Why Does my PM have no brakes at club???
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I have just tried using the controller on my small home track and I an not sure if it has brakes on my scalextric sports track, its hard to tell though with no long straights. The advert for the PM controller says it has brakes. I have two Electric PM controllers and they r both the same.
Lift the rear wheels off of the track and rev the engine untill up to full speed. Then let off completely. You will be able to tell if it has brakes or not because it will either jerk in your hand or just keep rolling.
Don't know anything about PM controllers tho, I don't use them because I don't understand how they work, and therefore could not fix them.
Sell it, buy a Parma and be happy (35 ohm, you can use that for everything).
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McLaren
Don't know anything about PM controllers tho, I don't use them because I don't understand how they work, and therefore could not fix them.
Sell it, buy a Parma and be happy (35 ohm, you can use that for everything).
McLaren
Joined
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3,550 Posts
My PM brakes work fine at home and in club - check the wires are connected to the 3 pin plug correctly and tightly with no potential for crossed wires. Otherwise the colour coding of the wires might be mixed up? Swap them round until it works!!
Matt
Matt
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5,186 Posts
PM controllers are polarity sensitive. Depending on track connection, they will or not operate properly. This is why they are sold with instructions for the customer to READ. it explains clearly what to do. If you connected it improperly, you may have blown the electronic unit that provides brakes. It might need repair.
If you feel that the instructions do not apply to your specific problem, please contact Andy Smith (Prof Motor himself) at [email protected]. He will help you out but please be patient as he is very busy.
PM controllers are excellent and very reliable, so the issue will soon be resolved.
Regards,
Doc Pea
If you feel that the instructions do not apply to your specific problem, please contact Andy Smith (Prof Motor himself) at [email protected]. He will help you out but please be patient as he is very busy.
PM controllers are excellent and very reliable, so the issue will soon be resolved.
Regards,
Doc Pea
Joined
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150 Posts
If everything is fine, ie. all the wires are intact. Then it could be the actual lack of braking (or very little) on the controller itself. It probably won't make much sense but let me try to explain (I seriously suck at electric stuff). I was told by Mr Harry Porsche that, apparently, The Professor thinks there is too much braking force made by the controller in its standard form. He actually done some "extra work" to limit the amount of braking. I was also told that it was a very easy fix on the controller if full braking force is desired. Although I can't really remember how. Another fix/upgrade is to install a variable brake adjustment kit.
Sorry I've tried but it doesn't really seem to help, does it? Can someone help me out please?? Mr Porsche?? Or the Prof??
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Sorry I've tried but it doesn't really seem to help, does it? Can someone help me out please?? Mr Porsche?? Or the Prof??
Joined
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1,165 Posts
Dynamic braking is caused by the current flowing in the windings of the motor's armature when the motor is short-circuited while the car is coasting and the motor is functioning as a generator. The current induces a magnetic field around the armature windings that interacts with the field of the permanent magnets to develop a torque that makes the armature want to spin in a direction opposite to the direction it is being rotated by the gear train of the coasting car.
Some PM controllers - not all - contain a small fixed resistor in the braking circuit that reduces the amount of current that flows in the armature windings under braking. The lower current reduces the braking effect slightly, making the car smoother to control. You can determine whether your controller contains a resistor in the braking circuit by checking its number against PM's chart.
This resistor is not sufficient to eliminate the braking effect, but there are a number of factors that effect the strength of the braking effect and whether or not you notice it. Rather than make a long post, these factors are explained in this Dynamic Braking Tutorial. The tutorial explains braking very simply but I will be adding some sections that talk about developed torque and go more deeply into motor characteristics that effect braking soon.
James, it would have been good if you could have tested the brakes on the lane you were using at the club track while you were there - by borrowing somebody's car and controller or trying a different lane.
There are a couple of ways to test your controllers to see if the braking circuit is working. The easiest way, if you have an ohmmeter is to simply hook the leads of the meter up to the track common (ring) and brake (tip) conductors on the Scaley sport controller connector while the controller's trigger is not being depressed. If the controller does not have a fixed resistor you should get zero or very small resistance across these two conductors. My PM 2044 reads about 40 ohms. The reading on my controller is the same regardless of whether I connect the meter's red lead to tip or sleeve.
As long as the meter reading is zero or small your brakes are working - the reason you are not noticing them is either the car, the configuration of the layout, or the layout's wiring. If the meter reads open, then your controller definitely has a problem in its braking circuit.
A second - and more toilsome - way to test the controllers is to test them against each other. Scaley sport uses a connector that connects both the power, track comon and brake wires from the controller so you can't just disconnect the brake wire to turn brakes off and then reconnect it to turn brakes on without building a driver's station that allows individual connection of the three controller wires. Fergy has put a schematic for a simple driver's station that you can wire together in an hour or so here.. It includes a switch to turn brakes on and off, the easiest way to tell if brakes are working and how well a given car's brakes work.
If you don't feel like building a driver's station to allow disconnecting the brakes, you can build a long straight - just take a powerbase and enough straight track pieces to build a straight that is at least 10 feet long, prefereably longer if you can. Your cars will run on this straight even though it does not form a closed course.
Then take several cars and test how well they stop with either controller on the same lane. The braking effect can very greatly between cars. If you have a car that you know has good brakes that would be the best one to test with. If you don't know which cars have good brakes test a bunch. The braking effect is easier to notice with non-magnet cars, since they don't have the drag of the traction magnet adding to braking. Some cars - like the Momogram Corvette GS and Carerra cars - are known for poor brakes.
If there is a noticeable difference in how quickly the cars stop on the long straight between controllers then you have a reason to suspect a controller has a problem with brakes.
Sorry for the long post, hope this helps.
Paul
Circuit TrustChrist
Some PM controllers - not all - contain a small fixed resistor in the braking circuit that reduces the amount of current that flows in the armature windings under braking. The lower current reduces the braking effect slightly, making the car smoother to control. You can determine whether your controller contains a resistor in the braking circuit by checking its number against PM's chart.
This resistor is not sufficient to eliminate the braking effect, but there are a number of factors that effect the strength of the braking effect and whether or not you notice it. Rather than make a long post, these factors are explained in this Dynamic Braking Tutorial. The tutorial explains braking very simply but I will be adding some sections that talk about developed torque and go more deeply into motor characteristics that effect braking soon.
James, it would have been good if you could have tested the brakes on the lane you were using at the club track while you were there - by borrowing somebody's car and controller or trying a different lane.
There are a couple of ways to test your controllers to see if the braking circuit is working. The easiest way, if you have an ohmmeter is to simply hook the leads of the meter up to the track common (ring) and brake (tip) conductors on the Scaley sport controller connector while the controller's trigger is not being depressed. If the controller does not have a fixed resistor you should get zero or very small resistance across these two conductors. My PM 2044 reads about 40 ohms. The reading on my controller is the same regardless of whether I connect the meter's red lead to tip or sleeve.
As long as the meter reading is zero or small your brakes are working - the reason you are not noticing them is either the car, the configuration of the layout, or the layout's wiring. If the meter reads open, then your controller definitely has a problem in its braking circuit.
A second - and more toilsome - way to test the controllers is to test them against each other. Scaley sport uses a connector that connects both the power, track comon and brake wires from the controller so you can't just disconnect the brake wire to turn brakes off and then reconnect it to turn brakes on without building a driver's station that allows individual connection of the three controller wires. Fergy has put a schematic for a simple driver's station that you can wire together in an hour or so here.. It includes a switch to turn brakes on and off, the easiest way to tell if brakes are working and how well a given car's brakes work.
If you don't feel like building a driver's station to allow disconnecting the brakes, you can build a long straight - just take a powerbase and enough straight track pieces to build a straight that is at least 10 feet long, prefereably longer if you can. Your cars will run on this straight even though it does not form a closed course.
Then take several cars and test how well they stop with either controller on the same lane. The braking effect can very greatly between cars. If you have a car that you know has good brakes that would be the best one to test with. If you don't know which cars have good brakes test a bunch. The braking effect is easier to notice with non-magnet cars, since they don't have the drag of the traction magnet adding to braking. Some cars - like the Momogram Corvette GS and Carerra cars - are known for poor brakes.
If there is a noticeable difference in how quickly the cars stop on the long straight between controllers then you have a reason to suspect a controller has a problem with brakes.
Sorry for the long post, hope this helps.
Paul
Circuit TrustChrist
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265 Posts
Your club track is likely wired for positive polarity while your home layout is likely wired negative. You didn't say which controller you have but I would guess that if the brakes work at home it is wired for negative polarity. To make the controller usable with brakes on either set-up you can install a polarity switch (available on the PM site, along with excellent directions) The switch isolates the brake lead and ties it to either polarity as selected. (FZR has this upgrade as well as the PM variable brake system, and I hope he likes it
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). As to the "brake reducing resistor" on the controller, there is a resistor installed on the lower left side of the board which can easily be "jumped" as I have to get more braking power. The Prof. advised me not to remove the resistor, only "jump"it. Here's what it looks like:
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Note the bit of wire soldered accross the resistor. It is easily removed if you don't like it, too, just clip it out.
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Hope this helps!
Note the bit of wire soldered accross the resistor. It is easily removed if you don't like it, too, just clip it out.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for all your reply guys
its is wired correctly for both my scalextrix sports track and club track as I has the scalextric sport adapters on my PM r2044 controllers and I have an adapter plug that I use for the club track that I have checked.
I have also checked all the fuse joins and can see no blowen fuse on both controllers.
Harry Porche, thanks for that tip, I have just done the mod on 1 of my controllers and when reving the car up on my home sports track the rear wheels do seem to slow quicker than my other PM controller without the mod although it still does not stop the car as quick as a standard scalextric sport controller. My plan is to leave te other controller and take them both to the track on Thursday this way I can feel the difference between them both.
Thanks
James
its is wired correctly for both my scalextrix sports track and club track as I has the scalextric sport adapters on my PM r2044 controllers and I have an adapter plug that I use for the club track that I have checked.
I have also checked all the fuse joins and can see no blowen fuse on both controllers.
Harry Porche, thanks for that tip, I have just done the mod on 1 of my controllers and when reving the car up on my home sports track the rear wheels do seem to slow quicker than my other PM controller without the mod although it still does not stop the car as quick as a standard scalextric sport controller. My plan is to leave te other controller and take them both to the track on Thursday this way I can feel the difference between them both.
Thanks
James
Well I took both my PM controllers to the club last night, one with the resistor jumped as harry explained. And it made no difference both controller still have no brakes at all.
I have check the wiring for the club track and its fine. brake top pin.
I have removed the case on both controllers and checked the fuse points, all fine
I have tried both on my scalextric sports track (the controller came with sports jack) and still no brakes.
I am at a bit of a loss now.
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I have check the wiring for the club track and its fine. brake top pin.
I have removed the case on both controllers and checked the fuse points, all fine
I have tried both on my scalextric sports track (the controller came with sports jack) and still no brakes.
I am at a bit of a loss now.
Hi,
I had quite a simillar problem.
Have you checked the part of the trigger that touches the screw at the breaking point of your PM controller??? Is there dirt on the screw and/or on the trigger part that touches the screw??? If yes, clean it well.
Another thing I noticed is that the trigger touches the screw to activate the brakes. Now a screw only has little surface of contact to the trigger part.
I soldered a little "tube" over the screw so that the surface that touches the trigger part is a lot bigger. That solved all my breaking problems!!!!!
Also have a good look at the small wire that leaves the trigger. Is that wire still okay????
Hope that helps!!!
Nico
http://www.grenzlandslot.com
I had quite a simillar problem.
Have you checked the part of the trigger that touches the screw at the breaking point of your PM controller??? Is there dirt on the screw and/or on the trigger part that touches the screw??? If yes, clean it well.
Another thing I noticed is that the trigger touches the screw to activate the brakes. Now a screw only has little surface of contact to the trigger part.
I soldered a little "tube" over the screw so that the surface that touches the trigger part is a lot bigger. That solved all my breaking problems!!!!!
Also have a good look at the small wire that leaves the trigger. Is that wire still okay????
Hope that helps!!!
Nico
http://www.grenzlandslot.com
Joined
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3,550 Posts
The only thing I can think of is that your tracks are wired to a diff polarity to the PM setting.
If the PM is on the wrong polarity setting then the results are full power being applied to the car as soon as the pull the trigger a little. If this is not happening to your cars then I'm not sure - if it is you need to install a polarity switch (getslotted sell them) and then switch the polarity over.
If this is not the issue then I'd advise you contact the good Prof at professormotor.com and see if he has pearls of wisdom
Matt
If the PM is on the wrong polarity setting then the results are full power being applied to the car as soon as the pull the trigger a little. If this is not happening to your cars then I'm not sure - if it is you need to install a polarity switch (getslotted sell them) and then switch the polarity over.
If this is not the issue then I'd advise you contact the good Prof at professormotor.com and see if he has pearls of wisdom
Matt
QUOTE (mtucker666 @ 15 Oct 2004, 10:27)The only thing I can think of is that your tracks are wired to a diff polarity to the PM setting.
If the PM is on the wrong polarity setting then the results are full power being applied to the car as soon as the pull the trigger a little. If this is not happening to your cars then I'm not sure - if it is you need to install a polarity switch (getslotted sell them) and then switch the polarity over.
If this is not the issue then I'd advise you contact the good Prof at professormotor.com and see if he has pearls of wisdom
Matt
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hello Matt
No polarity is fine controller is great to race with, just no brakes.
Think I will have to give professormotor a email.
Thanks
If the PM is on the wrong polarity setting then the results are full power being applied to the car as soon as the pull the trigger a little. If this is not happening to your cars then I'm not sure - if it is you need to install a polarity switch (getslotted sell them) and then switch the polarity over.
If this is not the issue then I'd advise you contact the good Prof at professormotor.com and see if he has pearls of wisdom
Matt
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hello Matt
No polarity is fine controller is great to race with, just no brakes.
Think I will have to give professormotor a email.
Thanks
Joined
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3,255 Posts
I Would be interested in the answer as well......
I have th polarity switch on both my sons controller and mine, and they work fine at home and at our club.... - negatively wired.
Go to any other track in the country which is positively wired and we both do not have brakes. Did e-mail the prof and he seemed to think that I had blown 1 set of resistors.
Not sure which ones and wouldnt mind fixing it here ins SA rather than sending all the way to the states - so any help appreciated.
I have th polarity switch on both my sons controller and mine, and they work fine at home and at our club.... - negatively wired.
Go to any other track in the country which is positively wired and we both do not have brakes. Did e-mail the prof and he seemed to think that I had blown 1 set of resistors.
Not sure which ones and wouldnt mind fixing it here ins SA rather than sending all the way to the states - so any help appreciated.
Hi,
interesting that there are some more people who have problems with that controller. I also have the same problem. Model type is PMTR 2062 (pos wired), fitted with the variable brake system PMTR 2038, which actually have absolutely no effect.
The polarity prob which sometimes comes up on different club raceways can be solved by changing the white and black lines of the controller when connecting it to the racebox. But that won´t solve the brake prob. I´ve tried very hard to come to a solution, mailing the prof (no effect), trying different lanesetups, checking possible blown resistors and so on....no success.....at the end i took the parma turbo.
To make a long story short: Would be fine to get Infos !
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Rgds
interesting that there are some more people who have problems with that controller. I also have the same problem. Model type is PMTR 2062 (pos wired), fitted with the variable brake system PMTR 2038, which actually have absolutely no effect.
The polarity prob which sometimes comes up on different club raceways can be solved by changing the white and black lines of the controller when connecting it to the racebox. But that won´t solve the brake prob. I´ve tried very hard to come to a solution, mailing the prof (no effect), trying different lanesetups, checking possible blown resistors and so on....no success.....at the end i took the parma turbo.
To make a long story short: Would be fine to get Infos !
Rgds
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