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Discussion starter · #82 ·
QUOTE (gordonzz @ 26 Jan 2016, 10:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>ouch!
Yes, that about sums it up
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Sometime off-roading has expensive consequences!
 
Discussion starter · #83 ·
In go the rear lights.

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The lights are too small for my 3D printer. Although that's how the basic shape was created, they needed lots of cutting and filing to get them to fit together!

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They still need some finishing to make them gloss. I'll probably use a thin coat of clear resin.
 
The windows went in last night. I'm now waiting for the canopy glue to dry.

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These are all fixed from the inside. If I was starting again, I would probably design the body with a lip, like the real car and fix most of the windows from the outside to attempt to get a sharper joint to the pillars.

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Discussion starter · #85 ·
I added the number plates this weekend.

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I am very pleased with the laser printer decals. I found them easy to print and easy to apply.

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The white cut edge, just visible on the rear number plate, is a little disappointing but buying a ÂŁ2,000 printer that can print white on transparent sheets would be a bit overkill for the rare times I would need it. Even more crazy than buying the 3D printer
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The white edge was even more visible against black, so for that reason and my doubt I could cut a smooth line meant I have decided not to apply the window frame edges that I had designed.

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I am very happy with the number plates and I'll adapt future designs to take in to account the white edge. I might try some transparent sheets for where I don't need white.
 
This weekend I've added the frame for the rear door quarter glass.

First a reference picture of the real car as a reminder of the detail.

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It's very thin so I've used 1mm nail tape with some gloss varnish to hold it in place.

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I also used the nail tape for the repeater indicator.

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While I had all the bits out I've mocked up the finished car.

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Loving this, John - and, as I said on your FB posts, I really like the final touches you've been adding; number plates add to the realism, and using nail tape for the quarter glass and so on is a great idea.

More than that, I just find it really impressive how you've persevered with this project to produce this great result. Sure, not every stage worked out first time - I guess scratch-builds rarely do - but you took a step back from any problem you encountered, looked at it, re-worked it, and learnt from it. I bet it's been hard work, but a lot of fun along the way! As someone who's become involved with 3D applications for slot building and racing, I often hear people commenting about how cheap and easy 3D printing makes this kind of project... you've shown us during the various stages of your own project that, while that kind of assumption is not usually the case, the result is definitely worth the investment and effort.
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On a personal note, and as a bit of a Landy/Disco fan, I'd love to see your creation for myself - if you're visiting the UKSF this year, please bring it with!
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
QUOTE (jay-bl @ 28 Feb 2016, 23:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Loving this, John...
On a personal note, and as a bit of a Landy/Disco fan, I'd love to see your creation for myself - if you're visiting the UKSF this year, please bring it with!
Thank you for all the kind words.

I don't know if I can get to the slot car festival. It is my 20th wedding anniversary that week.
If I do go, I will bring the model with me. Do you think I'd get away with saying the UKSF is on the way back from a holiday?
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I have enjoyed making the model Discovery. Just a few final touches to go.

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I soldered in the SSD chip last night, so the chassis is ready and tested.

QUOTE (jay-bl @ 28 Feb 2016, 23:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>... I just find it really impressive how you've persevered with this project to produce this great result. Sure, not every stage worked out first time - I guess scratch-builds rarely do...

There has been some extra work because it has been over 30 years since I last painted a miniature or built any model. I have had to learn again the skills I had as a teenager. Some of the tools are the same, some 30 year old paints and brushes but new needle files and blades! I have now bought some new paint but only because I needed different colours.
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I have had to learn a few techniques to deal with the 3D print. Mainly how to finish it.

I am still experimenting with the best way to smooth the bodywork. Although I have one acceptable but not perfect bonnet I am now working on more trials using the bonnet as it is an easy print. After lots of testing I am completely convinced that the rattle can car spray paint raises the layers of the PLA/PHA plastic!

I can smooth the surface using resin and high build primer then sand down so it is completely smooth. Even after the primer has had a week to dry, adding the top coat makes the print lines raise so I can easily see and feel them!
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I have some acrylic primer and paint to try but my compressor is too noisy (full size car workshop type) to use in the evenings after work, so I have to find some time at a weekend for that experiment.
This is all because I'm hooked and have a short but growing list of other cars I want to make.
I want to finish the Discovery first.
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One of my work mates years ago who made a lot of model kit planes had the same problem as you regarding a full size compressor. His remedy was to pump up a car spare wheel and use the compressed air from that to feed his model spray gun in the evenings.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
QUOTE (Wobble @ 29 Feb 2016, 11:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>... a full size compressor. His remedy was to pump up a car spare wheel and use the compressed air from that to feed his model spray gun in the evenings.
An excellent tip.
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I have a full set of spare wheels and tyres for the Discovery. I'll have to get an adapter for the valve.
 
QUOTE (JCB @ 29 Feb 2016, 09:03) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am still experimenting with the best way to smooth the bodywork. Although I have one acceptable but not perfect bonnet I am now working on more trials using the bonnet as it is an easy print. After lots of testing I am completely convinced that the rattle can car spray paint raises the layers of the PLA/PHA plastic!

I can smooth the surface using resin and high build primer then sand down so it is completely smooth. Even after the primer has had a week to dry, adding the top coat makes the print lines raise so I can easily see and feel them!
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just a thought...now that I'm a 5 minute expert...have you considered taking a silicon mould of your printed master and knocking out a resin copy? I know you have already put a lot of hours into your printed shell but you could work the resin one up and not worry about the print lines coming through again.
 
That's excellent progress. I've mostly stopped posting every step of my designs because a) Most people have seen it before, and
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It's pretty harrowing to go through it again!

You should be very proud of what you've done, the next one will be a little easier!
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
QUOTE (gordonzz @ 1 Mar 2016, 20:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...now that I'm a 5 minute expert...have you considered taking a silicon mould ...
Your 5 minutes was well spent.

I have thought about using it as a mould and I know others do that. I've never done any resin moulding myself and I did read up on it for the very reason you are suggesting but it didn't sound that easy and needed different post processing to complete.

As other things I print also need finishing, I decided I would prefer to find an efficient way to clean up the surface. If I can't, then the resin is an option.
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
QUOTE (choc-ice @ 1 Mar 2016, 20:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>... the next one will be a little easier!
That's the plan
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I keep a record the first time I do something as a reminder to myself. I can look back on my own tutorial.
Mainly it's all on my blog, the posts here are usually a cut down version with the bits I think will interest people.
 
It's finished.

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An off-road shot to show where it is happiest... not an uncommon location with my driving
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You can download the blend and STL 3D print files from my blog.

The full size car for comparison:
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that is looking awesome , I bet you are properly chuffed!
 
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