Magnets make all the difference. You need to use some kind of spec magnet to make things even or competitive between makes. Otherwise it's who has the best stock mag in their car. And there are tricks to that. Buy a pile and test them. They vary severely in quality.

Non-mag, an NsR Mosler will run with the Slot.it's. So will a Spirit Reynard.

Mag racing, it's all down to who tunes the magnet close enough to the track before going overboard and slowing the car too much on the straights.

IHSR ran a spec series with a PM 1063 gold spec magnet and a 3/64" ground clearance which had several different types of cars win and do well. Even a well set-up Fly Panoz won a couple of events.

Bob

 

No disrespect munter, but are you as fast as the other guy's?

I am sure others here will suggest a big list of possible cars and tweaks, but tell us how you rate ur track craft.

 

Off the top of my head, one of the reasons you're getting beat with your Jag is your motor. The new V12/3 is a much better motor than the 25k V12/2. They'll easily pull away from you on every straight because they have twice the torque. Zip! I've been there and done that to people. Some said I got 4 feet a straight in our Slot.it class at one race. Needless to say, the V12/3's started appearing in every car after that.

As for the magnets, try and measure a few of them to see which is stronger. An axle and a millimeter stick is all you need to see which one jumps to the axle from the fartherest away. With the standard Slot.it C-Bar magnets, I got variance from 4 to 10-11 mm.

Another thing: I know here in the Northern Hemishpere, you also want the North side of the magnet DOWN to the track. I have no idea if you want the south side down where you are., but that also does have a noticeable effect. My weaker Slot.it C-bar magnets were all south side down when I checked that with a compass. That's an old HO dirty trick that was passed on to me.

Bob

 

Thanks Guys
To Honest Judge...I rate my track skills as OK.Iv'e been slotting for the last five years,admittedly mostly on my own track.Perhaps my post suggests I am trying to win by buying the next thing rather than tweaking what I have.

To Chapparal 2D....I think I have the v12/3 motor in the jag.It has the orange endbell.21000 rpm.cant remember the torque figure though.I have also added the large diameter slotit hubs and suitable tyres as the magnet was scraping on the track rails (they're quite high on the ninco track) This improved the car.....should I go for the next level motor as the car handles well?

Thanks again any further comments ?
I appreciate your input.
John

 

I dont race magnets any more but from my magnet days i remember that gluing small bar magnet(s)under the rear axle, 1 parallel to the motor(sidewinder)or 1 magnet each side of the crown gear at 90 deg to the axle(in line)was very effective.I used the magnets found usually in Scx cars such as the Fiat Abarth.To hold each magnet in place until
the glue sets i used another magnet under the chassis.
Good luck

Alexis

 

If you run with magnets try a Fly Viper. It will blow the ones you mention away.

To keep up with the SlotIt motor you'll need one with the Fly Racer motor in it (any one released after 2004 will have this).

 

A couple of suggestions:

Try to find out what gearing is being used in the Nissan. You've probably got enough motor in the car for a 30m track, so gearing may be the way to go.

Is the Nissan running inline or anglewinder? Slot.it are releasing an anglewinder chassis for each of their compatible cars is due course (which includes the Jag), so it may be a case of being patient and then performing a wholesale transplant with a new-style boxer and anglewinder set-up later in the year.

Also, what colour motor mount is the Nissan running - if it's grey (i.e. vertically offset), you could try the same mount in your Jag (especially since you have larger rear hubs) - but you'll need an offset crown gear to match it.

I guess by 'race magnet' you mean the 'H' shaped one.

What you don't say is where the Nissan and Ferrari are better than your Jag - down the straights (gearing), in the corners (offset), or are you just getting pasted all round (try having a friendly swap with the Ferrari driver and see if he still wipes the floor with you - could be a clue!

)

Also, I'm assuming that you're not still running with the stock tyres that came with the car and that you're on P4's, or some after-market tyre (I've found in my short experience with them that Ortmanns don't have such a great advantage on Ninco track, but others with more experience, i.e. Bob/Chaparral2D, may know better).

The stock tyres are known to be not the best nowadays.

Alternatively, get a Scaley MG Lola and just keep that finger crushing the trigger...

 

The 25k "Yellow" endbell is the way to go on NINCO track, yes, esp. with the magnets. As for gearing, it tells you something when the V12/3 Nissan uses a 9/26 ratio instead of the normal V12/2 9/28. It's got that much torque it just accelerates that well!

Good question about P4 versus Ortmann on NINCO. I mucked about with that and I'm frankly unsure if the Ortmann's have an well-defined advantage over the P4's on that surface. We only have one track in our league that uses NINCO. I'll be there Saturday and try and find out. Half the challenge in our series is sometimes trying to find the right tire for the different tracks. Makes you feel like the F1 guys trying out the A and B compounds...

The only problem you may have with Ortmann's would be they may wear quickly on that track. I'd keep spares, and probably try the 20x11 Ortmann's to keep the mag a bit off the rails and to compensate if the tire grinds down. Yes-- that's what I did running my Audi at our NINCO track last time, and it worked, and I didn't fail the tech ground clearance by grinding down the tires during practice. I think a couple of people did!

And yes, the Scalex Lola might be a competitive car on NINCO track. Slip in one of the 30k scalex tuning motors and better rear tires, the only problem you might have is a wish for a deeper guide flag, or maybe a touch of lead or clay in the nose. Once in while a couple IHSR guys did well with them but I wasn't afraid of them with my Audi. they usually switched out the rear axle and motor to all slot.it parts.

Bob

 

Since this section is sponsored by Spirit and also because it is a excellent car. The Spirit Dallara should be on your list.

Go for the new Kit version which you can paint. The running gear from the Slot.it car will fit in it if needed. You should be able to get one from ebay for around £20 plus postage to NZ.

It is a very stable a balanced car and it has the option of a short or long motor option and a couple of places for magnets.

The Fly Lola B98 series are really good in magnet class too. The Black Motorola car has the Fly Racer motor in it.

 

Yes, Mr.C-- A well prepared B98 if magnets are equal with that fly racing motor is very smooth and quick. I really haven't seen a Dallara raced but once, but would think it's similar to the Reynards when ran and prepared well.

Bob

 

Thanks for that information.I will try different gearing in the jag and some magnets in the rear of the Reynard.
Thanks again
John

 

hey munter which motors are you allowed to run.can you run any motors if so sauber merc inline boxer pod and 38nsr king and the nissan is history .if not get the merc anyway its twice the car the jag is.

 

Most of the classes we run are non magnet (which is my preference, faster driver should win, not fastest car). Of the magnet cars we do run on the track the Spirits and Flys are clearly beaten by the box standard Scalextric Lola. It may be a quirk of our track/layout but the other Scaleys like the Lister don't touch it.
Also recommend the Proslot Toyota.

 

Hey Munter,

If you want a different sort of car to compete against that pesky Slot.it Ferrari, a good base to start from might be a Sloter Lola.

They come without magnets as stock (which is how my Sloter Ferrari has stayed!), but you can get all sorts of strengths of aftermarket button magnet that'll fit straight in the holder in the Sloter chassis.

The Sloters are all fundamentally excellent cars so like I say, they may be a start to beat a magged Slot.it Ferrari. But they are sidewinders...

 

Thanks again for those suggestions.
Yes some of have the scalextric Lola and they go very well on our track.
I will persevere and let you know how I go!!
Thanks again John

 

Well I have reread everyones suggestions and they are thought provoking.I have fitted the yellow end bell motor and ......I have a faster car.This slot.it jag replaces the spirit reynard as my fastest car on my home track.At the club track last night my Jag was as quick as the new McLaren! I spun off a few times and he went up the wall a few times.On the straights it was neck and neck but I think the offset pod is still an advantage...guess I'll have to get one.As for the ferrari he was quicker than ever.
thanks again
John

 

I have an MRRC Toyota that I have not quite sorted out for non-magnet racing, but on two of our tracks it has been faster than most of the Slot.it cars. The Toyota has had the motor replaced with a Slot.it 21.5K one. I am racing against the guys that built four of the top five cars in the Race Across America.

 

Munter
I dont race mag cars, but am aware of them. One of the other factors that increase speed in that class is the hand controller, and you havent mentioned that. what controller are you using?, as I dont use magnets, I can only say that certain motors have more mag effect than others, SCX motors have more magnetic leakage than scalex, and the King motors have more than Ninco, for the SCX, I use a lower ohmage controller than for scalex, and the same for King over Ninco. All other comments are taken as correct, (as I dont race with magnets, I can't comment).

Regards

 

Thanks Zendragon
I am using a parma turbo with a 15 OHM resistor
cheers John

 

I hesitate to enter into such a knowledgeable discussion with such a basic angle, but you mentioned that both the cars that you are competing against are not in line motored cars. Do not overlook the sidewinder advantage over an inline.

The gear mesh can be set to very low drag, with only the bare minimum of contact driving the car. A crown gear just won't be as free spinning.

I've never run a angle gear set up, but I assume the same results could be achieved, using just a portion of the pinion on the spur gear.

Back when I was a kid and slot cars were new, in line motored cars were prevalent, as the in line motors fit most model cars better. Once sidewinder cars hit,and people saw identical parts beating their car, with the only difference being the placement of the motor, interest in realistic car bodies started to fade. Speed became the goal.

As a matter of fact, it could have been the fad just died out, but when the slight dedication to realism went away, so did the slot car fad. Even though the cars were only realistic enough for a child to imagine as connected to reality, once that imaginary connection to the real world of cars went away, the cars became less fun.

They became an end to their own slot car world, the circle was closed. No longer connected to the larger world of real cars through imagination, no longer a miniature car, they were electric racing things that went really, really fast.

Too fast for spectator interest, even if the machines had appeal, which they didn't, unless you liked the smell of electricity and geek sweat.

 

John - Shame this is a LMP class otherwise I'd suggest getting a lowly little yellow Carrera D Jaguar...talk about a "sleeper", this car is a rocket especially on raised rail tracks like Ninco/Scalextric Classic/SCX with it's dual magnets.

May I suggest trying a 25 Ohm resistor to give you a little bit more control. Adding a second magnet rearward would help...the relatively small magnets used in Slot.It's can't compare to the downforce from the wider bar magnets available. As to a motor change, a Fox II or ProSlot Euro may give you that extra zoom-zoom you're after.

Might have missed it, though not as important in magnet racing, the right tires do make a difference...have you tried some Slot.It P4's which are made for the more abrasive Ninco surface?

 

I've just received a Spirit Reynard 2KQ "sports version" (ref S200316). This is similar to the Fly Racers - NC2 motor and vacform interior - but it also has a removeable motor pod.

I gave the car a quick once-over, removing the magnet, trueing the rear tyres and running-in the motor. With the body screws fully tightened, and the pod screws backed off half a turn, I put it on my home track. Within 10 laps, I'd set new records on both lanes. After another 50 laps, I'd shaved 0.2 seconds off the previous fastest laps (about 8%).

I feel that there is more to come with different tyres or the addition of weight. There is no way that this car will roll over. It fails with a rapid and terminal slide, the tail swinging out to almost 90 degrees. The guide stays in the slot, but the angle is too great for the car to drive off again. If I can tame this behaviour, this car will be unbeatable.

 

@clockworks - if you're running on Scaley Sport or other smooth track, change the rear tyres for Ortmanns (#51a for Slot.it Audi or Porsche on rsslotracing.com) and you may well shave off a further 10-20% or so. It's one very quick car!

 

QUOTE (clockworks @ 20 Apr 2007, 09:28) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've just received a Spirit Reynard 2KQ "sports version" (ref S200316). This is similar to the Fly Racers - NC2 motor and vacform interior - but it also has a removeable motor pod.

I gave the car a quick once-over, removing the magnet, trueing the rear tyres and running-in the motor. With the body screws fully tightened, and the pod screws backed off half a turn, I put it on my home track. Within 10 laps, I'd set new records on both lanes. After another 50 laps, I'd shaved 0.2 seconds off the previous fastest laps (about 8%).

I feel that there is more to come with different tyres or the addition of weight. There is no way that this car will roll over. It fails with a rapid and terminal slide, the tail swinging out to almost 90 degrees. The guide stays in the slot, but the angle is too great for the car to drive off again. If I can tame this behaviour, this car will be unbeatable.

The car was unbeatable to the Greek LMP (well not strickly LMP, but Lemans Sports Cars generally) championship, until recently that was beaten by a Fly Evo3 Porsche GT1 with an Avant Slot Hunter motor in it.

Read the race report that the Reynard was beaten HERE

Also you can read a report from a previous race that was dominated by Spirit cars generally and was a Spirit Reynard 1-2 and Spirit Dallara 3 HERE

The Reynard handles exactly as you described, it never deslots, it fish tails when pushed, has excellent tires and a very good motor with lots of magnetic downforce. It's a car that is very hard to beat. BUT, it can be beaten, as you can see in the above reports...

 

QUOTE (V8Vantage @ 20 Apr 2007, 08:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>@clockworks - if you're running on Scaley Sport or other smooth track, change the rear tyres for Ortmanns (#51a for Slot.it Audi or Porsche on rsslotracing.com) and you may well shave off a further 10-20% or so. It's one very quick car!

Currently, we only run on Ninco (home and club). There may be a Scaley Classic club track opening in the area soon, and a wood track in the future. I don't want to be the first in the area to start a "tyre war" - most people are using box-stock tyres. If someone else starts using specialist rubber, I'll join in!

I was really surprised with the performance of this car, almost straight from the box. I've got the standard Spirit Reynard as well, and that took a lot of work (and a new set of wheels) to get close to the lap record.