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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any chance of providing a wiring diagram for the new fancy driver stations?

I'm sure it would be benefical for anyone wanted to build their own at home, so they could practice with exactly the same brake settings.
 

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Andy Player
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The wiring is identical to what Andyslots built for EAHORC. That is based on the Rotary Diode Brake Kit at AB Slotsport. The main difference obviously being this is attached on the driver station side of the brake wire, rather than in the controller. There is also a jump lead that puts an 'Electronic Controller' next to minimum brakes.

I have a rough sketch I can email, but could knock up something better to post here. Plus a parts list.

Otherwise, the wiring is as per the BSCRA track wiring section, with the track wired positive to the left rail - standard HO wiring, but 'reverse direction' for BSCRA.

I should be wiring up TrackMate this week and will do a wiring diagram for that too.

Anyway, this is what they look like on the outside - thanks to MikeD's handiwork


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Andy.

I actually have those AB Slotsport pages printed out and the bits already, as I was planning to build some driver stations a while back but got side-tracked. Nice to know I can just dig that project out and finish it off.
 

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I used that diagram that Andy is referring to along with a photo of one of his driver stations when I made mine. I think the drawing could be a little clearer but it does do the job.
 

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Andy Player
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Follow the instructions on AB Slotsport and you'll be fine. Just remember to leave an extra switch contact for the EC (Electronic Controller) jump wire. The EC setting is how WHO and EAHORC switches are set up, but it is optional. You could run an electronic controller from full brakes with virtually the same results.

If you add the EC jump wire, you'll need to open out the hole on the first switch contact to fit in the two wires and the diode leg.

The trickiest thing is making sure the diodes are soldered sufficiently. Use flux on the joins and then a hot iron and plenty solder.

When Robin & me tested the switches we attached the track wires straight to a car, revved it and stopped. The motor (and gearing) should stop dead on the maximum brake settings and increasingly loosen up as less brake is applied.

You need to start on maximum brakes (the first switch position) and then add in a diode each time. If the brake stays the same between two settings (and all the following ones), then the solder on that connection needs looking at.

Parts list (per switch):

1 x Rotary switch: 1-pole 12-way break before make.

1 x knob to fit 6.35mm shaft.

8 x 1N4001 Rectifier Diodes

Plus some assorted stranded wire (you could use get the same colours as on the diagram) and I used single core for the EC jumper.

You can get these at Maplins, but I prefer Bitsbox.

Here's one I did earlier:

 

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Andy Player
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Diesel - I have some deep boxes that might help with fitting everything in. I can definitely spare you two.

For my bull ring oval I am looking at having two panels with two driver stations and one track call button in each. We reckoned just one panel was too cramped and limiting - with two we could have drivers at each end or each side or all together.

I might be asking mikefi for carpentry advice.

The way we ran the first race was that each racer had three track calls, so I am looking to make an abacus-like-thing (like from a table football table) for each drivers station too. Thanks to the bead shop in Brighton, I can do each one in the lane colour


Gareth - do you reckon 3 beads or 5 beads?
 

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I would make it with five beads. Then you have the option to run a 3 TC or 5 TC race. I think the number is very much determined by the chassis type!
 
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