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hy, i dont own or even driven an autoart car, so this is only a supposition. the motors in the right place, lowering, braced chassis, a decent set of trued tyres and maybe a bit of lead. so put me right about them. john

edit Abie321 : Added Auto Art so as not to confuse with the Fibreglass Body Supplier - AA cars
 

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Dunno, my Impreza is a good little car, but my Ninco Impreza is much quicker due to a better motor and better handling - at £15 Autoarts are good fun but I wouldn't be happy if I'd paid £35 for it.
 

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The wheels are very narrow and the tyres of a very hard compound, even compared to Scalextric.

With AutoArt being very much in the scale accuracy business, usually the whole car is considerably narrower than many slot companies would turn out.

The gears are very, very weak in terms of quality. Also the ratios are not ideal.

The guide flag is very poor - weak and wobbly.

It's possible to make a good runner out of an AutoArt, but you've got to budget time and money.

At their current price of 9.99 - 15.99 I've bought several and don't regret it.
 

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Circuit Owner
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In my experience AutoArt cars have weak pinions, easy enough to replace, and loose wheels, easy enough to superglue. The guides are a little shallow but are passable on a flat sport track.

My Lancer is an average rally car run magless. It could be good with some work. My Shelby cobra concept is actually very quick with only a new pinion and glued wheels.

Tyres on the cobra are grippy. Tyres on the lancer really need treating.

I also have the mustang which is ok but needs a deeper guide.

All in all a mixed bag. Beautifully made but need some TLC to run well.
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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Like I said in the road cars thread. They're beautiful looking cars. They vary greatly and most need lots of work. I only have the Veyron, which is the best representation of it I'm likely to get. It's even mighty heavy like it should be.
Nothing else in a class to run it against, so I've not put any work into it and it comes out to star in photo shoots occasionally.

But they look so good. And the little prices they sell at periodically makes them so tempting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so in reallity you get a pretty car for very little money. and the chassis is okay. it just needs a bit of work. nothing i wouldn,t do to most cars. so its a concept, a mustang and the porsche for me. john
 

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Good choice.

I managed to chip my cobra concept for SSD but if you are thinking of doing it be aware that it is VERY TIGHT for space. an in-car single seater chip just squeezes in half under a front wing and the rest at the back end of the bonnet/hood. The LED has to sit about 30mm behind the guide but it works and is surprisingly reliable at lane changing (I keep the magnet in to increase the chances of the led being central over the slot).

If you want to know more about chipping it - PM me and I will take some photos for you.
 

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I'm not sure that I'm quite in the same place on this: Generally they are powered models rather than race cars. Bodies too heavy and CofG too high. I have loads of them 'cos I love the look but I wouldn't entertain stripping one for racing. That said my Mustang road car (the green 2005 one) has very soft tyres and loads of mag so it really motors. Raced against a slot.it 956 on classic track with all R2 corners it was a real competition. But eventually either the tyres would come off the rims or it would lose magnetic grip and barrel roll down the track...

Oh and the woman passenger is not realistic, she should be throwing up the way I drive...
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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QUOTE (RikoRocket @ 19 Jun 2012, 22:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Oh and the woman passenger is not realistic, she should be throwing up the way I drive...

Would it be surprising that I'd like to find more of them behind the wheel?
 

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Hi Guys,
I have a pair of each of the following Auto Art cars:
Lamboghini Murcielago
Nissan Fairlady
Porsche 911 GT3
Bughatti Veyron.

Got them all at a fair price over the years Not my favourite brand of slot car.
No getting away from it though they are all good lookers, the bodies are quite impact resistant and they are all silent runners but all 8 cars have had to be modified in one way or the other to run decently on my Classic track

All have had to be fitted with wider and more stickier tyres and then glued
The magnets on the Veyrons had to be replaced with weaker ones.

The guide blades on most of them have loosened up and pop out their mountings easily.
They also tend to run on when braking( especially the 4wd Veyron's and Lambo's)

So as said elsewhere in this thread if you are perpared to take time and spend money to do modifications you can get them to run quite well.

I think they exhibit more or less the same running characteristics as Carrera.I suppose it must be a German thing.

Best regards
Bryan
 

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I have several of them...Jag C, Mustang, RX-8 and with urethane tires on them, they go really well IMO. When you consider
the selling price and the detail/finish, I consider them a steal! (but then I like Carrera for the same reason, so maybe it's
just me).

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
not just you john the carreras are a snip too, and can be made to really run well without a mag. ps your tyres were really good. john
 

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I've got the MITSUBISHI LANCER EVO 7 which I picked up for just under £10.
As everyone says nice model but it has to be my most frustrating car. Sould be 4WD but with in a week of getting it it was making a clicking noise, the rear pinion had split so a quick pinion change and now it's RWD.
Grip was ok when I was running it on Ninco track with no magnet but now I am running it on a smooth plastic track no grip at all, when I was testing my layout with quite a steep climb it would end up sliding back down.
Don't know if it's because the guide is to shallow or if it's to do with the spring or the self centring but anything more than a gental elevation change and it will deslot. It could also be to do with the way the motor is mounted in the chassis, The motor is recessed into the chassis and then there is a slotted cover below the motor so very little clearance.
I've now fitted it with the front tyres from a Power Slot VW Polo which are slightly larger diameter and have much more grip. The extra little bit of clearance has helped the deslotting abit also put the magnet back and added weight to the very front of the body as low as possible.
Things still to try are slightly larger front tyres, could make deslotting better or worse. If I keep it as RWD make the front axle floating and make guide fixed not floating so the car rests more on the guide. Remove most or all of the cover under the motor, got to be carefull here as if I remove it all and the car grounds out it could short the track as the motor is flush with the bottom of the chassis.

In conclusion I would say - Good looking body, poor running gear, need tyre change, if you get one with the older shallow guide only good for flat tracks but definately not my slowest car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for that bit of info keith. a bit of duct tape on the bottom of the motor, should sort out any shorting issues. i regularly run all metal chassis cars on my ninco track, with tape on the bottom of the chassis. john
 

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I use cellotape, much thinner. You have to really clean the metal first, I use lighter fluid, and then when dry apply cellotape and rub it to make it bond hard.
 

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Tried a change of front tyres on the Evo it now has both front and rears from the Polo fitted and it's made the deslotting worse, Polo tyres are slightly larger diameter than the original Evo tyres. So it's either the guide, being to shallow or moving against the spring, or chassis clearance under the motor.
Interesting thing is that the Autoart tyres on the Evo have no grip at all but I fitted them to the Polo and even though the are slightly loose on the rims, Evo wheel is larger diameter but tyre lower profile, the Polo seems to have way more grip from the tyres. Could this be to do with Polo being a sidewinder and having extra weight over the rear axle?
 

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Jamie Coles
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I run a Ford GT40 and have removed the magnet, loosened the screws a little and fitted Ortman tyres.

It runs fine although there is very little braking effect from the motor when the throttle is released but rather than spend the equivalent of another car and turn it into a Slot-it car with Autoart body it performs well enough for me.

JC
 

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Just a little up date to my previous posts. I was playing about trying to pack the guide down to see if I could reduce the amount of deslots on my rally track without any success. However while I had the body of the chassis I managed to remove a wire from the motor. I soldered it back on and was trying the Evo with the body just pushed onto the chassis. What can I say the difference in handling was amazing lap after lap with no deslots
.I know people say about slightly loosing the body screws and I did have them about 1/3 to 1/2 turn undone, now I have them at least a full turn undone and the difference is really amazing. It now handles like a completely different car

Have a look at the following video the car would always deslot twice on the lefthand 180 bend of the inner section under the overhang. It would deslot, you replace it and as sone as you moved it would deslot a bit further round. At the top of the righthand down hill you had to go slow and it would deslot going up the back climb althought the track has now been changed there.

Video here
 
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