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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The winter season draws to an end and they who shall be obeyed has been very tolerant!!!

I've drunk quite a few beers with quite a few blokes and the racing has been frantic....

Just a big thanks to slotforum members who have enabled me to have a glitch free season.

Mr Wallace for SSDC and those wonderful new upgrades making digital racing addictive
Mr riko for help in sorting out my plg sensor problem..
Mr GregK for support and help with some variable incar IR LEDS

A few photos to share with you, lots of radius 4s and 3s and two grafted in to out CLCs and a massive overpass with pitlane


Non mag american muscle with non linear throttles


Skylines with scaleauto 20,000 ball bearing motors,fast noisy and tail happy


Nascar slightly lowered mags lead in front and silicones, fast smashing and bashing


DBR9s non mag with a little lead over guide and silicones and non linear throttles a lot slower and very rewarding racing



Untill next year
or perhaps a quick garden summer event?

Thanks again slotforum
MIKEFI
 

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That brings back happy memories from a couple of weeks ago looking at those cars again Mike. You really have an excellent set up and I look forward to another session or three in the future.

Really loved the non mag American muscle. The #13 orange Camaro was stunning to look at and rewarding to drive. The Aston was a flipping pig to drive and made you sweat completing a lap!!
 

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Hi Mikefi,

Interesting track - gives me some more ideas for fitting in more track. Did you have 4 racers squeezed on the settee or were the late arrivals consigned to the floor?

I've abandoned raised elevations recently due to causing headaches with joints & power continuity, but I think it adds quite a lot. So, unless it's a trick of the light, I was just wondering whether the descending right hand curve is banked by bending or with pre-formed banking track?
QUOTE

Cheers
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi TT all the way from the otherside of the world!!!

Lane changer sensor board was easly removed from half straight.unsoldering the power wires from the track..noting which wire goes to what slot rail..In my case I power all my lane changers with a separate power supply a legacy of the old 4 car powerbase.so i connected up a length of wire to go to my power supply.Then offer it up to the piece of track you want to graft it into in my case a radius 3 bend and connect it to the L.C part,of course making sure that the sensor part is lined up centre of track....I then used masking tape to mark out area of underside ribs of track to be removed and a little slot to accomodate the 2.5mm jack plug that connects with the lane changing part...Using a stanley knife ,scalple you can score ribs down both sides and they snap off cleanly from track underside...clear out ribs and a little from bottom of slot so that sensor board sits flat.and the 2.5mm jack is lined up with socket on L.C....stick sensor board on roughly with masking tape and turn over track to mark area of metal rail that needs clearance for sensor.....I used a round file or a dremel mini grinding bit to carefully removed metal from inner rail..once you have broken through the rail it files much easier....enlarge hole to match the size of original hole in half straight...and clean up rough edges of rail...get the hot glue gun out and stick the sensor board to the track and resolder the power wires back onto the rails, alittle bit of gaffer tape to protect the now exposed sensor board and bobs your uncle.......A few beers a little bit of sweating and the odd naughty word or two
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi chris

Nothing special going on here,,,the track elevations are jigsawed 4mm mdf and supported on closed cell ridged foam blocks which are very easy to cut and get to the correct height .... the right hand decending bend consists in order a single radius 3,double banked R3,HalfR2,singleR3,double banked R3and finally aR4.....

I have access to some ridged closed foam offcuts which with the careful use of a snap off blade type stanley knife I can cut into thin and variable wedges


These make fantastic track supports you can see the ends poking out of the curve and they seem to support track very well..

Together with the usual track end crimping with pliers and the use of TAMIYA Switch lubricant on the male parts of joiners I have had no bad joints

Cheers MIKEFI
 

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Ooo. Cool. You make it sound so simple. Is this restricted to just the bigger curves, or do you think it could be done on a R2 or even R1?

TT
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
TT hi again

I took inspiration from a post made a couple of years ago and i think that was grafted into a Radius 1. I would think that the sensor board would be at a bit of an angle and it would be fairly critical to get the 2.5mm jack and jack socket to line up correctly...

Radius 3 before and after CLC makes for a swift lane change and in to out makes it flow really well......I had started out with a out to in CLC but after snapping off two guide blade supports from brand new cars I lost faith in the out to in CLC with a straight in front of it...

More info from the forum inspired me to reverse the out to in CLC to a in to out CLC and graft the sensor board into corner piece and it really works well, so now have two of these elements at either end of layout making a poor mans racing line.......

Cheers MIKE
 

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Hi Mike,

Do you have a track plan tucked away on your PC??
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Greg

Sorry mate no,did have a go at a few of those track building programmes but ended up getting a little bit inpatienent and cross with them!!!!!

Its stick it together and see if it works.......and it is the third year thats its been put up over winter and I have learned a lot from trial and error..and squeezed as much track as I can into space....Its a fast and flowing circuit and as you know with 5 drivers going at the same time you don't need anything to be too complicated

Cheers mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just had a count up of track pieces
22 Radius 4
39 Radius 3 !!
3 Half R2
2 modded CLCs
2 XLC
1 pitlane
18 straights

This is lasts years winter rug racing

 

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A track with 22 x Rad4 and 39 x Rad3 corners pieces ................ no wonder that video was so fast. I wouldn't want to be near that lot if one comes off after a straight
I bet the old cat leaves the room


That is a very serious track.
I was trying to work it out how it was made but now I know there are no Rad2s, I can understand why I couldn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry greg I miss counted there is one radius 2..
.and of course the 4 that make up the 2 CLCs so that makes 5
 

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Oh ...... that makes all the difference then .........
 

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nice thread ..

Great to finally see a few d-rug racers. ( digital rug racers


Any magless d-rug racers around ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This years track wrapped up in a nice bit of fun iphone editing by Zhenya on the orange topped throttle!!!!

 

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I was right about the cat ........
 

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Ihavenoidea films.

Quite enjoyed that, I think the music gave it a tense feel, loved the CG for the barrel roll, and the cop car crash. Nice
 

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Looks good from the vids.

I use closed cell foam wedges too - very versatile. Currently elevating one end of my little rally section I'm fooling around with.
 
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