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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello all, i'm new to this site, and in fact, new to scalextric completely, The last time i used one i think i was 6 at a friends house hmnnn .... now after seeing a few videos on u-tube of the new digital setups, it got me thinking, as ive always been very good with my hands at making things, and ive always wanted to "try" and make a track layout..... so i went straight in head first and bought the track with a 6 car powerbase, 2 straight lane changes, 2 curved lane changes, 1 crossover curve, a pit lane with game, 4 cars and a plate of egg n chips..ok you get the picture... now within 3 weeks start to finish i had made what i thought was a nice looking track, although it kinda looks permanent it isnt, its a take down version in 3 parts, roughly around 8ft 4 inch by 4ft 5 inch, im guessing its around 4o ft of track, all this without seeking any advice OOOoops, other than looking at video's floating around..i had no idea until half way through that there were things like grass matts etc, but the moss look basket liners worked really well ;-) anyways, im facing a few problems as you can imagine, one is cars stopping at lane changes and crossovers etc, now i added power booster cables which really didnt help much at all, somedays they would run smooth other days the cars would slow down then eventually stop, aghhhhhhhh, then i realised a second transformer was needed, doh , got that sorted, then now a new problem has evolved in the form of a powerbase going into safe mode all the time from startup...i get a buzz sound when i insert a second transformer at times, me thinks i'm about to cry hehe, any help would be greatly appreciated, im new to this so please explain like you would to a 5 year old or your wife ;-) ...thankyou
ps, i will add some pics to help if i can figure out how, i cant see a browse and insert picture uploader ....
 

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Premium Member
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Best option would be to add pics, then we know what you've got and what power supplies etc.

To add a pic, if your not a plus member.

setup a photo bucket account
upload your pic
make sure its viewable by the world and his missus
hover your mouse over the pic and it gives you a selection of options, click on "IMG Code" and it will copy to your clipboard.
simply paste this into your message.

Hey presto, you have a pic

Oh, and welcome to the site and the hobby
 

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thanks for the reply, did i mention i'm carp with pc stuff once it goes into codes and the like,, ok ive created an account, ive gone onto the img code, it says copied, but to where, i see no clipboard ? hmnnnnnnnnn
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
haha sussed, and thanks lee..
the track isnt quite finished on these pics, but you get an idea of what i'm dealing with....
this track is in 3 individual take down pieces, 1 join is at the end of the bridgstone tunnel, the other join is by the small loud speaker near to the smaller building which i made, ive hidden the joints as much as possible so it looks more like a permanent board, takes 5 mins to take down completely.... all i wanna do is raceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee ;-(
 

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Prof I T
Ting Tong
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hi
and that is one mighty fine looking layout.
and welcome to the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hi and thanks bigbird, the pics dont really do it justice mind, as it doesnt really show all the detail, but i'm pleased with my first try at a track layout...i didnt want to go overboard with it as its a take down setup..ive just got to iron out these power issues and glitches which pop up from time to time.... i want to build another now ive learnt more ;-)
 

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Prof I T
Ting Tong
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hi
digital layouts are far more critical when it comes to conductivity,so it is important to crimp all the track terminals at the track ends before laying the track.

Also one product that stands head and shoulders above all in helping this is inox mx3
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ive got some reading to do then hehe , when you say crimp, do you mean on the female ends of the metal track, as in squeeze it together more so when inserted its a tighter fit ?... ill do a search see if i can find anything
 

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Hi Pinhead69 and welcome to the forum,
Nice looking layout you have there. Have you given the track a good vacuum, you might have some loose braid wire shorting out your track somewhere. When you crimp the rails turn a piece of track over and you will see that there are a few little metal lugs which tie/hold the rail to the plastic track. If you use a couple of flatheaded screwdrivers,one in the slot and one to push the metal tab down to tighten the rail to the track your conductivity will improve greatly. On most scalextric track these metal tabs have not been fitted tightly in the first place. Its well worth the time to do all your track and then re-lay it to the design you have already, then you wont be loosening the connections again. Hope this helps.
Cheers
Matt
 

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I so hope you get your power sorted, the track looks amazing. Do you hav any pics of is pulled apart?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks matt... and wraith, i hav'nt got pics of it in 3 pieces as yet, but when i carry it upstairs i will take some..
my original idea was, as you dont see many permanent looking tracks that are a take down, and hearing that some people cant have a large setup up permanently, i thought, people could send me a pic of their layout, i then make that layout with my track and then build a base for their design...after alot of thought, the hours you put into making these would'nt make it worth it, although i do enjoy doing this kind of stuff...i made this without knowing about all the little things you can buy, at the last minute i did get a gravel matt, but after using it, its better to make your own... then i joined my first site here where everyone is so helpfull, so sod the idea of work and gain, although making these things do take alot of work, i will help out in anyway i can artistically wise, ive always made things from items people just throw away, i see things and think yeah i can make that into a blah blah blah... heres a few pics of the things i used..
firstly, the mud was 151 brown frame sealant from most pound stores..it can cover a large area, just be artistic with your fingers hehe you can add a few dabs of paint here and there to just add lighting effects etc etc, the sealant is more like an acrylic so its good to use, and i just dropped a few dried chunks of wall filler on top for large bolders... see pics

the mesh fencing at the side, is a gutter guard plastic mesh which i cut down also from a pound shop, this will do lots, the uprights were parts of a cut up scalextric barrier....
the barriers are all held by a pot rivet which i just drilled a hole same as and dropped them in, looks better than a large plastic clip ;-)

i used large wall plugs for this pillar, thought it would look ok, it is again held with a pot rivet underneath sticking upwards like with the barriers

the grass i used was a nortons 12" moss look round basket liner, you can stretch it and shape as desired, even trim with hair clippers this was £1.50 i used 2 for the whole track

the bridge pillars are just large plastic downpipe
the track originally had a volcano lol
the pipes i used were just bits of plastic i found again with bit of scalextric barriers scattered and a small clump of cork for rubble
the tunnel, stewards hut and derelict arch were all just made from mdf using a dremel type tool to add damaged brick shapes , they also have lighting fitted, which i used the LED's from cigarette lighters, i just looked for something they would fit in, then you just push them down to trigger the connection tab to light them up, they all run on those tiny little watch battery types, saves on using another electricity supply where kids are involved...
the buildings are strategically placed to hide the 2 joints of the 3 part take down as is the crumbling arch... all the rocks are of course expanding foam, but applied with a foam gun rather than the ones with the silly plastic tubes,just look for the gun applicator types, some cans can be used by both methods, you have more control with it and a adjustable release for the more delicate of rocks etc..... ive still got to add alot more detail to all this, but i know , as this is my first attempt, the second will make this look pathetic ;-) hope these pics can help someone
my pit crew did think it was more fun to play war games then fit tyres
and the last pic is when i first layed the track all out working out what heights etc etc

the next one i do will be huge ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
oh yeah haha it was a new dbr9, i just kinda mad maxed it a little bit with metal mesh over the windows then painted it matt black etc ,i added an extra magnet aswell , but it makes driving boring with no skill needed to get around tight bends fast. i hate just pinning the throttle, my dog could do that lmao, so i took it back off.
ive come to prefer a more skillfull race where throttle control is vital rather than pure clamp down and run speed, racing becomes boring like that i think., thats why i put R1 bends in ... the car was just a quick mess about as i'd broken the spoiler, so its glued on lower now
 

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Alfie Noakes
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Hi Pinhead,
Welcome, and thanks for sharing the track pix. That's a great track for an 8x4 board.

Just wondering if your problem is being caused by only having one cross over curve, which would mean that your track is effectively one long single lane track. Just a thought?
Cheers,
Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks rich, i tried to make it less boring as possible, its slightly over 8 ft more 8"4' by 4"5' those extra inches do count ;-) yeah i did wonder about the crossover, especially when i had booster cables on, when they were connected i had to go from the inside to outside lane as they connected before and after the crossover, ok in theory, but as the power circulates both ways, at some point they become opposite lanes hmnnnnnn.....maybe im connecting them wrong, i could put my lane change curve back there again as its under the large pillars at the moment.....i will be removing all the track monday and crimping the lane clips, then maybe buy some inox or whatever its called, just wondering wether to cut the track lugs off or not though, as there are mdf borders built tight to the track most of the way around, and its a pain if i need to lift one up to work on.. i cant secure them all down due to the fact its a take down setup, at some stage a piece of track covers a joint, but that also hides the fact it comes appart....i did my boosters like this....my question is, what about the other side of each lane ?


yeah wraith its my fave car already, and as far as my others go, its alot quicker, and should i mash it up, it will only look better, i had metal studs to put on the wheels, but it was removing paint from other cars, boner being the frase lmao, guess nobody would try overtaking me then, bonus ;-) i will put more on it soon so its not recognisable...
I WANT THIS CAR pioneer apparently are bringing this out soon
 

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Gday again,
If you have put power taps to your track as shown in the picture you have only added the power tap to the one lane (lane 1 or lane 2), you need to do this to the other lane as well and make sure these are then connected to the corresponding lanes where you have the tap closest to your powerbase(thats what I have anyway and works a treat). Good pick-up by richardthefourth about only having the 1 corner crossover in your layout, I believe that you either need to remove this and replace it with your CLC or add another corner crossover(I'd use the CLC as you get too many crashes using these although I do like them myself). If you have got yourself a can of Inox this stuff does work a treat and you only need to use it every so often, put some on a rag etc and just wipe it onto the rails. If you crimp the lugs, add the booster cables to the other lane, remove or replace the corner crossover and then give it a clean and a little Inox, your conductivity problems should all be solved.
Cheers
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ahhhh so my suspicions were kind of right then , thanks for that matt, i wouldnt of done anything without somebody telling me for sure, i will do it all monday and order my inox ... when i make another base like this, at least i'll know to channel for more cables now , thankyou
 
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