Isopon P.38. This stuff's excellent, for repair, filling pinholes, rebuilding missing bits, reinforcing mounting posts, adding on to or reprofiling resin shells. It sticks, it's strong, easy to roughly cut to shape when just gone hard, and will file and sand to a fine finish once fully set -

Davids ISOPON P38 Easy-Sand Body Filler - 250ml | Halfords UK

Shop the latest Davids ISOPON P38 Easy Sand polyester filler a chemical paste used for the filling of holes at Halfords UK

www.halfords.com

To repair your crack, roughen up and clean the shell on the inside around and over the crack, then layer it up with a good dollop of P.38 (be generous). When the inside's set, if you need to work the crack on the outside, cut the crack open a bit and fill it with P.38 again, and finish.

 

P38 is very good at filling
I always use super glue on cracks that go through the resin shell
Open up then add glue when set finish with P38
Experience tells me it gives a result stronger than the original

 

Whenever I sand or saw resin bodies I collect the dust and use it with superglue as an extremely strong filler and bonder. I add superglue to the area that needs to be filled or bonded and then sprinkle the resin dust onto the glue. It ends up as strong if not stronger than the original resin and can be cut or filed.

 

I am surprised that you haven’t had success with superglue.
I use the cheap runny stuff in the small tubes.
The glue should wick into the crack after a dribble and a wiggle of the two body parts.

 

Superglue...then sprinkle bicarb powder onto the wet glue...it'll set like concrete.

 

You want the glue in the crack/split ... forget about the surfaces around or near the crack

 

Great advice folks!..........yes, I was surprised that superglue on it's own didn't work, and I did ensure that it oozed well into the crack. Will try the P38 car body filler first as I have some lurking in the garage!

 

Sometimes, when the body cracks, it also twists so the broken surfaces don’t quite meet any more. Liquid superglue is hopeless at bridging even tiny gaps; that’s why gel or filler work better.
Mike

 

Correct Mike, the runny superglue is not a filler but if the surfaces match closely then it will make a very strong bond

 

Another option when using runny superglue is to also use it with toilet paper or paper towel layered on behind the crack, 3-4 layers should be enough.

 

Some superglues aren't all that super. Have you tried Bond It? I find it rarely fails.

Watch for date on base though - on FleeceBay I was sent stuff 2.5 years out of date. Manufacturer states use within 12 months (probably less effective after).

 

Superglue and a thin slice of polystyrene. Repeat if necessary.

 

Do you trust superglue?
It seems many do not.

 

Do you trust superglue?
It seems many do not.

Yes...but not on lead as shoe goo is better.

 

I completely stopped using superglue a long time ago. I couldn't unscrew the top from a tube with my fingers, so used my teeth instead. What could possibly go wrong? Yep, I discharged the whole lot into my mouth, and had to spend a couple of hours trying to get rid of it.

This is purely and simply because I'm an idiot, of course.

 

Darwin Awards comes to mind...

 

I agree, but that was one of my least damaging episodes.

 

and I thought modern car owners manuals with a warning not to drink the contents of the battery was for younger generations with no sense

 

A brilliant idea for a thread, Daniel. What could possibly go wrong? Hmm... the short answer to the question is '"everything."

With slot car building, I am convinced that anything that can go wrong always will go wrong, but why? Why do we make mistakes? Has anyone built a perfectly flawless slot car without making mistakes? Or is Dr Sodt always lurking in the background, ready to trip us up?