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Hi guys,

I've been away from slotcars and from this forum for a few months, but now I'm back. My first reaction : apparently not much activity these last months, I expected to see much more...
I'm attaching a few pics of my last realisation in the "RELIVERY YOUR VINTAGE SCALEX" series. My interest is to start from unexpensive vintage Scalex (or the like) and to give them a second life by redecorating them in a reasonably realistic way.
The old 1960-70 Scalextric models are relatively basic, often moulded in poor quality plastic, and the objective here is certainly not to make them precision models but rather to get them providing an instantaneous evocation of the real ones. The today technology which now enables us to design and print our decals ourselves (with some limitations however) - the most enjoyable part of the job - provides a lot of opportunities.

I purchased that Ford 3 l on eBay.fr earlier this month, in relatively good condition i.e. complete and nothing broken, in working order, for 15 euros. As most often the case for such old models (30+ years), the tyres have dried and need to be replaced if you want to get a good runner.

You will see more details and pics of it on my web page here : http://www.clubauto-beaunegcc.fr/slotcars/myoldscaleys.html

I'd like to take advantage of this post to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year, with a lot of new cars in this thread.

Jean-Pierre

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I resprayed a Scalex mini and redecalled it and it looks excellent - I've also got the same Revell 250 GTO as you, and agree with BWA minispeed that it's much better than the Fly offering (I think Pink Kar's body is better than Fly's). Making your own decals is surprisingly easy with transfer paper - I've only got a HP inkjet printer - but you can't tell, especially when you put it on 'photo print' quality. Transfer paper can be bought either clear or white backed (obviously it helps if you can cut decent circles for numbers, etc.) if you want to make your own and in the UK costs about ÂŁ18 for ten sheets of A4 which makes an awful lot of transfers for 1/32 scale cars. You can also make stripes etc. and this is an easy alternative to spraying them. I'd like to post photos but am too computer-illiterate to be able to do so.
 
Hi Racer Dude,

I purchase my decal paper at Crafty (a UK-based company, with an online shop). Their price is ÂŁ16 the ten A4 sheets (either clear or white background). For the time being, they even have a Christmas Shop offer : ÂŁ11.99 the 10 A4 sheets ...

Cheers,
 
Jean-Pierre, the cars on your website are very nicely presented. I particularly like the Aston Martin and the Matra. Very nice
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Hi Reissorg,
I too have not visited this thread fo a long time (over a year). I just wondered, do you find an outlet for your decal sheets? If you did, can you tell me where I can get them from please.
I have recently got into repainting having bought a couple of the Pioneer white kit Mustangs.

Thanks
 
A Scalextric F1 car that goes well and doesn't seem to mentioned is the Ligier, I was hoping to cadge it from my friend but her grandchildren love this car too so I'll have to buy one. Gerald L.
 
I probably haven't yet read all nine pages of this thread, so apologies if this angle has been mentioned before:
If you're into more than just cleaning up 1970s-early '80s Scalextric F1s, the brand's mid-life re-liveries can be good sources for models that may be becoming harder to find. Also, they shouldn't cost as much.
Formula One bodies that were re-liveried in toy-market guises included the C134 Renault RS01, the C138 Williams FW07B, the C120 Brabham BT44B and C139 BT49; the C136 Ferrari 312T3 and the sadly undersized C124 312T, the C127 McLaren M23, the C467 Tyrrell 018 and the C319 Ferrari 643. The C102 Wolf WR5 also came in various guises, mostly unattractive.
The re-liveried versions often had different motors, wheels and guides, so you won't always get an electro-mechanical replica of the original. Some of the body colours were the same; others were different. Many were sold only in sets and won't have boxes. The numbers stamped on the bodies can be non-existent or, well, let's say strange.
The list below is of the variants I'm aware of. Corrections and additions are welcome.
The old hands among you will know all this already, but someone may find it useful.
I'm not looking for any of these myself. The only Scalex car I "need" from that period, the Ligier JS11, sadly seems not to have been re-liveried. I used to have a genuine C137, but c'est disparu.

Scalextric re-liveries of Formula One cars

Notes: This list is just a guide. If you bid on-line for a model, establish yourself from photos, etc, that it is what you want.
The = symbol means only that it is believed to be a re-livery of such and such, not that it's the same car. Besides colours and decals, the motors, wheels and guides often changed.
The Pennzoil name was applied to two or perhaps three different bodies.

C147 Qudos (a set car) = C124 Ferrari 312T; yellow
C148 Kotzting (a set car) = C120 Brabham BT44B; blue
C200 Pennzoil Lola-Chev (a set car) = C319 Ferrari 643
C201 Havoline Lola-Ford = C319 Ferrari 643; black and white
C227 Qudos (like C147) = C124 Ferrari 312T
C229 Kotzting (like C148) = C120 Brabham BT44B
C232 Pennzoil Indy car = C134 Renault RS01; yellow
C233 Toshiba Indy car: = C134 Renault RS01
C311 Texaco 500 Indy car = C319 Ferrari 643; new in 1994
C350 Casio F2 = C138 Williams FW07B; white and blue
C350 Gold Star F1 = C136 Ferrari 312T3
C351 Exchange Services F1 = C134 Renault RS01
C351 Grand Prix International F3 = C138 Williams FW07B; blue and red
C352 Shell F3 = C139 Brabham BT49; black
C352 Watts Racing F1 = C134 Renault RS01; yellow with peelable red plastic
C353 Sieger F3 = C139 Brabham BT49; blue and yellow
C356 Track Ace = C124 Ferrari 312T; white; playing cards on nose
C357 Track Burner = C124 Ferrari 312T; flame emblem on nose
C358 Track Flash = C127 McLaren M23; lightning flash on nose; may be white and red.
C359 Track Champ = C127 McLaren M23; light and dark blue versions -
C377 Tyler Autos F3 = C136 Ferrari 312T3
C378 Graves Eng F2 = C134 Renault RS01
C385 Deserra Sports = C124 Ferrari 312T
C386 Stone Avionics = C124 Ferrari 312T
C430 Team Omega Securicor = C467 Tyrrell 018
C437 Hi-Tech (a set car) = C124 Ferrari 312T
C438 Automech (a set car) = C120 Brabham BT44B
C442 Team Pirelli = C120 Brabham BT44B; new 1994
C447 Pennzoil 500 Indy car, new 1994 = C319 Ferrari 643
C453 Team Dodger = C120 Brabham BT44B
C472 Dunlop F1, at least some stamped L5184 = C136 Ferrari 312T3; red plus yellow and black
C473 Panasonic F1 = C134 Renault RS01
C534 Pennzoil Indy car: may be based on the C467 Tyrrell 018

C2015 Brabham BT44B in blue and yellow: re-livery of C120: might be offered as a QXR Duckhams

Team Talbot car probably = C102 Wolf WR5

In one of his Scalextric books (1998), Roger Gillham described two cars as "modified" C467 Tyrrell 018s. Going by a photo of one, parts of the bodywork may be different
C194 Duracell Indy car; yellow and black
C630 Eurosport Indy car
He relates the C534 Pennzoil Indy car to this too.

At least two cars sold as F1 models are only re-liveries of others, not originals:
C184 Minardi = C319 Ferrari 643; dark blue and yellow
C485 Dallara = C319 Ferrari 643; red
 
I love this thread. I've been detailing a few myself. Not total repaints though. If you are not repainting the whole shell what primer would be best for localised detailing, Humbrol primer, or some single pack etch primer?
 
Renault RS01: Yesterday I began playing with a C352 "Watts Racing F1" that I want to turn into a Renault RS01 and realised it sits very nose-up. I also have a C472 "Dunlop F1", which uses the C136 Ferrari 312T3 body, and I see that it's almost as bad.
The problem is at the guide mount. I used to have the original C134 Renault but forget whether it had the same problem. From one of Roger Gillham's books, it seems the guides themselves were only slightly different in the reliveried version.
The nearest I have to these in original form is a Brabham BT49, which sits quite well.
I've searched on SlotForum and found no reference to this, except for a photo of a Scalex Renault which is unclear but looks nose-up.
Have others found this problem and what have you done about it? Ground down the guide mount, or fitted a different guide?
Rob J
 
Rob....

I cut off the guide mount flush with the bottom of the chassis, and fit either the standard NSR Guide or the Slot.it universal screw guide, both with Slot.it racing braid. This drops the front ride height, but you need to remove the front axle/wheels, then sit the car on the track to ensure the guide fits as deep as possible into the guide slot and position the front axle. I run it in a 1/8" brass tube which when positioned can be secured with JB Weld or similar....

Regards

Alan
 
I might be talking complete rubbish here but Dave Wisdom ran a Renault at a Wolves practice day last year (it went superbly), it was a car he had built for the Pendle Club F1 class and he had the guide post break without warning or without any impact that may have caused it to fail. I'm just wondering if modifying the post can weaken it?

David
 
Yes David, it was a bit strange that happening, but in hindsight I guess modifying the guidepost definitely contributed to the breakage. I repaired the damage using 2 part epoxy resin, which has well and truly solved the problem and I'm pleased to say the Renault is alive and well currently competing in the NERCS F1 Championship.

Dave
 
Hi friends,

Hope you all are well.

Having been successful in purchasing a Scalextric Watson Offenhauser (ref C79) on eBay.uk two months ago, I did start some restoration work, with the idea to try to replicate the winner of 1964 Indy 500 Miles in the hands of A.J. Foyt. You will find the details on my site http://www.reissorg.com/"" target="_blank">here</a>.

After some preliminary thinking, I decided to go for an "all decal" solution, requiring no paint job over the white body shell. Designing and finalizing the decals for the typical Indy front red/Blue decoration is not that easy, but after a lot of trials I came up with a preliminary prototype version (pics below). Before I finalize the final version, I'll appreciate getting your comments end suggestions on this.

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QUOTE (BEEJAY7 @ 8 Apr 2011, 16:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Very nice Jean Peirre but I think decals for this car are already available here:-

Decals

Regards

Alan

Many thanks Alan for your appreciation but also for the info : I didn't absolutely know about INDYCALS, and I just discovered their website from you post. It's now in my favorites. They are doing really a superb job. Next time, I will check beforehand.

That said, designing and sizing home-made decals for my own 1/32 cars (mostly Scalextric) is something I do like to do, as it is extremely rewarding, a very enjoyable hobby.

Regards,
Jean-Pierre
 
Okay, here are my entries on the thread - thanks to Jean Pierre's decals!

My Shadow DN1a needed a bit of filler...

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But turned out nicely, using a Sharpie to blur the line between the paint and decals...

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The BRM is deceptively simple. Anything that could go wrong did, but she's a racer...

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All three of my Seventies cars, for our classic F1 series at Farnham:

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And the next one is making progress...

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