[ListerStorm]

Hi, I want to upgrade from the stock Scaley ones that came with my track. I will be upgrading to a variable power supply later on. Is there a certain ohm rating I should get or if I get new ones now will I have to upgrade them again when I do the power supply swap? Thanks for any help.

 

[The Muffin Man]

There was a similar thread posted recently:

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...9&hl=controller

May be worth statring there to see if that gives you any pointers.

 

[Tropi]

'&hl=controller' - nifty!

 

[Sidecar Steve]

Hi Lee.

I just hooked up Parma 45ohm controllers and they are a revelation compared to the standard 60ohm scaley things. Everything happens MUCH quicker

For what it's worth, I'd recommend that if you are going to upgrade the power supply and the controllers, go the whole way and get rid of the standard sport power base and wire each lane with a polarity switch, but more importantly a fuse or circuit breaker. Can't be too careful with electricity.

From my own and others experience, it seems not so much if but when the sport base will fry itsself and then there's the AC versus DC problems...

I'm no electronics whiz but I managed it recently using a schematic I triple checked against a number of sources as well as the advice from members here. See this thread:

Sport power base replaced

Cheers

Steve

 

[Harry Porsche]

I find that touching two wires together is preferable the using the stock Scaley controllers (maybe I'm spoiled). At least with two wires, one won't get a blister on the finger!

By the way, I love my Professor Motor controllers!

Cheers!

 

[ListerStorm]

Thanks for the replys.

I think I will try the 45ohm Parma's, since I only race at home they should be sufficent.

 

[McLaren]

Get a Fly 45 ohm. They are better than a Parma and cheaper.

Lotus

 

[Harry Porsche]

Lee, just re-read your first post. The main difference you will observe with the resistor-type controller is that the various motors will draw different amounts of current. So, the lower drawing motors will be quite "jumpy" with the 45 ohm controller, while a high draw motor will be slow until the trigger is closer to full throttle (giving a narrower window or range of control). The type of power supply won't change this relationship.

Enjoy!

 

[McLaren]

I find a 35 Ohm parma resistor in a Fly controller can drive any RTR car.

 

[fouldsc]

I say you can't go wrong with Professor Motor ones, work perfectly for all cars on all power supplys - what more can you want ?

 

[roadrunner]

absolutely agree

The initial outlay for Professor Motor controllers maybe high, but the benefits easily outweigh the additional cost

 

[Intergrali]

speak to slot tech, let him build you a variable one using parma controller, better than fly and all the other makes.

Inte

 

[Mecoprop]

Some reviews claim that the Fly version 'feels better' in the hand than Parma or Prof Motor.
This 'feel in the hand', though entirely personal, is very important and, if at all possible, should be checked, literally HANDS ON, before investing much money in anything. You can swap your cars around and alter them relatively easily but a controller is more or less 'for life' and it's vital that you are comfortable with it.