Seeing as an overly deep guide flag could potentially bugger up the sensors, it might be worth making a setup plate that has a 5.5mm slot - if the wheels are not touching, or are touching and allow further vertical movement, then it shouldn't go on track until rectified. It only takes one dislodged sensor to seriously delay a race night.

P.S. I'm reliably informed that the correct setup for Slot.It GT40s around Panty, is two and a half metric pounds of blu-tack rammed into the nose/under bonnet area.

 

LOL - bang on Snurfen!

The Blue-Tak-Rammed nose serves 2 purposes:
1) Keeps the guide in the slot, especially on the two hairpins
2) Reinforces the nose so that when people shunt the flying banana from the rear at full chat and launch it over the barrier onto the floor - the nose remains intact

 

wouldn,t it be more prudent to have a scrute jig that takes into account the braid thickness, eg big mama to .025 super thin racing braid. that way you get no sensor damage and every one can run the braid they like and still have 5.5? of guide protruding. john

 

QUOTE (stoner @ 2 Jul 2013, 08:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>wouldn,t it be more prudent to have a scrute jig that takes into account the braid thickness, eg big mama to .025 super thin racing braid. that way you get no sensor damage and every one can run the braid they like and still have 5.5? of guide protruding. john

That makes a lot of sense *stoner*, & easy to set a scrute jig up too. Cheers mate- Rick ..........................

 

Quite an unusual story, it is much more common for cars with the guide blade too deep to go better when the blade is taken down to correct depth for the track.
Still cars and tracks aren't all the same and different tweaks work on different types of car and track.

 

Easiest way to set up a test would be to take a spare bit of Sport track and fix it to a block of MDF. A small flat headed screw screwed into the slot to a depth of 5.5mm towards one end and you have a simple push test. Push the car over the screw - if the guide fouls you can't run the car.

I have a spare track piece. So I'm on the case.

@300SLR - it's probably not unusual when you consider our track. We run 20m of Sport track with a 180 deg R1 hairpin, a composite hairpin (R2-R1-R2), some R2 esses , an R4 90 degreee turn at the end of a 4m straight, and an R2 turn with a 45 deg R1 kick in the middle.

All this was designed to unsettle cars and make each section of track a challenge in its own right. Setting the correct guide depth (not too deep and not too shallow) is probably pertinent to smooth wooden tracks, but a bumpy Sport layout with esses and hairpins is always going to cause the nose to lift so more guide depth = less deslots.

Anyway - knocking a sensor off the pit lane will A) pi$$ me off (coz it's my track not the club's) and

cost the club some dosh to replace the sensors. So 5.5mm penetration max is the rule.

The only concern I have with people running 0.5mm of braid in a 6mm blade is that braid wears down over time and the blade will creep deeper into the track. So if people push the limits we will have to test every car every week on the block before allowing it to race.

 

Considering how disruptive a knocked sensor would be, particularly at pit entrance - and given the amount of fettling members are now doing as they gain more racing and tuning experience, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to run them over your gauge before each evening's event.

Stoner - sorry mate, I didn't mean an absolute measurement, I meant a measurement as car the is presented for the event.