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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, yesterday I learned a new trick.
We had a championship race at our club with many of the best italian racers, it was a "GT Light" class, in short it is a class with in-line motor GT cars, with OEM replacement bearing, axels, etc. admitted and Slot.it V12 23K motor. (most racers used Fly 911 GT1 98.)
During practice an experienced racer explained me I had to use Ninco or Fly bearings (2.5 mm.) with 3/32 axels...
I was quite surprised by this suggestion: a wobble rear axel?????
Anyway I tried the trick - I always try almost everything! - and it worked: I immediately gained 2 tenth.

I tried to understand why and I decided the principle behind is the same of flexy chassis with "metal" cars, something like loosening the screws fixing the slot.it motor mount, etc.
Of course this trick should work only with in-line motors.

Ciao
Otello
 

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Beppe Giannini
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1,696 Posts
Looks like nobody has a clue !!

About the race Otello mentions, there were 48 entrants - not bad for a regional event
But what really bothers me
is that Salvatore Noviello won hands down : he hadn't been racing for months (on Saturday he showed me the blisters on his controller finger) and got a car ready at the last moment
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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I think that's why many folks say non-Sport Scalex cars run better...the plastic bearings allow more movement (but the gears and bearings don't last as long...if that matters).
 

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Brian Ferguson
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I agree with Bill. Any shaft bushings (motor, axle) should have the smallest tolerances that still permit free movement - better yet, ball bearings. If the car is faster with badly worn or oversize bushings, it is a clear indication that there are serious inadequacies elsewhere in the chassis. Then again.... we ARE talking about plastic chassis.... so it doesn't surprise me greatly that the proper way and the fastest way aren't always the same....
 

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I'll "third" Bill's opinion.

FWIW, the HO guys see the same thing in their cars.

The sloppy bushings provide a crude sort of suspension that helps the handling when there is little or no flexibility in the chassis itself.
 

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Hi Otello,
Loose axles and drive parts on models that are raced on plastic tracks aren't a particular problem, if anything, you could hypothesize that there are smaller contact surfaces giving less friction and more space for lubricant but one fact is a strong traction magnet will remove any slack from the drive train.

Run the same car in a non magnet situation on a grippy surface and you will almost certainly find it will judder and hop and do all sorts of hateful things.

Rally cars seem to be a strong class where I race and some nights we race on a plastic track and others, we race on board. SCX cars have a good showing as they are probably the most prolific manufacturer. Straight out of the box on plastic, they don't have too many vices and with the Pro Turbo update to the motor, can hold their own.

The same car on painted board will demonstrate the most heinous of handling characteristics!! SCX build quality is a bit short of its competitors (sorry SCX!) All the bushes are sloppy and loose, the motors sometimes rock in their mounts and guides get a 20 degree lean over in corners. Once these faults are addressed, they are as competitive as any other (on board).

Although I have many makes of slot cars, I am a great fan of SCX simply because firstly they are ridiculously cheap here (from AU$29.00) and secondly I enjoy getting them working well and beating other, far more expensive cars. (Sad, isn't it!)
 

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Hi all, I usually race with Otello and I, too, was surprised, to say the least
, when I saw what Otello has described; of course there were no magnets at all, as usual in our races, and the cars were tuned and raced by very experienced people, with chassis carefully chosen, and balanced with lead. Results speak for themselves, so we are trying this trick also in our cars : work in progress, for now!
Ciao
 

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I also agree with bill. if u have to worry about little stuff like bearings, tire gue, etc, to make ur car faster then that means u need a new car!
 

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how many o' the naysayers tried this prior to voicing an opinion? i also have seen good results with loose bearings. especially noticed when decided to replace worn out bearings with new, in an attempt improve performance, and achieved the opposite.

this doesn't always work, for me, but now and then .....
 

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so what your all saying is if i get the new ninco clk then stick a slot it axel kit on it with the ninco bearings then it will be faster than if i use the slot it bushings?
and if i use the proslot tyres and the motor out of the m3 (scaleauto) then i will have a very competiive car?
 

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Nah, what is being said is that quality control on the plastics is so poor that nothing really works as it's supposed to so you need to finagle it
 
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