[Jamie]

Hello All,

Could someone kindly remind me, which glue to be found here in the UK is the best for general fixing/restoration of cars? Preferably a glue that doesn't mist clear lenses/glass nor (painted) body work.

I have previously used three types with no joy - Superglue, Rubber Cement and Liquid Poly, however this was going back to old Airfix days and learning the hard way.

As ever, any help would be much appreciated.

Best wishes,

James

 

[BEEJAY7]

Hi Jamie

For any clear glazing fixing, headlamp covers etc., I always use Micro Kristal Klear obtainable from Grand Prix Models or most Local Model shops.

For anything that has to be firm but I might change my mind and move it at a later date than Evo-Stick Multi Purpose Impact Contact Adhesive from Homebase or similar.

For something I don't want to move, like body mounting posts, then I always use 2 part Araldite.

I found the Airfix Type Glues do tend to cause problems with clear glazed parts and it's not very strong anyway and I find Superglues dry a little too brittle for bodyparts. The Gel Superglues seem better than the normal stuff.

Regards

Alan

 

[Tropi]

For non-misting clear gluing, PVA wood glue is also quite popular. Although white as a liquid, it dries clear. It's also less brittle than many alternatives.

 

[McLaren]

'Arildyte Instant Clear' is the stuff you want. Sets in under 30 seconds and goes completely clear without misting. It's also the strongest thing in the universe ever so don't glue yourself to anything otherwise you'll need a black hole to suck it off.

Downside is that you have to mix it up, but this is easy and takes seconds to do, just don't use your finger.

Lotus

 

[David Lawson]

Two part 5 minute epoxy also is good for clear parts, it dries clear gives you a little time to position and doesn't fog the part.

David

 

[GBMark]

PVA works just great for plastic static models but not sure if it is tough enough to withstand the rigours of slot car racing ?

 

[Mecoprop]

PVA is generally accepted as being pretty good.
It retains a little bit of flexibility when set, virtually no fumes, non-toxic and an added bonus is it is easily wiped off with a damp cloth before it sets. These factors are in its favor, although it take some time to achieve full strength, which might be important in some applications. The choice tends to come down to personal preference and experience I guess - and maybe how rough a driver you are too!

 

[Jamie]

Thank you all very much for the responses, really is a great help!

To my dismay, I took my Scalextric (Club) GT40 out of the box for a clean, only to discover that more bits had fallen off!

Hence the question.

Tally so far:

Two front spot lights (1 fell off within a lap from brand new, the other shortly thereafter)
Rear spoiler (crash)
Exhausts!?
Engine cover
Engine cover (metal etched)
Wiper

I wouldn't mind so much if it was down to my driving (ahem), but only one was a result of a racing incident!

Thanks all,

James

 

[Tropi]

For little accessories as opposed to clear lenses, I would suggest considering silicone sealant. Its very flexible and less likely to cause breakage of delicate accesories. It also tends to dampen down rattles a bit. Perhaps better that the part pulls out relatively easily than breaks because the glue itself is too strong.