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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I was after some advice about getting my track wired up for brakes. I have some of the 3 pin sockets and wired up my track without brakes and everything is fine. I then tried to get it working with brakes (following the wiring diagram from hoslotcarracing) but when I connect it up like that i have no power.

I'm using a regulated laptop power supply and am just trying to get 1 lane working. Any clues what I am doing wrong.

Jim
 

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Yes there is, and they MUST be adjustable to suit you, your car and your controller, full brakes or no brakes is a no brainer.

A multi-position rotary switch (8-10) position, to switch in a chain of diodes, one after another, to step the amount of braking voltage available to the car.

You can make it yourself, it is quite simple and relatively easy to do.

Once you are used to it, your lap times will fall and the handling of your car should improve too.
 

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Rich Dumas
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Most of the people that I race HO with do not use brakes, even with T-Jets. I have used diodes to reduce the track voltage, but not to reduce braking, it would be easier to put a 100 ohm potentiometer in the brake circuit to get adjustable brakes. High end inline magnet cars have so much downforce that they hit a brick wall when you get on the brakes, even if the brake wire is left disconnected. High end HO controllers have a coast feature, so the voltage never goes to zero. The coast is adjustable via the same pot that is used for the brake control in most cases.
 

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In the UK the opposite is true, most of the HO clubs use brakes, usually with low end controllers, on the chassis that have a low braking effect such as stock Tyco, stock Mega g and similar.

On our club set up, braking is the norm for all racers, to a lesser or greater degree, some using the minimum and some winding it well on.
 

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QUOTE (sunsetman @ 4 Aug 2011, 15:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Rich have you got a link preferably UK based for the 100ohm potentionmeter.

Thanks Wayne.

100 ohm potientometers available at Farnell.com, they list a few I dont know which one you would want!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hello again. The problem was solved by switching round the 2 wires going into the 3 pin socket (not the brake wire at the top). I'm not sure why this should make a difference as it's a standard parma controller, not diode or electronic. It now works fine, I am assuming I have wired up my plug correctly.

With regards to the questions posted above at the moment I have just got it set up for full brakes as a test but I plan to add a variable feature. Just with a quick bit of experimenting I have found that my lap times are a little quicker with the brakes. My setup (not permanent) is only 8 x 4 ft (the layout is the Ravinia 35 from hoslotcaracing)

As Julian mentioned earlier without brakes I would never get to full throttle but with them I can down the back straight (albeit very briefly) and still make the corner at the end. With my marchon the difference is less noticable but with the tyco and mega G my times were better with brakes. I'm sure being able to adjust them will bring further improvements.

I am assuming for the variable brakes you just need to add the potentiometer in line in the brake circuit??? Can anyone confirm that?

Jim
 

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QUOTE (Jimb0 @ 4 Aug 2011, 20:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am assuming for the variable brakes you just need to add the potentiometer in line in the brake circuit??? Can anyone confirm that?

Yes, you're just reducing the amount of voltage produced by the back EMF from the motor, with full brakes you get all of the voltage, by introducing a potentiometer (fancy name for a variable resistor) you can vary the reverse voltage (produced by the motor) that is fed to the motor. I hope this makes sense.

The reason changing the wires over worked was because when the controller is closed, the red wire and black wire are connected to each other, the black wire needs to go to one track rail, the red wire needs to go to the other rail and one terminal of the transformer and the white wire has to go to the other terminal of the transformer. When the throttle is closed, this shorts the rails to each other, creating a circuit with the motor of the car acting as a generator, the voltage produced by this generator is then fed back into it, which makes the motor attempt to turn backwards, and creates the braking effect.
 

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Andy Player
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This is how many of us have wired up variable brakes here in the UK.

This set-up easily fits onto the brake wire in the driver station rather than in the controller - as andyslots has done for the EAHORC stations and many of us have copied.

Andy also has a by-pass wire for the 'EC controller' setting - which allows you to use the settings on more expensive controllers without any interference from the diodes in the switch.

The rotary switch, knob, diodes and wire come to less than £2 per lane from bitsbox. The soldering is remarkably straightforward - just make sure the diodes are all pointing in the right direction


In the meantime, running most EAHORC-style cars on full brakes will be absolutely fine on a home track. Cars with stronger mags don't need brakes and you can remedy this in the short-term by unhooking the brake wire from the plug, or use another controller with no brake attached to the pin on the plug.

Have fun
 

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Rich Dumas
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Take a look at this diagram. If your track is not wired for brakes and you use resistor controllers it does not matter how the two controller wires are connected. When the track is wired for brakes and you switch the wires that go to the wiper and the resistor you will get a dead short across the power supply when the controller is in the off position. Once the trigger is pulled enough to get the wiper off of the brake contact the controller should work properly.

 
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