Was, while not familiar with the hookups on Scaley track, I will offer the following.

The simplest solution is to use one standard supply per lane. There will then be no "crosstalk" when one car slows or comes off, no surging on the other lane. If the track is permanent, it would also be a good idea to add one or two additional power feed points around the circuit. A "feed" point is just a set of jumper wires from the main terminal track, connected to another remote point on the track. Each track joint represents a loss of power so the longer the track, the more jumpers you need. Your track is 15m, so I would recommend 2 extra feed points, resulting in a power feed every 5m or so.

If you are serious about your racing, or want to run higher power motors, then you may wish to look at getting a proper regulated DC power supply to replace the set units. Extra power "feed" points are still recommended though.

I'm sure others will give you more specifics for your situation, or at least some good links, but this is a general answer.

 

There are 2 sites with a lot of info that I know of off the top of my head.

Power supplys the Wise way

More power supplies from the Wise one

Power Tap made easy

Track power supplies from Prof. Motor

How to wire your track

that should get you started

 

Let me show you a couple of ideas:

One power supply per lane: fully agree! that's definitively 50% of the solution. I recommend a regulated P.S., 9-16v approx., 2 Ampers (1:32) or 5 (maybe more) Ampers (1:24). You can buy a "special" slot P.S. such as Kelvin or DS, as well as any stabilized, shortcircuit-protected for sale in electronics shops. You can also use, for example, a fixed-24V PS and build a voltage regulator with one chip, one resitor and one pot (3 components -esay, isn't it?-). If you want a detailed info just let me know -or you can also use a web translator no see where it is, in SLot Adictos.

Second: if cars slow down half the way, power lines are needed and, of course, we dont want to pay such amount to Scaley or SCX for just a couple of wires

. Let's mak'em. Two coices are available: star-connection and ring-connection.
Imagine a O-shape circuit:
Star-connection: Starting from the axis (center) in the "O", where the controller connection is, let's wire four cables: one should be connected at 12, othe at 3, thir at 6 and last at 9; that is aprox. every 25% of the track, creating a 4-points "star" (or 6 points, or...). In your case, as Fergy says, I agree again with two or three wires.
Ring-connection: This is the system used for permanent tracks: they connect every track (or every two tracks) with wire, creating an electric "ring" beneath the track.
Of course, before this, clean every male-female electric connection of every track with sandpaper or anything to create less resistive likns.

Hope this few lines help you.

 

I'd try and get hold of another transformer, then use one handset per transformer. Then you have 12(?)V per lane, constant.

 

I got an awesome 13.8v 7amp (!) supply for my RC charger, I occasionally use it to power slot cars and they FLY! With 7 amps you won't find a motor that won't run on it (1/32 that is... (nobody be a smartass, and come up with some wing car motor...)). It's great and it was only £45. It's made by Graupner, and they also make 10 amp versions.

Lotus

 

My 95ft plexytrack home circuit is powered by 2 "Scalextric Sport" transformers (1 for each lane), with 3 power boost connecters (1 every quarter), and it run's beautifully. Just make sure that there is good contact between each track piece as you can loose power that way.

M

 

Thanks for all the help guys.

Was

 

Not to be argumentative, but simply to look at different angles . . .
Certainly, a separate power supply per lane would be an improvement over the weedy units supplied as standard with sets, but a small snag remains. It is that, due to production variations, it can't be guaranteed that each of the PSUs will produce exactly the same power. This might not matter to you, but is worth bearing in mind.

That snag disappears if a single power supply is used for all lanes, so long as it has the amperage to supply all the cars. So my preferred solution is a single regulated supply of about 20 amps, preferably variable voltage, which will cover just about any need up to four and possibly even six lanes. It also reduces the need for mains sockets and a certain amount of supply cabling.

 

I recently swapped from 4 wall wart things to a single 3-15v 30A regulated PS. There was a definite difference between the four individual supplies that is eliminated by the single good quality unit. And being variable voltage, I can turn it down for the kids to use. Probably the single most expensive thing on the track but well worth it in my opinion because:
1. greater consistency
2. greater flexibility
3. safer and
4. neater than 4 units on a power board.

and you can run accessory lighting lap timing peripherals, etc... from it too!

Cheers

Steve

 

Would that 7amp transformer of Lotus's burn out a scaley power track piece (2 lane)? Presumably 1 of those would be better than 2 scaley transformers

 

If wired correctly, a single regulated power supply should be all you really need.

I have a Carrera 2 lane, just less than 100 feet of track with 12 power taps set in. The cars run smooth as glass. My unit is a Zurich regulated and variable up to 15V, 0-25 amp (30 surge). Bought it new for less than $100 and they are available for around $120, even less, much less on ebay.

You can run 2 power supplies if you want but on a track that is less than 100 feet, it's overkill. Like hunting squirrel with a 12 ga shotgun. The return is not that much.

 

Worth knowing, my Graupner unit is about 150mm x 50mm x 100mm. So it will fit into your house, unlike the one above...

Also the Graupner is always 13.8v 7amps everytime, all the time... trust me

Lotus

 

QUOTE (lotus03 @ 18 Apr 2004, 12:05)Worth knowing, my Graupner unit is about 150mm x 50mm x 100mm. So it will fit into your house, unlike the one above...

Also the Graupner is always 13.8v 7amps everytime, all the time... trust me

Lotus
What do you mean fit in your house Lotus...this unit I have is very compact for what it yeilds...

W: 7" H: 6-1/2" D: 9-3/4" WT: 18.5

 

No wonder I need a bigger house! My unit (4 independent 0-24V, 6A outputs, plus 5V and 28V outputs) measures:

W: 12" H: 12" D: 17" WT: 40 pounds

Good for building up the biceps!

Brian's unit looks pretty good to me.