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Alan Wilkinson
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I started this hobby about 2 years ago, I've followed the traditional wire insertion method, using eyelets.

Eyelets work well but there are several different sizes (diameters) and coupled with the different braid depth.... It's becoming a bit of a mission to find workable guide, eyelet, braid combinations.

Since thunder slot released the Lola kitted out with the thunderslot mk1 guide, I've started playing around with set screws (grub screws) to hold the power wires in place.

Using UNC4-40 set screws seems to be the new approach but I've found that the screws can cut into the braid strands.
I noticed that one of my slot-IT cars was supplied with the set screw fitting method.

Who's using what? And why?
AlanW
 

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As far as I know, Thunderslot uses M2.5 grub screws, not 4/40UNC for its guide and, strange but true, in a Thunderslot model I bought, there was grubs AND eyelets at the cables.

I never cut the braid with the Thunderslot or Black Arrow frontal grubs insertion; sometimes I did it with Slot.it method (where grubs are parallel to the wire,), until I saw a post here where suggest to tin the wire (and it works)
 

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With al the (endurance) testing for the DISCA LM 24hrs I have come to the following best procedure (I.m.o) a combination of both.
I prefer the bigger M 2,5 grub screws to secure the braids and leadwires, but will use brass eyelets to protect the lead wires from being cut.
For easy fitment I crimp the eyelets flat on the lead wires, it also keeps them from falling of while changing braids
wink.png


Pitcured below is a modified Scaleauto guide with self drilled and threaded holes for the M 2,5 grubs.
With the eyelets crimped you gain the rigidity of material for the grub screw to press on, but keep the full flexibility of the lead wire.
With tinned lead wire ends it is hard to control how far the tinn gets sucked into the lead wire, which can create a rigid and thus break point in the wire.

M2 grubs, specially those with a pointed tip are more likely to split, cut of even miss the lead wire all together during a quick pit stop than the broader (flat) tip of a M2,5 grub. But yes you do need to drill the hole and thread it carefully, but when done well no splitting of the guide... that is unless you over tighten the grubscrew.

With kind regards
Tamar

Guide_eyelets.jpg
 

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Rich Dumas
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4,210 Posts
I have tried using set screws with guide flags and found that even if they do not cut the wire immediately they are likely to do so eventually. I still like to use eyelets, but I get slightly over-sized eyelets from Professor Motor that never pull out.
 

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If I am stuck with using a grub screw (as per current slot.it releases) I remove the tinning at the end of the lead wire (as I find this causes a stress point that snaps the lead wire anyway) and I put the braid between the grub screw and the lead wire. This will cut the braid, but that is a consumable anyway.

I convert my cars to eyelets ASAP though. Once they are fitted a dab of clear nail varnish holds them securely. A tiny flathead screwdriver will prise them out when it's time to change braids.
 

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After many a lead popping out of guides I went down the grub screw route, 2mm or 2.5mm depending on the guide. It will trash the lead eventually but I mostly do sprint races so hasnt happened during a race yet. I like Tamar's crimped eyelet + grub screw idea though so I will try that on this week's build.
 

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4,422 Posts
I like Tamar's crimped eyelet + grub screw idea though so I will try that
me too

I have gone to grubscrews lately but I dont tin the lead wire. The screw is turned down into the mix of braid and wire strands....it works so far.
 

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I cant stand the slot.it style M2 grub screws.. I always launch them and use eyelets..
Iv got a variety of eyelets, enough to fit most Guides..
I like the Scaleauto Guides, and I use a lot of Slotit CH85 and Wood Guides.
Almost all my cars are setup like this..
NSR Tinned Braid - Cut to 30mm - Squish one end so its wider by a mm, use tweezers to fold over, so the end is double thickness - Insert into guide, use Allen key to manipulate the braid so eyelet can be inserted - its always tight and hard to insert the eyelet, probably quite awkward in comparison to other methods.. But since Iv been doing it like this, Iv never had an eyelet fall out.

Tamar, I like the look of that, pretty sexy looking :thumbsup:
 

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Alan Wilkinson
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great feedback guys!

For endurance racing the "thunderslot" type approach detailed by Tamar above does seem the way to go.
(Eyelets with perpendicular securing set screws)

Dale, I also dump the slot-IT set screws, just too hard to work with when they are not firmly located in a threaded hole (wheel, crown etc)

For sprint racing, I just have to find the right eyelets for my selection of guides, matched to NSR 0.2 Braid.

if I ever find a perfect match, I'll post it in this thread
AlanW
 

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just too hard to work with when they are not firmly located in a threaded hole
with the braid and wire strands in the hole screwing an m2 grubscrew down the centre, which bites into the softer copper of the braid and wire, things are secured firmly.

I have never had a grubscrew pull out but have had an eyelet do it but....each to their own.
 

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For them having trouble with the screw system i have found that a small drop of oil on the threads before inserting the screw helps a lot, also reduces the possibility of damage to the wire but make sure the oil used doesn't attack the plastic or you will have more problems when the guide breaks up during racing!

[oneofwos]
 

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My favourite method back in the day was to use this type of guide

Rectangle Wood Font Technology Food


but with a small self tapping screw with the wire wrapped around it passing through the braid into the bottom part of the guide. That way the braid can't pull out and I never had a wire snap.
 

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