... I nearly forgot, here's a reference photo to show what it will eventually look like:

The real car now has a roof rack, which I hope I can add eventually:

 

Fabulous job

Looks like it it printed in PLA. If so it will be very brittle and I would be worried about the very thin pillars. You could consider epoxying some reinforcing wire up the inside of the pillars to give it a little strength just in case one of your hill descents gets out of control

The copper earth wire in lighting cables is about the right thickness and it's malleable but rigid enough to add strength.

It would be a shame to damage such a nice model and it would equally be a shame to feel you have to hold back on testing its limits.

Expect lots of PMs asking for a copy...

By the way - what specific model printer did you use?

 

I've used PLA/PHA from ColorFabb. It has more strength than just PLA but I agree the thin pillars are vulnerable. Thanks for the tips.
I plan to use a thin layer of Milliput to help smooth out the print lines and I hope that will add a bit of strength as well.

The print needs a few tweeks to better fit the chassis. Once I have it perfected I'll happily share the model.

I have an Ultimaker 2.

 

Looks great, what do you intend to use for the glass?

 

Vac form clear PETG.

I plan to print the mold to fit and smooth it. That bit is yet to be tested

The headlamp glass will also be vac formed.

 

Impressive!

Once you start to make your own cars it gets very addictive, that Discovery is an excellent start and I like the fact you've put an appropriate chassis underneath it.

 

QUOTE (choc-ice @ 11 Aug 2015, 17:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>... I like the fact you've put an appropriate chassis underneath it.
I am not surprised you appreciate the chassis.

Thank you for the encouragement. I already have another Land Rover planned in my head.

I tried to do a video but my phone struggles. As you have done so many fun takes, any tips?

 

an awesome and ambitious project that is coming together beautifully. I'm surprised you neglected to have an opening bonnet though...after all , that's the usual pose for a land rover!!

 

I use my old cameraphone for most shots, it's got a slow-mo setting which I then speed up a little in editing.

For the in car filming I use an 808 keychain camera, they're about £18 on ebay, I think mine is a #16 (it's like the version of the camera). Make sure you get an SD card that's high speed so the camera can write to it easily.

What's your next one? I had a real 109 Stage 1 V8 a few years ago and last year I got a 110 County station wagon 200 Tdi. I'd have another in a heartbeat if they weren't so expensive!

 

QUOTE (gordonzz @ 11 Aug 2015, 18:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>... I'm surprised you neglected to have an opening bonnet though...after all , that's the usual pose for a land rover!!

I bet you thought you were being clever

Two can play at that game

...

I printed it as separate parts to minimise the amount of support structure I needed.
I haven't stuck the bonnet down yet, so I was able to pose the above photo, just for you

 

QUOTE (choc-ice @ 11 Aug 2015, 19:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I use my old cameraphone ...
Thanks for the tips. I used the default settings, I might fiddle and see if I can get something usable from my phone. Failing that I may just buy your suggestion at only £18 I can't go wrong.

QUOTE (choc-ice @ 11 Aug 2015, 19:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What's your next one? ... last year I got a 110 County station wagon 200 Tdi. I'd have another in a heartbeat if they weren't so expensive!
If it's not obvious I'm a bit of a Landy fan, so there is no alternative for me. They are surprisingly low cost to run because of all the after-market spares. That is spoilt a bit if you suck in water while wading and bend two con rods!

I have a lot of work yet to finish my slot car Discovery but the plan for the next one is to make a copy of my friends Defender 90, Joe:

I am hoping he settles on a new colour before I get round to painting it, otherwise it will be the mixed blue and red in the photo.

 

QUOTE (JCB @ 11 Aug 2015, 19:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I bet you thought you were being clever

Two can play at that game

...

I printed it as separate parts to minimise the amount of support structure I needed.
I haven't stuck the bonnet down yet, so I was able to pose the above photo, just for you

awww bless , you did that just for little ol' me?!

all it needs now is a driver figure leaning in , scratching his "nylocs" trying to figure out what went twang in true "Solihull bonnets up club" style!

(I am allowed to extract the wee as I have owned three of the things ('54 s11 , '72 lightweight air transportable & a '76 s111 diesel)...and a classic range rover over the years)

 

aside from joshing with you , have you thought about a coat of high build primer to help smooth the shell out? I'd mask off the finer details first though.

 

I'm impressed by how many Landies you've had.
Before I bought my first one someone said to me, "do I like driving them or repairing them?"
That's why I've had three Discoveries so far and no vintage series vehicles.

I thought about the thick primer but I've never used it so was not sure how suitable it would be.
I'll have to get some and try it out.

Will any make do or can you suggest one?

 

not used any for years but I would think any hairysole high build would be ok?

 

I've ordered some High Build primer. I hope it arrives by the weekend, I'm keen to try it out.

Thanks for the tip.

 

if it works it was a fabulous idea , if it doesn't it was only a suggestion....

. I'd almost be tempted to mask off alternate panels , including over shut lines , to save obliterating too much details , then once dry do the next lot , assuming you have time or patience to do so? other than that you may have to scribe them in again? hope it goes well.

 

I do have the patience.

Thanks for the tips. I was going to try to get a bit of paper in the shut lines but masking alternate panels is a much more reliable solution.

The advantage with having printed it myself is if it goes wrong I can print another and try again

 

Personally I wouldn't use a spray, it goes everywhere and is tricky to control.
I have tried filler primer and was not impressed with the results.
The key here is to fill the grooves, and only the ones you want.
I would first try a fairly runny putty of some sort and spread it with a spatula (a bit like a plasterer would fill a crack in a wall).
Diluted modelling putty (whatever brand you have) or look for something water soluble in a craft shop/website.
Easy to control where you place it, and easy to sand.

It's a nice body, having come this far, it would be a shame to spoil it.

Joel

 

I am glad to know that you'd suggest the same as my first thought. I am going to experiment at the weekend if the paint arrives.

To try:
- Spray on the high build
- Brush the high build on from a separate pot
- Use a Milliput wash

I have most experience using Milliput and I am fairly confident I can get that to work.

 

Hi, John. That's a very interesting project and a great choice of chassis. Really good to see what you achieved with a domestic printer and will watch to see how you make the finishing work. It's a difficult process and takes us much time! But, it is very satisfying when you see 'your car' take shape.

 

I was reading with interest your thread the other day.

I've seen the results from commercial printers and they start off with a better finish.
I've also had a good look at some samples finished with what I call 'stone tumbler' polishing but those samples would not have been good enough for a slot car.

Your photos show a much higher quality surface. I assume you have an automated finisher of some sort.

Our farrier is also a blacksmith and has a metal polishing machine, which is basically the same vibrating rocks in a tub.
He's going to put a test piece in there for me one day but we don't hold out much hope that the PLA will survive and absolutely certain the fragile pillars of a model car would not!

 

If you replaced the rocks with sand I would expect a PLA shell to survive.

I remember about 40 years ago my mother making polished semi precious stones into jewellery. The rough stones were tumbled in sand for hours, sometimes days, and came out with a glass-like surface finish. Tumbling a bodyshell would probably be too rough but vibrating in sand might work.

 

Could I ask a question about the 1:1 vehicle?

Just curious as to why you'd have a number plate on the roof-rack... is it in case you get pulled over while navigating really really deep mud?

Love both your Discos, John - the smaller one's looking good already - it's clear you've done a lot of thought and work into it, and it'll be great to see more as it progresses and once it's all finished... I assume you'll be adding the roof-rack, bull bars and snorkel, too?

 

The number plate on the roof is because I've lost one from the bumper when wading in deep water. Lots of fun

In fact the one on the roof is the one I lost. I ordered a new one immediately but when the flood had gone down I was able to find the original.

The roof bars are so tiny I am struggling to clean them up without damage. I will probably have to add them a fraction over thick for them to survive.
That makes me think that the roof rack may be a bit ambitious in plastic.
I'll probably just use some wire but it will be an addition after I've finished the main paint job.

The 3D model now has a snorkel. I tried to print it out last night but I'm nearing the end of the filament spool and it got stuck while feeding.
The print takes about 8 hours so I'm usually asleep while its going. Hopefully I'll sort out the feeding issue and print it overnight tonight.