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John Roche
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4,158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you have a track with conventional club sockets and a variable power supply, connecting a wire directly from live to neutral in a plug leaves a constant level of power. Useful for running in motors and gears, rounding the edges of tyres etc. In effect it bypasses the controller leaving one less thing to do with your hands.

It's one of those obvious things that it has taken me years to realise!!!!

No doubt others have beeen doing this for years


Cheers

John
 

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Premium Member
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3,083 Posts
During a visit to Savage's track a little while back I noticed that he had a variation on this theme. He uses a voltage control device wired through the plug so he can test handling etc at a lower voltage on one lane while leaving the other lanes free to race at normal speeds.

Neat idea I thought - must get one of those. I can have a sort of pace/testing lane and carry on using the other lane as normal.

I was on the point of buying one when I realised that as I had separate variable voltage power supplies for each lane I could just wire the plug as described and turn the voltage down.

Doh! The care home beckons!
 

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Registered
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1,496 Posts
OR, depending upon room inside the plugs you use, throw some diodes into the line inside a "shunt plug" to drop the voltage by around 0.6 volts per diode.
This can be used where you don't have voltage control on the power supply low enough for the purpose
Or rubber band on a controller trigger
Or just buy a Slot.it SCP-1 and stick it into Linear mode, both dip switches on top to off, and dial up your track voltage using the blue dial on the controller.
- I use this to set "Ghost cars" for videoing when no one else is around to drive me track
 

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Banned
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8,038 Posts
Its also how you set up a hybrid analogue/digital system for Scorpius.
 

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Slot King
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2,608 Posts
I use a variation of that device.
An old controller (Professor motor) with the spring taken out, so I can "dial" in any speed I want out of my non variable supply.
It was useless as a controller, but perfect for that application.

Joel
 

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Premium Member
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2,143 Posts
Linked out a 2amp plug with 10ohm resistor to use when at the 1/24 Gp12 EEC endurance races late last and early this century, you plugged in when you were away from the track just in case another car fell into your lane, the theory was that it would travel just fast enough so the marshals had trouble catching it and slow enough so as not to cause it too much damage!
Called the "Love bug", still have it.
[oneofwos]
 

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Alexis Gaitanis
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2,398 Posts
Yoy can also obtain the same results if you own a Slot.it controller,quote from manual:

Entering Mode 4
Activate the GHOST (auto run) mode by executing the following actions in sequence:
1. turn the Curve/Max knob completely counterclockwise to 0
2. put the CRV/LIN switch on LIN
3. press HAND BRAKE
4. keep HAND BRAKE pressed and press both arrow buttons (LC and Latched LC)
5. pull the trigger to full power
6. completely release the trigger
7. release all the buttons- the LEDs start flashing indicating GHOST mode
8. set speed with CM knob
 

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3,646 Posts
if you want a cheap solution a £3 dimmer switch to control voltage is ideal. its a little sqare box with a graduated knob on top and has the conectors on the outside. 2 wires in and 2 wires out. john
 

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Bill Beggs
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1,947 Posts
When I built my track I just cut a slot and wired it directly to my power supply. A wet sponge at the end is handy for cleaning tires. It can be replaced with a sanding block as well.

I use an old train transformer hooked up to small piece of MDF with a slot cut in it for desk work.

 
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