've made myself a bit clearer now
. Just ask again if you need more info!


Thanks for the kind words Bacardibeast, and good luck with the installing of the breaks! I'm sure you'll make it work!
 

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Thankx for your kind extra help, very much appreciated, I probably should've added I'am colour blind, I understand now, but do connect that add wire to the negative pole(wire) in the hand contrl itself. PS, so you could even put a little 12v volume knob in the wire to control your braking for different cars, maybe!
thankx again,
 

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Graham Windle
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4,442 Posts
QUOTE put a little 12v volume knob in the wire to control your braking for different cars, maybe!

50 OHM 3watt ceramics are good for this you can also put one in paralell to your main resistor and vary the ohmage .There you have the way a controler box works as used by most racers over here ,If any one needs a diagram theres one on my web
 

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Bastumannen: On your user posted pictures selection underneath all your posts, is that a Frogeye Sprite slot car on the far left? If it is, could you tell me where I can get one from or if its a kit.
 
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